Hello, I'm turning to this in perhaps finding help. I have a 2004 S Series Jaguar. New pair of in the last several months the car while driving will all the sudden cut out and stop. I have had it to the dealership and to two other shops. Each one assures me they've solved then 1 week , 2 days or 2 months later it happens again.
At a complete loss. Ideas Please, throw them all out.

110k miles
Thanks in advance

 

Welcome to the forum DuckyBells, an intro in the new members section would be appreciated.

Have you had the codes checked? If so what was the result?
What happens after it cuts out? Tow to the shop, you can start it again, something else?

 

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Looks like a word got dropped in your post. New pair of what?

Some more details will help, please. When the engine dies, do you get any messages on the dash? Do all the warning lights come on like a Christmas tree, or just one or two? Or does everything just go dead, as if you had turned off the key? Stored fault codes will be a big help, so please hook up a scanner or code reader and let us know what is present.

Will the starter still work, even if the engine won’t run? What does it take to get the engine restarted? Is it fine after sitting for X amount of time? Or do you have to do something specific, no matter how long you wait?

Three shops have worked on the car. What did they diagnose? Any other recent work?

Guesswork on these cars will quickly put you in the poorhouse. I know I’ve asked a lot of questions, but the more details you can provide the better.

 

Thank you for your response. This is a problem that is off and on over three years it's very intermittent it's done it maybe six times and three years it'll cut out completely and at first check engine light or engine light would come on. The lights and things do come on but the car is cuts out and is completely dead and there's no telling when it will start again one time it started two hours later another time it started after they've had it up on a lift in a shop and another time several hours later.
The last time, Friday evening it cut out and now the light that comes on is "restricted". It being Sunday evening it is not started sinsince.
The the places that I've taken it all have said they could not find anything. it's very odd as sometimes I can drive it for a few months 3-4 months,5-6 nothing happens and then one time I'll be on the freeway of course or exactly where I don't want to have my car die and it'll do just that. It just stops everything cuts out except for the lights and electronics.
I really appreciate any ideas, thoughts on the matter, or if anyone else has had this experience please. Fuel filter? Hose? I'm very good at many things but a mechanic I am not, however I hope get this sorted because the mechanics can't. it's been a terrific car for many many years and is in excellent shape with the exception of this problem!
My my battery is quite old so I purchased a new battery I've not yet had it put in.

 

Without the fault codes anything we say would just be a shot in the dark.

Mellow

 

When it won't start is it dead or does the starter still turn the engine? +1 on the codes.

 

I would get your codes pulled PRIOR to battery replacement as disconnecting the battery leads will likely cause the loss of stored DTCs. Many auto parts stores in the States will have relatively simple code readers available to check for error codes on customer cars. Call around.

Once the codes have been retrieved, make sure the replacement battery is fully charged prior to replacement. Come back and post the codes and some of our knowledgeable members will attempt to guide you from there.

 

Okay, I'm officially confused. In your initial post, you said three different mechanics were confident they had solved the problem. Then you replied they couldn't find anything. I'm not trying to bust your chops by any means. I'm just digging for helpful background information on what clues they found at the time, such as fault codes, any parts replaced, etc.

You never did explain "New pair of ... in the last several months". I've added the three dots where there seems to be a missing word. Injectors? Coils? Fuzzy dice? Once again, just trying to sort the clues, that's all.

Same thing with the starter. When the car dies, does the starter respond to turning the key, even if the engine won't run on its own. This is a HUGE clue, so please throw us a bone.

About now, I should warn you that troubleshooting remotely like this can be a slow and occasionally frustrating process for you. Are you up for the challenge? Unfortunately, we've had a lot of drive-by threads here. A new forum member poses some tough challenge, we put on our collective thinking cap, and offer some suggested courses of action. But after a few days, when no magic fix materializes out of thin air, we get radio silence. Nada. Not even a courtesy follow-up to help the next guy, such as "Sorry for the late reply, I finally gave up and took it to a wizard who lives in a hollow tree, who applied a poultice of newt's eye and found ..."

At the very minimum, come up with some means to retrieve any fault codes. Most auto parts store will do it for free, but if the car is still immobile, even an el cheapo $20 code reader will do. Personally, I'd suggest spending a bit more for a scanner, as they can report so much more than just the basic fault codes. You don't need any mechanical ability to use one, just plug it in and read what it says. When you do get the codes, please report the five digit code such as P1537, not just the generic definition the device may give you. The generic definitions are not always accurate for Jaguar.

After retrieving any codes, definitely plan to get that new battery in there. I don't think a tired battery would cause the engine to shut down, but in other ways these cars are very sensitive to battery condition. While you're at it, inspect and clean where the battery ground cable attaches to the body. This connection is prone to corrosion, so please remove the bolts and make sure of good clean bare metal on the mating surfaces.

I've got several more ideas, but none are any guaranteed fixes. Please take care of the basics first (retrieve codes, replace battery, clean ground connection) and then decide if you really want to get involved with a bunch of crackpots on the internet.

 

Two items to check before proceeding any further:

1. Battery voltage across the terminals when checked with a voltmeter PRIOR to replacing the battery
2. Fuel pressure during no-start condition.

The fuel pressure can be checked one of two ways: with a gauge attached to the fuel rail at the engine, or through the OBD connector via Bluetooth connected to the Torque app on a smartphone. Fuel pressure should be 3.3 bar (330 kPa) when the ignition is turned to the ON position prior to engaging the starter.

 

Since Karl is going to go for an electrical issue..

I'll go for fueling.

 

Challenge accepted!

A fuel issue would be fairly easy to confirm. It sounds like at least one of the shops had the car while the no-start (or was it no-crank?) condition was active. In that situation, if the starter would crank but the engine still wouldn’t run, I’d hope the mechanic would check fuel pressure, both with a scanner and a mechanical gauge.

Still waiting to hear back more details of what these previous mechanics found. I dunno, maybe I scared him away with my earlier missive. We’ll see...

 

It is sometime a good idea to cool down and read your own post before hitting the send button. If you have trouble with typing or spelling or language itself, then get somebody to proof read your post for you.
Your post is difficult to understand at times, yet you need to be very precise in the way you describe your problems. Otherwise you are wasting time. Also you have some unfinished sentences, go back read it and finish what you tried to say! Help yourself and us understand what goes on.
Our s-type (3 liter V6) originally displayed similar symptoms, when my wife drove it. Randomly it would stop, although I don't recall the exact symptoms, thus I am unable to tell you if the lights were on or not. Tthe dealership said it was heat related (if I remember correctly) and they replaced some (small) electronic component they said was affected by heat and had to do with the speeder function. It might have been something on the throttle body, I guess here, but perhaps it was a potentiometer? This is 15 or more years ago, so take it for what it is worth.
However, as has been said, there should be something for a code reader to hang on to, so go and get a good workshop to take a look at the stored codes, then come back and tell us what they find. That V6 of ours was perfect for hundred of thousand of miles after that, except for a couple of coils, and a clutch, which eventually caused it to be parked! Other ways a great car with a super engine!

 

Well, it looks like this thread died a quick and relatively painless death...

 

Fuel

 

We may never know...

 

starter

In turning the key the starter attempts to turn the engine over but it does not succeed, the engine does not turnover. Again it then was two hours later I went to try it and
the car started up and I I was on my way for a few weeks driving fine....and now it's happened again except this time it won't restart 1,2 4 days later and the RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE light is on. The car was towed to a different shop all together that was recommended and they've had it two days they've replaced the fuel pump and they will replace the fuel filter then and sensor and they are doing then a smoke test. Tey say that the car that started is running lean. They're thinking of going to fuel injectors next.?

 

@DuckyBells, What DTCs are stored? DTCs provide a point of reference to begin a proper diagnosis. Throwing parts at a Jaguar can become very expensive very fast.

How was the fuel pump diagnosis made and why are the injectors being replaced?

 

Have they addressed this yet? Please ask for the codes and let us know, this sounds like it's getting expensive fast.

 

If a car is slow to start, the battery is usually low. A start a few hours later can happen because the battery builds up a space charge that gives it a small boost.

So was the battery replaced?