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2006 S Type R....I have the dreaded transmission line leak at the crimped fittings. I have come up with a plan so here goes. I cut the lines right before they go over the xmember so as to get them out to work with. I removed the air filter box..the lower rad hose and the intake hoses..plenty of space. I plan on rejoining the metal lines with a half inch compression fitting..I have cut off the ferrules and have found the hoses too stiff for my liking..I will replace them with low pressure hydraulic hose that will allow for hi torque fuel line clamps. I have ordered all the parts from an outfit called McMaster Carr that I use a lot..they never fail me. Total cost about 75 bucks and the repair will be better than original I think. The comp fittings are designed for vibration and strength. It took a while to think this through after I realized even if I bought complete new lines getting them out would be another big challenge. I will post my repair results hopefully Tuesday.
Last edited by scottjh9; 11-18-2018 at 07:33 PM.
Reason: Addition
2006 S Type R....I have the dreaded transmission line leak at the crimped fittings. I have come up with a plan so here goes. I cut the lines right before they go over the xmember so as to get them out to work with. I removed the air filter box..the lower rad hose and the intake hoses..plenty of space. I plan on rejoining the metal lines with a half inch compression fitting..I have cut off the ferrules and have found the hoses too stiff for my liking..I will replace them with low pressure hydraulic hose that will allow for hi torque fuel line clamps. I have ordered all the parts from an outfit called McMaster Carr that I use a lot..they never fail me. Total cost about 75 bucks and the repair will be better than original I think. The comp fittings are designed for vibration and strength. It took a while to think this through after I realized even if I bought complete new lines getting them out would be another big challenge. I will post my repair results hopefully Tuesday.
Yes, pics and part numbers would be greatly appreciated. Looking forward to a great result.
Here are photos of the cut lines before repair...I have everything match-marked so I can make sure of clocking them correctly...nice to have a daughter that uses bold nail polish colors.
Last edited by scottjh9; 11-18-2018 at 09:34 PM.
Reason: addition
Success...the repair went as planned ...no leaks and better than the original I feel..I used the smallest hose clamps that would fit so I would not have a bunch of extra tail sticking out. Two 3/8 inch wide clamps fit perfect or you could use one 1/2 inch wide clamp and it would be plenty ..when I assembled the lines I got them real close to the original clocking of them but fine tuned them on the car before final tightening of the hose clamps....the compression fittings I used were for copper line with rubber inserts...I felt the aluminum was too soft for the aggressive fittings made for steel line.....part numbers as follows...these are mcmaster carr numbers...the nice thing is mcmaster carr has huge warehouses that serve north america...like I said before, these guys have everything.....here goes
low pressure hydraulic hose...part 5645k18
worm drive clamps 5/16 to 5/8...smooth band made by norma..part 5574k12
vibration resistant 1/2 inch compression fitting...straight fitting for copper tube ...part 50385k53
the part number for the yor-lok fittings I did not use are 5929k196...they would probably work fine but are overkill and a little more pricey
I will post more photos of the completed fix once I figure out why they wont load to my computer...mainly to show where I made the cuts....even if you were to buy a new set of hoses, I would still cut them in the same spot and installation would be a breeze...especially if you are working on ramps like I did...plenty of room......finally got the photos loaded...now you can see where the cuts are made...there is a 6 or 7 inch straight section before they go over the x-member...the other rubber hose you see is for protection...and no that is not my baby doll
Last edited by scottjh9; 11-21-2018 at 09:45 PM.
Reason: addition
Wanted to add that you could use the hydraulic hose for the line unions with hose clamps for cheaper and no loss of integrity or function...I bought extra parts because I was engineering in my head. If I did it again that is what I would do.
Just wanted to update. I have put about 300 miles on since the repair. It has gotten colder here and that's when the leak was the worst. I have driven stop and go city and hi speed freeway. Everything is leak free and tight. Put the underguard back on and hopefully will not take off again until spring to do my 6 month oil change and inspection.