@kr98664 i believe both pumps are dead. I did bench test them, and both of them are not working. Unless I’m missing something all I have to do is connect up 12v to the lead on the motors and the pump should engage. Red to 12V+ and brown to 12V- does that sound right? If so, no luck.

I did order 2 new pumps, a genuine one from the dealer, and a somegofast pile from Amazon just as a sanity check.

 

Are you sure? I think the pumps are PWM driven? So will 12VDC drive a PWM device?
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I'm pretty sure it should be fine as a test. It would be the equivalent of 100% duty cycle.

I have a spare pump at home. I can try testing it tonight to be sure.

 

I'm not sure about the colors you mentioned. Here's your picture from post #8:



Take a look at your wiring diagram, figure 03.4:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I believe that plug is FP16, listed as black with 6 pins. The two heavy wires (pins 3 and 4) are power to the pump. It's not specified which is positive or negative. The wire colors on the pump module (vendor supplied) may not match the wiring colors on the vehicle harness, so be careful about that. (The other 4 wires are for the fuel level senders.)

One possibility is your old pump may have seized from inactivity, which might explain why it won't test.

 

Mission accomplished. My spare pump is a brand new Delphi FG1340. This is the complete assembly, not just the bare pump. This is for an '02 V6, but I do know it is controlled by PWM.

I connected it to a variable DC power supply. It was easy to follow the wires within the assembly leading to the pump. These wires were red and black, so I connected power and ground respectively.

At 1.8 VDC, the pump started running slowly. By 8.0, it was humming right along. I didn't see any need to go higher. I ran it maybe 15 seconds total to confirm it would respond to "straight" battery power.

The power supply is a $90 Fling Dung brand special from Amazon. I've had it for several years and it works great for automotive testing. I've checked the output pattern on an oscilloscope and it is quite stable. No chops or spikes that I could see.

 

I know mine is different completely, 2003 X-Type, but I recently been working on my fuel pump and my wires are also red and yellow. I would assume that even across years and models there are plenty of similarity for major components in terms of wire color. Also, on mine red is positive yellow is negative. I believe polarity matters in that if you hook it up the right way the pump spins the right way what you could hook it up the opposite way and it would still work well I should say it would still run just in the opposite direction. At least I think that's how it works.

Not sure about for this year and model but I do know that for a few that I have seen, including my own, the factory service manuals have excellent excellent pinpoint tests.

 

Hi All, Circling back around to put some closure on this thread.

Initially I suspected a fuel pump issue, so I ordered and received a new but DOA pump that led me down a rabbit hole chasing something that didn’t really exist. If you find yourself in this dilemma spend your time bench testing your pump until you’re certain that it’s not the pump. If you order a new pump, bench test it to ensure that it’s not dead on arrival like mine was.

If you read back you’ll see that I recently ordered two pumps. I received both of the new pumps last week and made the switch yesterday. I bench tested the new pumps prior to installation. Both of the new pumps fired right up when connected to a 12 volt source.

Once I confirmed that the pumps worked, I installed the pump and the car fired right up. It has been great ever since.

I have a few other faults that I’ll eventually try to sort out.

Thanks to everyone that helped out. Especially @kr98664 who I owe a bunch of beer to. Seriously, you’re the best!

If someone can change the tread title to “solved” that would be useful. Thank you!