That is the best title I could think of.

My X200 8/2000 build, V6 RHD, has a LHR door lock that is hissy at best.

The door sometimes locks, sometimes does not.

When it unlocks the door can be opened either by the outside handle, or the inside lever.

A week ago it locked, as per standard operating procedure, but would not unlock, so obviously it could not be opened. Operating the plastic lock lever achieved zero, but there can be heard a "click" at the latch area of the door.

Sooooo, I deduced that there is something amiss with the cable to the locking gizmo in the depths of the door.

Electrickery at play, so disconnect the battery, let things drain and settle, reconnect,, no change.

How can I open the door??????.

Once opened, the trim can be removed, and the inner sanctum exposed and sorted.

The nieghbour has a "Jaws of life" as he is in the Rescue Crew, but I reckon that would do obscene alterations to the body work, OK, the door would be open for sure, but spousey will be unhappy.

Any options of reason would be great.

Thanks heaps as usual in advance.

 

Maybe it'll just work at some future date. Or maybe a smart whack as you cycle the lock may shift it.

 

You are SPOT ON.

Last week the A/C compressor died, so a new one was fitted a few days later. During the non working of the A/C that damn door worked perfectly.

Now the A/C is just fine, the door goes AWOL.

I know these cars a female, but this is strectching even that reasoning.

OHHHHHHH, the joys of Jaguar, got to luv em.

 

It's a teenager...

 

On no, I never thought of that, bugga.

 

Grant, have you pulled the plastic trim cup out from behind the door handle? You will be able to see both the locking cable and the opener cable. Have a looksie. Make sure the cable(s) aren't stretched or somehow disconnected from the handle or lever.


The hard way will be unbolt the seat (remove) then follow one of the DIY's on removing door card. Once door card is removed mind you, there isn't a whole hell of a lot of access holes large enough to do much.


Below is a link with a couple of pictures that show one of the rear doors but more importantly the door handle cup removal and what I am babbling on about:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-66296/


Heres a better link from past member spitfire showing the front door card removal:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ide-faq-31104/


Whhoopie a great 7,000 post. I think I will pat myself on my back especially since I am wearing my bathrobe!

 

Obviously this suggestion may be way off point as my experience with your very issue has only been related to my wife's VW Polo.

After a trip to sunny Italy a couple of years back (by the way it was winter and minus 20 Deg. Celsius) the passenger door refused to unlock electronically and physically. Of course I figured "it must be frozen" but as it was still locked 6 months later (in 30 Deg. Celsius) I began to doubt my original diagnosis. Our local VW garage said "we will have to cut the door off and your car is not worth the cost of that repair". So I began to play around with it, and here begins my findings after that very long and boring intro (sorry about that!) whilst holding the inner door opening lever with about 50% pressure that would be needed to open the door, switch of the engine and take the key out of the ignition switch (on the Veedub this has the effect of unlocking all the doors) and bingo it opened. So I suggest that you try holding that lever in a slightly opening position while trying the electronic mechanisms. Maybe, just maybe it will "catch" that lever|wire|whatever movement enough to open the lock. I hope this helps.

Andy

 

Thanks Rick, I looked at the seat R&R before dark, hahahahaha.

I will try Andy's suggestion also, whats good for Stutgart, cannot be all bad.

Rain coming Sunday (Friday here now), so I might just get into it. That escutcheon will be easy enough.

When I operate the Plastic locking lever I can hear "clicking" at the actual lock, and it may be as simple as not going far enough to engage the diddly thingy.

BUT

When I operate the remote, and lock and unlock the doors, that LHR door is SILENT. The others have mechanical bits doing their thing.

Might be the first 2 door S Type coming right up.

 

Grant, it almost sounds as if the plastic gear inside the actuator has given up the ghost. Take a look at what I mean in the last picture of the first post in this link:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-65657/

 

The same thing's been happening with my RH rear door intermittently since I bought the car six years ago. I've never bothered trying to get it fixed as intermittent problems are a nightmare to diagnose. But it's just recently become a permanent problem, with the lock jammed on all the time. So it should be easier to diagnose & fix. Unfortunately it's fairly low down on my fix it list for this car, as I'm just waiting for my Series III to be brought up to a reliable daily driver standard, & I'll be giving my hard worked S-Type some well deserved shed time.

 

Thanks Rick,

Looks like fun, not.

Once the door is opened, it will be dismantled.

Quiet at work today, so some more "understanding". If the Plastic lock lever is manually unlocked, and the remote is used, that lever actually moves to the "lock" position, which has me thinking that the actuator is doing something, but when "Unlock" is asked for, NOTHING.

So, the plot thickens.

I will update as I find more, but, as said, until that door is open, not much.

I will remove the plastic cup at the remote handle tomorrow, and maybe I will get lucky.

 

Update.

The door trim IS removable with the door shut, FACT.

Remove the plastic cup thingy at the remote handle, the 2 screws inside the door cup, and pull it off, unplug the electrickery connector, DONE.

As Rick has said, this achieves sweet bugger all. The access to the actual door lock is near impossible to reach.

It is only a single cable arrangement, and took me a few minutes to work out, but it is a simple thing really.

ALL the mechanism appear to be doing as designed, and the lifting of the outer handle, also shows by feel, that the levers are attempting to release the "parrots beak" catch thingy, but its not releasing.

Thoughts of a good kick with wifey holding the outer handle UP, only gave me a sore ankle, bugga.

Tomorrow, the expensive phone call, to a Jag Indy, and see if they have a clue, or have had it happen before, and the fix $$$$$, will be interesting.

Maybe that XF is closer than I thought, or do I go back to an XJ-S?????

Decisions, decisions, I need a drink.

 

Grant somehow I missed that we were discussing one of the rear doors. In my head, I still believe you are looking at replacing the lock assembly (actuator) as you have seen in a couple of pictures its an all in one assembly.

Remember I am not a tech just a backyard wrencher.

Are you back on the juice? I seem to recall a few months back that you were taking a break. I wish I had the ***** to take a few months off.

 

Rick.

Yep LHR door. So the one used most in our RHD market, shopping etc in thru the LHR door.

Googling last night realised heaps of suggestions, and some claiming they "smashed" the workings via the openings available until the door opened, whoopee.

I am going back into the depths as soon as the pain killers kick in, and see/feel whatever I can.

NO, I am not back on the bottle, Orange Juice was the poison of choice.

I am NOT a Tech as such, just self taught from the MK7 days, no money and a MK7 as DD forces one to learn very fast. Then the V12's were a learning curve bigger than Everest.

A few Auto Electrical course, Engine Reconditioning Certificate (1970), and the rest is just plow on regardless. It's only a motor car after all.

 

OK,

2pm Monday here.

Indy guy I know has done plenty of them.

A few steps in some sort of order:

1) Spray HEAPS of lube (WD40, RP7, etc) in the general area.
2) Find a suitable whacking stick, work it inside the door, beat the hell out of whatever it strikes, WITHOUT breaking anything. Bear in mind, with the door jammed shut, nothing is visible, its all by feel.
3) Spray more lube.
4) Refit the door trim.
5) Use the car, it is at least secure, and sometimes?? the working of the central locking frees up the solenoid, and it begins to work again, sometimes not. Its a 60/40 thing against.
6) Obtain a new unit for that door.
7) After the time you allow, about a month or so, has elapsed, and if its still stuck, remove the trim, and break the solenoid open, and then there is a small lever that can be flicked to release the door. Fit the new actuator, and enjoy the car.

Time will tell.

The door trim is removeable with the seat squab intact, as I said earlier, BUT, it is near impossible to line up those plastic studs for refit, especially the ones at the bottom. Mine is back on as best it can be for the time I allow in #7 here, and then I will do what is needed to fit the trim properly.

 

A borescope-type thing (USB camera etc, with LED) would let you see in. They're cheap now.

 

Well, I took some of my own advice, bizzare as that sounds.

I just ordered 4 actuators, and 4 window regulator assemblies.

I will then replace ALL 4 door workings. They are 17 years old, and enjoy the car for another 17 years.

Tried an XF this afternoon, NAH, not for me, sorry Jaguar.

 

Wow Grant that's some big dollar hardware purchase. But once fitted, like you said, get another 17 years before thinking about them again.

Have fun with the rears!

 

Thanks Rick,

Not too bad, about $1200 for the bits.

Then I read that the fronts require the regs to come out etc for actuator access, OOPS.

Soooooo, the Indy estimates about 6 hours all done, even with smashing the LHR out.

$2000 for anothe r17 years, cheap as chips, and the 1st time ever I have entrusted a Jag to a repairer, must be getting OLD.

 

Hmm I just replaced passenger (LHD) actuator a couple weeks ago. I did not remove reg. I don't think I moved rear reg. either for that matter.