Drats White Smoke from both tail pipes after head gasket repair.
#1
03-11-2015, 10:23 PM
Drats White Smoke from both tail pipes after head gasket repair.
Just recently, I completed the head gasket replacement on my 03 STR. I'll admit, in my excitement to get the car back up and running I cut some corners. I'm here to share my experiences and get some advice so that I can continue moving forward with the rest of the repairs. I got it as a Mechanics Special from craigslist for $3200 US (with Known issues) and 65kmiles.
This project started out as a best effort attempt to repair the car assuming the head gasket was the only issue. I had some success in doing this before with my 2000 XKR and on a Land Rover Discovery so I was confident in my skills. I followed all of the JTIS Steps but there are step you can take that are no specifically stated in the JTIS that may help you if you ever find yourself having to replace the head gaskets.
The plan is to remove the lower oil pan cover, oil Pump and upper oil pan to expose the bottom of the crank. Keep in mind I have the front end suspended on Stands but I do not have a lift so this means I will be working directly under the engine. Once I have access to the rod end caps I will remove them from cylinders 4 and 6 and push them up from the engine block. I plan on rehoning the 2 cylinders where the walls are only slightly scorched. I have yet to source the replacement pistons…Maybe an recycler. I have not been able to find these online anywhere. If you have a source please share. Do you see any issues with this approach? Am I leaving anything out or should I consider an alternative.
I had laying around was the adapter for the
This project started out as a best effort attempt to repair the car assuming the head gasket was the only issue. I had some success in doing this before with my 2000 XKR and on a Land Rover Discovery so I was confident in my skills. I followed all of the JTIS Steps but there are step you can take that are no specifically stated in the JTIS that may help you if you ever find yourself having to replace the head gaskets.
- The Special tools are an absolute must and there is really no way to perform this repair if you don't have them. I like to improvise when I can to save money and about the only thing I was able to produce was the adapter that goes between the Locking bar and the Harmonic balancer.
- Make sure once before you remove the heads that you do a leak down-test both before and after replacing the heads if you don’t have this tool you can do a compression test. This will at least help you isolate where the problem could be. I didn’t do this before I started I assumed the knocking I was hearing was from the misfiring due to coolant getting in the cylinder from the failed head gasket. That was my big mistake. If I would have done this upfront I would have paid more attention to the number 4 and 6 cylinder where after removing the heads again I was able to see the scorching of the cylinder wall which ate away at the top rim of the cylinder head allowing air to pass between the piston and cylinder wall back into the crankcase.
- The head gaskets do not like to stay in place when you are trying to fit the heads back on. There is an adhesive that you can buy to hold it down while you try to fit the head back on top of it. You spray it on the side that is facing the engine block. If you don’t you will find yourself struggling to locate the head without accidentally dislocating the head gasket.
- The Radiator doesn’t have to come out unless you need more clearance for your ratchet for the harmonic balancer removal. This will save you a little bit of time.
The plan is to remove the lower oil pan cover, oil Pump and upper oil pan to expose the bottom of the crank. Keep in mind I have the front end suspended on Stands but I do not have a lift so this means I will be working directly under the engine. Once I have access to the rod end caps I will remove them from cylinders 4 and 6 and push them up from the engine block. I plan on rehoning the 2 cylinders where the walls are only slightly scorched. I have yet to source the replacement pistons…Maybe an recycler. I have not been able to find these online anywhere. If you have a source please share. Do you see any issues with this approach? Am I leaving anything out or should I consider an alternative.
I had laying around was the adapter for the
The following users liked this post:
bydand (03-12-2015)
#2
03-12-2015, 09:10 AM
>I plan on rehoning the 2 cylinders where the walls are only slightly scorched
Wow, this is a massive repair...
Best of luck I certainly don't envy your having to do this.
================================================== =
You dreamed of a big star
he played a mean guitar
He loved to drive his Jaguar...
So welcome to the machine
Wow, this is a massive repair...
Best of luck I certainly don't envy your having to do this.
================================================== =
You dreamed of a big star
he played a mean guitar
He loved to drive his Jaguar...
So welcome to the machine
#3
03-12-2015, 11:11 AM
Senior Member
Nice project S Type R for cheap and 65K
DrkMyte,
is there something missing?
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]
[*]The Special tools are an absolute must and there is really no way to perform this repair if you don't have them. I like to improvise when I can to save money and about the only thing I was able to produce was the adapter that goes between the Locking bar and the Harmonic balancer.
Any details of this Adapter tool ,PCD of the bolt holes (M8) and the depth of the tool. A drawing would be handy in order to make one up.
[*][FONT=Verdana]Make sure once before you remove the heads that you do a leak down-test both before and after replacing the heads if you don’t have this tool you can do a compression test. This will at least help you isolate where the problem could be.
Compression test, Very Good point.
Why do you think the cylinder head went, overheating, due to coolant leakage, ( header tank, valley pipe etc)
Are the heads true/Flat/Straight. If overheated they may be warped.
[*][FONT=Verdana]The head gaskets do not like to stay in place when you are trying to fit the heads back on. There is an adhesive that you can buy to hold it down while you try to fit the head back on top of it.
What cylinder head kit, did you use? (eurospare??) Any comments on quality.
[*]The Radiator doesn’t have to come out unless you need more clearance for your ratchet for the harmonic balancer removal. This will save you a little bit of time.
Did you slot the Supercharger, back locating lug, for easier refitting of the SC.? There is an old thread on here regarding the valley pipe replacement.
The plan is to remove the lower oil pan cover, oil Pump and upper oil pan to expose the bottom of the crank. Keep in mind I have the front end suspended on Stands but I do not have a lift so this means I will be working directly under the engine. Once I have access to the rod end caps I will remove them from cylinders 4 and 6 and push them up from the engine block. I plan on rehoning the 2 cylinders where the walls are only slightly scorched. I have yet to source the replacement pistons…Maybe an recycler. I have not been able to find these online anywhere. If you have a source please share. Do you see any issues with this approach? Am I leaving anything out or should I consider an alternative.
I had laying around was the adapter for the
[*]The Special tools are an absolute must and there is really no way to perform this repair if you don't have them. I like to improvise when I can to save money and about the only thing I was able to produce was the adapter that goes between the Locking bar and the Harmonic balancer.
Any details of this Adapter tool ,PCD of the bolt holes (M8) and the depth of the tool. A drawing would be handy in order to make one up.
[*][FONT=Verdana]Make sure once before you remove the heads that you do a leak down-test both before and after replacing the heads if you don’t have this tool you can do a compression test. This will at least help you isolate where the problem could be.
Compression test, Very Good point.
Why do you think the cylinder head went, overheating, due to coolant leakage, ( header tank, valley pipe etc)
Are the heads true/Flat/Straight. If overheated they may be warped.
[*][FONT=Verdana]The head gaskets do not like to stay in place when you are trying to fit the heads back on. There is an adhesive that you can buy to hold it down while you try to fit the head back on top of it.
What cylinder head kit, did you use? (eurospare??) Any comments on quality.
[*]The Radiator doesn’t have to come out unless you need more clearance for your ratchet for the harmonic balancer removal. This will save you a little bit of time.
Did you slot the Supercharger, back locating lug, for easier refitting of the SC.? There is an old thread on here regarding the valley pipe replacement.
The plan is to remove the lower oil pan cover, oil Pump and upper oil pan to expose the bottom of the crank. Keep in mind I have the front end suspended on Stands but I do not have a lift so this means I will be working directly under the engine. Once I have access to the rod end caps I will remove them from cylinders 4 and 6 and push them up from the engine block. I plan on rehoning the 2 cylinders where the walls are only slightly scorched. I have yet to source the replacement pistons…Maybe an recycler. I have not been able to find these online anywhere. If you have a source please share. Do you see any issues with this approach? Am I leaving anything out or should I consider an alternative.
I had laying around was the adapter for the
The following users liked this post:
DrkNyte (03-12-2015)
#4
03-12-2015, 01:40 PM
Any details of this Adapter tool ,PCD of the bolt holes (M8) and the depth of the tool. A drawing would be handy in order to make one up.
I’ll try and upload some details
Compression test, Very Good point.
Why do you think the cylinder head went, overheating, due to coolant leakage, ( header tank, valley pipe etc) and Are the heads true/Flat/Straight. If overheated they may be warped.
I think the overheating could have been caused by lack of proper maintenance. The Overheating caused the head warpage in between the tops of 4 and 6 where there is some scorching. Once I got it all back together and noticed I had the same issue. I looked a little harder with the Compression and Leak down testing when I got everything disassembled. I notice the pistons had corresponding damage. I thought I did a decent job of testing for flatness But I could have other issues with the head. So this time around I’m going to have it pressure tested and resurfaced.
What cylinder head kit, did you use? (eurospare??) Any comments on quality. Quality OEM from Jaguar - the entire gasket both layers are coated in the sealing material.
Did you slot the Supercharger, back locating lug, for easier refitting of the SC.? There is an old thread on here regarding the valley pipe replacement.
Good to know. I’ll make it a point to do this to save me some time if I ever have to do this again.
is there something missing? Naw I was in edit mode and forgot to delete that last sentence completely.
I’ll try and upload some details
Compression test, Very Good point.
Why do you think the cylinder head went, overheating, due to coolant leakage, ( header tank, valley pipe etc) and Are the heads true/Flat/Straight. If overheated they may be warped.
I think the overheating could have been caused by lack of proper maintenance. The Overheating caused the head warpage in between the tops of 4 and 6 where there is some scorching. Once I got it all back together and noticed I had the same issue. I looked a little harder with the Compression and Leak down testing when I got everything disassembled. I notice the pistons had corresponding damage. I thought I did a decent job of testing for flatness But I could have other issues with the head. So this time around I’m going to have it pressure tested and resurfaced.
What cylinder head kit, did you use? (eurospare??) Any comments on quality. Quality OEM from Jaguar - the entire gasket both layers are coated in the sealing material.
Did you slot the Supercharger, back locating lug, for easier refitting of the SC.? There is an old thread on here regarding the valley pipe replacement.
Good to know. I’ll make it a point to do this to save me some time if I ever have to do this again.
is there something missing? Naw I was in edit mode and forgot to delete that last sentence completely.
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bydand (03-12-2015)
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