When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello
Was hoping for some feedback. Ive had 3 jaguar Stypes (2005-2008 model)
they are my absolute favorite body style cars Ive ever been able to find.
My first 2 had the exact same problems, they had about 100,000-120000 miles on them so a bit more wear and tear.
Both cars had the DDCV fail and the CCM blow.
Both cars also had misfires. I was a mechanic for a few years so its never been a problem, easy fix.
I got another stype a few months ago. It was a great find, i couldn't pass it up, 28000 miles and it looked like it was brand new. I sold my other car and was going to make it my daily driver.
Everything was great, drove it over the summer and had ice cold AC then boom, the first time I put it on heat, it wouldnt go back to AC which is a major major problem in Texas, we have 110 day summers. One side blows ice cold, standard DCCV motor/CCM failure i thought.
No problem I figured... Its either the DDCV or the CCM (ive had to do this atleast 3 times owning stypes) and so I replaced the DDCV and bought a used CCM on ebay.
Had the DCCV fixed first, no fix. Scalding hot heat. I was bummed but the CCM was on the way so no stress.
Then the CCM came in, popped it in and no fix. I was perplexed and quite frankly depressed. All the motors appear to be moving and i took out a good chunk of the dash but not all of it to check the right side. Again the driver side blows ice cold so I knew it wasnt just a compressor issue.
I opened up the old CCM and saw there was clearly a burnt trace , a tiny charged area and the copper wire clearly split...
I figured what the hell, worth a check and opened up the new CCM... Exact same area with a copper wire split,,,
So I looked online, everything I saw was almost the exact same copper wire burnt when dealing with the stype ccm.
Anyways, my question is, what are the chances I bought the (used) ccm and it came burnt? Im considering buying yet another one but I don't want to bother the chances are higher it was the car burning it up.
Considering how common blown DCCV blowing are, I figured there has to be at least a chance it arrived with the same burnt trace IF they all burn in the same area when they blow.
Ive gone thru every thread every posted at this point over the years on the Stype ac issues. I understand the next step is opening up the dash.
Im also not as familiar with car computers as I am simple mechanics, I know as much as if its blown its blown. I have experience with soldering small basic wiring parts and Im considering experimenting on the spare CCM I have as I have the equipment to do it.
What are the chances the used CMM i bought showed up burnt in the same area vs what are the chances my car (with the fixed DCCV) blew it.
Thank you greatly for any feedback even if you dont have the same model/car.
I included the picture of the ccm and also the one I bought from Ebay.
Anyways, my question is, what are the chances I bought the (used) ccm and it came burnt?
Probably much higher chances that say, Nancy Pelosi ever growing a heart. That burnt spot on the circuit board seems to be the common failure point. There's a very good chance the board was already damaged when you purchased it.
Pour yourself come coffee and check out the following links.
Resist the temptation to just bridge a jumper wire across the burnt trace and call it good:
Lots of other great info on that website, so be sure to poke around. The guy offers a repair and upgrade service that comes highly recommended. He adds special circuit breakers to prevent repeat damage.
Some pics here of an upgraded control module. I'm not positive, but believe this was from the same source as above:
More discussion on the subject, including the amperage draw you can expect to see for a good DCCV, and why a bad valve will damage the board long before the stock external fuse would open:
Great info from Karl as always. I will just ad that if you replace the DCCV as soon as it fails you have a much better chance that the CCM and the RCCM do NOT get damaged. I have had the DCCV go out on my old 2005 STR. Replaced it as soon as I could and had no further problems. The real problem is people just keep driving the car with problems and then that causes other problems.
.
.
.
Since there are two circuits going from the CCM to the valve there are two potential copper traces in the CCM that can melt. But bc of the way the circuit works, the chances that both modules had the exact same trace melted along the exact same length seems to be as likely as Mitch McConnell or Lindsey Graham not playing fair or standing by their word. (Swidt?). Probably best to leave politics out of these car forms
get the schematics and check the resistance from those two lines going out to the control valve and see if one is different. Since the CCM provides a ground signal to the control valve, A wire shorted to ground won’t blow out the trace. But more current on one of those lines could melt the trace but that could only happen if the coil inside the control valve was a lower resistance thereby allowing more current to flow to melt the trace
02-02-2021, 12:13 AM
Do all of the CCMs blow in the same place?
