Dccv replaced, but now super hot air!
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Strange. I'd guess the mechanic didn't connect the plug or maybe something happened that blew the fuse or damaged the climate control module. There's a fuse that I think powers the climate control and A/C clutch, #10 underhood if I recall right, but do check your manual. I would check the connector and fuses and if that isn't it then take it back and see what the mechanic says.
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Have no idea what the car is.....but 3.0L 2003 and sub refresh is easy to spot the plug...and relatively easy to get to, though I'll stop short of saying easy to unplug....
I suspect John is right and the old valve had one side stuck closed (the cold side) and blew the control board....New valve likely works fine but due to control board damage isn't being commanded to close either side.
I suspect John is right and the old valve had one side stuck closed (the cold side) and blew the control board....New valve likely works fine but due to control board damage isn't being commanded to close either side.
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Thanks guys. Sorry for reference its a 2005 STR. I will have my mechanic (a friend of mine) pull the CCM and see if we can see anything visible that would indicate a burnt out circuit. Is this something easy enough for a general tech to fix, or would the board have to be sent out somewhere?
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Looking at the circuit board you should be able to see the burnt spot (s). Solder a wire onto it so that it re-connects (bypasses) the burnt part. I found a write-up with pics somewhere, but don't remember where. Adding a fuse would be a good idea and when I get into mine I'll see about doing that.
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Ok so I pulled the DCCM, a number of burned circuits. Took it to an electrical place that does specialized repair such as this. The guy fixed it and tested it, all looked good. I replaced it in the car, still super hot air from the drivers side, but coolish air on the passenger side (I had the AC on and temp set to 63). Any suggestions from here?
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Tried it at the coldest setting? Mine reads lo at coldest (and I think ignores the temp sensors) don't know on yours.
When you first fire up the engine before it warms up do you get cold A/C? If not then the A/C isn't doing it's job, altho you still have another issue as well, but knowing if the A/C is good will help diagnose.
I doubt he could fully test the functionality of the module and just confirmed that he fixed the burnt circuits so it could still have a problem. There's also a few temperature sensors in the car that could be lying to the module, but I don't know details about finding and testing those. You could put power straight to the valve, if that gives you cold then you know the valve and A/C are doing their jobs for sure and that you have some other problem.
When you first fire up the engine before it warms up do you get cold A/C? If not then the A/C isn't doing it's job, altho you still have another issue as well, but knowing if the A/C is good will help diagnose.
I doubt he could fully test the functionality of the module and just confirmed that he fixed the burnt circuits so it could still have a problem. There's also a few temperature sensors in the car that could be lying to the module, but I don't know details about finding and testing those. You could put power straight to the valve, if that gives you cold then you know the valve and A/C are doing their jobs for sure and that you have some other problem.
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Ok so I fired up the car with the setting on LO. Blowing cold air right off the bat well and continues to blow cold air. As soon I start turning the temperature up, that's when it starts getting wonky with the hot air on one side and cool on the other.
I'm guessing it is indeed the module in that case? And if he can't repair it further, the only option would be buying a new board?
I'm guessing it is indeed the module in that case? And if he can't repair it further, the only option would be buying a new board?
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On the DCCV connector there are three pins; the center pin is fed positive power full time and the two outer pins are fed negative by the module to control one side or the other. You can run a wire to the center pin with + and touch either outer pin with a - wire to activate it. You'll hear it click open if it's working and I believe the power draw should be about .6amps or maybe less if you have a meter to test it with. On my valve one side was good and the other side was shorted pulling about 10 amps. I have a module to repair but haven't pulled it yet, hoping for the best.
If you don't mind, gimme a quick rundown for pulling the console and stuff to get to the module. I don't wanna assume I can yank something out that might be screwed in place or needs to be pulled a certain way. I have a touch screen Nav system; anything special to know before pulling it out?
Edit; I just read that the module for a Nav equipped car is behind the glove box and not behind the touch screen unit, is this correct? Any special tricks to get at it?
If you don't mind, gimme a quick rundown for pulling the console and stuff to get to the module. I don't wanna assume I can yank something out that might be screwed in place or needs to be pulled a certain way. I have a touch screen Nav system; anything special to know before pulling it out?
Edit; I just read that the module for a Nav equipped car is behind the glove box and not behind the touch screen unit, is this correct? Any special tricks to get at it?
Last edited by '05 STR; 10-18-2015 at 11:30 PM.