Hello

Post 'em up

I'm loving them being stranded!! (But sorry you were.)

 

Has anyone in this saga ACTUALLY swapped the battery -- in real life? Or has everyone just argued about it? That would be the FIRST thing I would do, taking me less than 5 minutes and using one spanner. Or I might strap another battery across the existing one with jump leads being super-careful to observe polarity. Making sure the extra battery doesn't roll around in the boot, propping it up with concrete blocks. Then I'd see what happened. It might work, it might not -- there's no guarantee, it's the principle of eliminating possiblities, starting with the EASIEST first.
Leedsman.

 

Well, read the thread and it appears the 2 entities involved in the warranty are arguing, so no. As it's warranty the owner isn't involved in the diagnosis.

 

Dealer said the error code was P0782.

 

Just informed by the dealer that the warranty company has agreed to a new transmission. After they put it in I am going to ask them to check the charging system and battery.

I looked up the P0782 error code and based on what it said; I would have expected to notice some serious driving problems - slipping, jerks, and lurches. It appeared to drive normally. Any thoughts on this?

 

Yea, I think we will all agree that a battery or electrical short is probably the culprit. I actually don't know of the dealer in Warren's reputation. Have you taken the car to Jaguar Cleveland, in Solon, yet? That is who I used when I had mine. I'd just sit back and let the warranty rep and dealer sort the car out at this point.. Unless they start asking you for money... After it's fixed I would then schedule an inspection with the guys at Jaguar Cleveland.. They will go over it and see if there is anything that the other dealer did wrong or missed. It costs around $100 but is worth it for their time.. Let them know Jeff Osworth sent you... Even though I bought a Chrysler, I still stop in and say Hi... They are very DIY friendly and will talk you through the stuff you want to do yourself.. BTW they love Dunkin Donuts.. LOL

 

There's TSB JTB00072 which looks to be for that. It's effectively a software reflash of the TCM to cure a false flagging of a code. The TSB may be on here (pretty sure it is), but whether you want to tell them is up to you!!

(It may well need a battery as well.)

 

About 3 weeks after I bought the car (December '10), I was experiencing the "lurch" problem and the Jag dealer did a reflash. Is it likely the reflash would have included the update related to the TSB you mentioned or would they specifically have to add it?

 

So long as they did it right it would be a cure for both.

 

I have been experiencing eletrical woes, that cause all of the gauges to sweep multiple times and then zero out and start working. Most times this happens my low oil pressure light remains on, occassionally the fault display says I have a CATS System fault. This fault will remain, until I shut the car down and restart. Occassionally, it takes multiple restarts for it to go back to normal. Recently, it continued to fault and gauges continued to sweep for approx. 1 min and the indicator in the center of the dash, just behind the windshield/screen was blinking very fast. It then started blinking once pause and then 6 times, it repeated that pattern several times and then stopped. When it stopped, the gauges stopped sweeping and reset.
A week or two later, I was on the expressway driving home at night and gauges started sweeping, interior dash lights blinked on and off, and the headlights shutoff a couple of times. That continued for approx. 15 minutes until I got home as it was late at night and was fearful that if I shutdown vehicle it may not restart. The electrical storm continues to happen as recently as today with less severity. I recently discovered water was leaking into my trunk and thought that was contributing to this problem. I have dried it and monitored it. And it continues to happen. I pulled battery and had it checked at AutoZone and was told that it was fine. Actually gave me a printout, that stated approx the AMPs listed on the battery. Any thoughts. Almost ready to give up on the car, cant trust it to allow my wife to drive.

 

"Almost ready to give up on the car, cant trust it to allow my wife to drive".

My post of 5/16/11 -- has anyone actually swapped the battery, or clipped another across it with jump leads? Or even, God forbid, clipped a big capacitor across it?

It is probable that a commercial battery tester cannot indicate subtle battery CONDITIONS (not faults/wear), such as very high-speed surge currents demanded by microprocessors, or resonance effects in the 2MHz region and above.

Yet again, there's no guarantee this procedure will work, but it's an easy & quick check, needing no special skill or talent.

Leedsman.

 

Water in the trunk is very bad. Use Search to see what others suffered and did.

You will need it to be 100% dried out and to be lucky (that it has done no harm).

Could be worth disconnecting battery then removing each trunk fuse and reinserting it. Same with the relays. Finally reconnect battery. If faults persist read on.

Forget that kind of battery testing. Completely useless with modern cars. If it's not the battery you'll be at a dealer or the like next, getting expensive work done so instead try a new battery. Much cheaper. That's IF the trunk is 100% dry.

You could also have other faults - probably caused initially by the wet trunk - such as the charging circuit. Not really DIY.

 

Dealer called and my car is finished. New transmission installed and the dealer said they tested the car and it has no problems. They also threw in a new battery (somehow for free) and tested the alternator. I will pick up the car on Monday. Total out-of-pocket cost $100. The dealer also did an oil change - they said it was required because they installed the transmission. Questionable, but I'll take it. Ford aftermarket warranty saved my a$$. Although I griped at paying the $2400 initially for a 24 mo. 24,000 mile warranty, I think I got my money's worth in just this one transaction.

 

Sounds good!

Now, I wonder if they changed the battery and looked at the alternator before or after the tranny?

 

LOL... That's what I was thinking exactly.... Get the warranty to pony up for a transmission (using all the codes as proof) then fix the problem with a $100 battery... Sad thing is if this dealer would do that to anyone... No wonder dealers struggle with reputation..

Bertrandgray: Glad it looks to be sorted out. Have you ever taken your car to Jaguar Cleveland? I bought the 05 I had from them... And to be honest, if they had a Chrysler 300 or Dodge Magnum sitting around I would have bought that from them as well...And their service department was always good to me and anyone I've told to go there. They sometimes take a while to fix something but they have a really great loaner program that you don't have to buy the car from them to participate it... Heck I had a XF 5.0 for almost a week....

 

"Now, I wonder if they changed the battery and looked at the alternator before or
after the tranny? "
---End Quote---

Naughty me! I was wondering the same: But dealers don't do this kind of thing, now do they?.....
Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear.

Leedsman.

 

I replaced the battery yesterday and faults persist. I will try fuse removal and reseat next. See if that helps, should I blow out each fuse and relay slot with clean compressed air.

 

I have a very rare 05 S-Type 4.2 Sport Pkg with the XK8 interior & burnt metal dash. At 40,000 miles under warranty the whopping noise came back and they discovered some exchanger went bad allowing coolant to leak into the tranny. They replaced the entire tranny and flew the new one in from UK, if you can get it free, go for it

 

That'll be the infamous ATF cooler fitted in the bottom of the coolant radiator. As soon as coolant with its heavy percentage of glycol gets into the autobox, goodbye autobox.
Some keen drivers have separate coolers fitted, then there is no chance of a leak causing admixture of coolant and ATF fluid. Separate coolers are held to be much better, esp. the kind with an electric fan; good news for lots of hill climbing, towing, traffic jams.
Leedsman.

 

I think that is only for the diesel (2.7D) cars, though.