Hello again. I connected my old driver side door master switch and everything works but after plugging the new one back in
again nothing works. So I purchased 2 repair manuals and both of them don't have any information on this switch except
that the DDM has to have the information uploaded to the PDU. Can anybody offer a suggestion as to what is wrong? The
new switch can't be fautly so why does it not work and how do you upload the information to the PDU. I am in a deep dark
quandary and can't rest while my cat is having problems.

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2003 S-Type (added by GGG)

 

Wendell, including the year and make of your car will help with people answering your question.

As for your issue, just because it is a new switch does not mean that it is 100% functional. I have seen a lot of times where the new part is bad. What you are describing can all be explained by a very simple problem inside the switch assembly. The switches in your door switch assembly all take a wire to ground. The wire that goes to ground is a matter of what function you want to control. So, the wire that gets grounded to raise the driver's door is a different wire than what lowers the passenger window.. From what I can tell, there is no programming of the switch panel that needs to happen as there are no electronics in it. As for why none of the functions work, that would be because the ground wire coming out of the switch pack is not connected to the correct spot. So, either this ground wire is not going to the correct pin on the switch pack (which would tell me you have the wrong switch pack) or the other end of the ground wire is not making contact with the body of the car. There is a third potential, but unless you have been really messing with the wiring of the door is unlikely to happen which is the wire has broken inside the insulation. If I had to take a guess as to what your problem is, I would be telling you to first check the connections inside the plug to the switch to make sure that all the pins are sitting high in the plug and are snug in their spots. It could be possible that the pins on the switch are shorter than on the old switch and it just isn't making connection.

Specifically, you want to look at pin 14 (black wire) on the plug to the switch panel. This is that ground wire. We can rule out everything but the switch pack by simply using the switches on the other doors to raise/lower the respective window. If you can do that, then it confirms your driver's door switch panel is bad.

 

Welcome again to the forums WendellB,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to S-Type forum. This is the place to post questions about your model.

Graham

 

I'm a little confused. The switch pack and DDM are separate components. The DDM is a box hidden behind the door liner.

The DDM is tied to the security system and a replacement must be programmed to interface with the rest of the car.

But it sounds like you're only dealing with the switch pack in the armrest. AFAIK, no programming is required after replacement, but I'm not positive. Hopefully somebody else can chime in with more details.

The $64,000 Question: Since the old switch pack seems to be working, why are you replacing it? Cosmetic damage? If so, could you swap the old working guts into the new shell? Might be easier than trying to decipher why the new one isn't working, whether it's bad from stock or does need programming.

 

Thanks KR.... I wanted the new switch because the Nancy button on my old one is missing. I have a 2003 S Type but after nana died the kid broke all the shiny stuff. Lol!

 

Thanks Thermo

So, the repair manuals mentioned the upload of info but not how to do it. I guess I will have to take the new switch out and try looking at it. Sorry but this is very frustrating.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ajk...ivesdk....this link to my google drive is a manual if you do not have this one

 

Make sure you disconnect the battery before you start replacing electronic components.

I remember NOT disconnecting the battery with the X308 diver's switchpacks and the right rear window was the only one operating from the switchpack until the battery was disconnected and then RECONNECTED.

Every once-in-a-while I would forget to disconnect the battery when replacing the driver's switchpack. I would press the DOWN button for LF window and the RR window would drop!!!!!!!!! DOH

Run to the boot, perform hard reset, check windows again. YEA

 

wow...good catch Bob...i did not know this for all electrics....i guess I have been lucky with the switches I have replaced...now I do know

 

You talking about the little button in the middle, to lock out the switches on the back doors? Not sure about all years, but on my ‘02, it’s just a little mushroom piece that goes missing. The body of switch is still there. You could swap the mushroom button piece over to the existing switch in just a few seconds and be done. No need to remove the switch pack or door liner.