Hello folks, it's a sad day here in Norman, Oklahoma.

So I was servicing my transmission the other day with the help of numerous posts and videos. Everything was going fine untill I got to the sleeve. I could not figure out why the tab would not go back up after I installed it. Turns out I was just stupid and did not have it all the way in. Well to make a long story short I cracked the new sleeve and reinstalled the old one. Nothing was wrong with it, no leaks but I was just trying to do prevention maintenance.

Put it all back together and put as much fluid that would go before it started leaking out and sealed it. I got in to start the vehicle to warm it up to temp so I could top it off and I had 'Restricted Performance' and 'GEARBOX Fault' on the dash. It won't even try to start. It's essentially a very large paper weight. I got codes from the OBD and they are P0560 and P1643.

Did I mess up the TCM while putting the sleeve in? What steps should I take to figure this out? Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA

Benji

 

When Rick (joycesjag) and I did my very first ZF 6HP26 pan drop, sleeve change, and ATF refresh on my wife's 2006 XK8 back in July 2013, we initially did not get the new sleeve completely and properly seated. It lacked about a quarter-inch of being all the way in. But the car started right up and ran well for about 400 miles until we noticed a very slight ATF drip underneath the car. That is how we eventually determined that the new sleeve was not properly seated (but it did not crack and after reseating it and filling the ATF again, the new sleeve has been fine ever since)....

I'm telling you this just to let you know that I think it takes more than just a new sleeve not completely pushed into place for the transmission to begin throwing codes. Are you sure that you properly reconnected the Mechatronic plug after you installed your sleeve? That has also been an issue with previous owners. If the electrical connection is not firmly re-established, all sorts of operational problems can result....

 

If it won't try to start it could be that it thinks it's not in park (or neutral).

Or maybe the battery went a bit flat - but I'd go for the connector / slack or similar that's fooling it.

 

That's the problem I'm facing at the moment. After I realized it wouldn't start I redrained the ATF and pulled the pan back off. After cracking the new sleeve I installed the old one and it felt to go right in no problems. When I installed the plug I heard a distinctive click/knock while twisting leading me to believe that it seated itself in firmly.
I'm wondering if maybe I bent a pin or something to that nature while fiddling with it. Do you think that could happen in your experience?

 

The car won't even attempt to move out of gear either. I'll check the battery but it's not even trying to dim the dash lights when I turn the key.

 

If the interlocks are saying it's not in park (or neutral) then it won't start.

Some such result in warning beeps but I'm not sure when you do / don't get those.

No-one generally has reported bending a pin so it probably isn't that... but I suppose you could be #1

 

Have you checked the two 8mm transmission bolts on other side of ZF? If they were loose you may have jarred the cable while messing with trans pan, sleeve etc..

I would recheck the sleeve but more importantly the Mechatronic plug as Jon mentioned.

I personally believe your problem lies within this post.

 

Yes I did go through an check the bolts, they were only able to slightly turn. Maybe something came loose when I removed the cross member getting to the sleeve? I haven't been able to crawl back underneath because of work but I will do so this Friday. Do you think it's possible to push the sleeve in slightly while the pan is still on or am I going to have e to drain it a third time?

 

You cannot get to the sleeve unless you drop the pan again....

 

Okay. No luck on resolving this issue. I don't know what to do now. I redrained and reinstalled the sleeve and plug every way I can and still no luck. Very frustrating. Is there a fuse or relay associated with the TCM? I didn't unhook the battery while performing the fluid and sleeve change. I'm just trying to come up with SOME reason why I've failed at this task. It seemed so simple and straightforward. UGH!

 

Elec guide will show.

For most cars it would not be available but here it's a free download!

 

If you install a copy of the a the JTIS from the stickies. It has a button for the electrical diagrams.
you can also get a copy from Jagrepair.com

 

I have JTIS and the other. Having a hard time locating any fuse or relay associated with the TCM. As of now that's the only thing I can think of that might be an issue. The wires on the plug look fine. I can't see or feel any bent pins in the socket so maybe I tripped a fuse or relay. I've undone the battery and connected the cables numerous time to reset the car still no luck. I really don't have the funds to take It to a shop and I don't really have an Indy that I trust.

 

Start at fig 04.1

 

If you go this thread on the British forum you will find a number of pdfs including the jaguar diagnostics information and the factory repair manual
http://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=90319&highlight=Zf6hp26.

I hope that they may be able to help you.

 

I was having alot of problems with the transmission a few months ago. It turned out I had just underserviced the transmission. I ended up needing to cycle through all the gears and continue to top it off a good 4 times.

No offense to this forum, but I found alot more information on the transmission, and various fixes/tutorials on BMW forums. The ZF transmission is used in a variety of cars other than jaguar.

 

Very well documented here on Jaguar Forums. A fellow member "CCC"" took his time to explain the acceptable ATF that was a less expensive to the liquid gold ZF fluid that is recommended. Along with very detailed drain and fill procedure any 3 year old could understand. He even took very detailed pictures along his adventure.

There is another thread from former member Steve, a loyal tech that explains why it so important to follow the DIY procedure.

Again sorry buddy, it's not our fault you had not searched nor read in depth or understood easy to follow procedures found here!

Don't blame your Jaguar nor the knowledgeable members here for your ignorance.

Glad that you have your vehicle sorted.

 

Im not just refering to the servicing of the transmission.

Beyond servicing i didnt find much info on here.

I am no means trying to hijack this thread, however i was experiencing the "lurch" quite bad. And there are good tutorials on other forums, particularly BMW forums. I am just trying to make the point that the thread starter MIGHT have better luck outside of this forum, considering how widely this transmission is used through other car manufacturers.

 

You sound not to have used Search...

(By way of example there are hundreds of posts about the lurch.)

 

Again, i always do plenty of searching and research before i post anything

From all the research i did, the main problem associated with the lurch seems to be the valve body. I Did not find one write up on here on changeing or rebuilding the valve body, where there are lots other places. From what i inderstand that is the permenant fix to the problem, servicing it seems to be more of a temporary band aid. Which is well documented on other boards.

My comments where not meant to offend anyone, which they obviously did, just trying to make the OP aware that you can find answers for this transmission in more than one message board. I am sure you can agree, troubleshooting is not always easy over a message board. If the OP cant find answers here, and cant afford to bring it to a dealer (which believe me i can relate too), than to look on other boards, search by the transmission in google, and all kinds of things come up.