Don't want to leave you hanging, but no idea on the reluctor ring
since I have never looked under a S-Type. You might try the ABS
section of JTIS instead of the brake mechanicals, or the diff/halfshaft
section. Or look up the exploded parts diagram to get a general idea.

 

There are youtube videos. Coming off is easy, looks like an acetylene torch would aid in the installation. Hopefully its not the ring, module or sensor and just needs a good cleaning.

Here is one of the vids:

 

Much obliged, Rick. Now I understand just what is involved with replacing these reluctor rings. Sure hope this isn't my problem, though!

 

Thanks Rick and Jon, no speaka de English. LOL


Wayne

 

I've heard people "cleaning" them (sand paper) but never heard anyone taking a reluctor ring off.

 

Update:

Jacked up the rear axle, pulled both rear wheels, and pulled both rear speed sensors. While my C1175 code points to the left rear wheel speed sensor, it was cleaner than the right rear wheel speed sensor was (although both sensors were pretty dirty after never having been cleaned before). Scrubbed them both using dish soap and a toothbrush until I had them sparkling. Their electrical connectors were still pristine inside but I sprayed them both with electrical contact cleaner, dried them off, and let the components sit and dry for 30 minutes. While they were drying I thoroughly inspected both reluctor rings with a flashlight. No missing teeth, no rust, just some road grime. So I scrubbed them with the dish soap and toothbrush as well. They're not bright and shiny like a new coin now but they are quite a bit cleaner than they were before. While they were drying I inspected both speed sensor harnesses as far as I could see them before they disappeared into the underside of the car. No visible wear or breaks anywhere I could see or reach. So I reassembled everything and lowered the car to the ground. Decided to let everything dry for another hour or so before I crank the engine and see what happens....

If my cleaning and reinstall efforts actually fixed anything, how many drive cycles must I do with the car before the warning lights decide to turn off? Any specified mileage that needs to be driven per drive cycle?

 

It's not an OBD item so is up to the vagaries of (who knows? Jaguar? ABS maker? someone else?). For most non-OBD modules the code never self clears so you need a specialist tool to clear it. The ABS light may go off, and from other posts probably will, if it's fixed, maybe even the first time you get above some speed (20?).

If a tool is needed, Mongoose+IDS or AutoEnginuity or iCarsoft are some of the ones that can probably do it. (Power off will not.)

A lot of people complain about OBD II but I wish it had been extended to ABS etc so it would be standardised and have known behaviour plus known, publicly published, means of clearing codes. (Car & module makers have fought such ideas and of course it's not emissions-related so they've won.)

 

If ABS system fails it's self test (ex. rear wheel spin on ice during test sequence), the system will reset at next engine start.

 

The code(s) will remain forever, I think, in effect harmlessly.

 

Update:

No change after an 8-mile drive cycle reaching speeds of about 60 mph....

 

Not fixed, I reckon.

One or more of the special tools can probably tell you lots about each signal, and might be useful.

You can check ohms of each sensor to see if they're similar. Check at the sensor and again at the module - anything weird only at the module would suggest wiring etc.

If you spin a wheel its sensor should output a pulse train but it's tough to see without a 'scope.

 

I'll probably wind up taking the car to the local indie shop that resolved my park brake module issue last spring. Their AutoLogic system should be able to delve deep into the diagnostics and figure out what is actually wrong. I will not be surprised if my ABS module turns out to be the culprit this time. A number of XK8 owners have had their ABS modules repaired by companies such as ASI for a fraction of what a new one would cost. I assume these repair companies can handle our S-Type modules as well....

Stay tuned....

 

Any forum members out there using the iCarsoft i930 scan tool? The price appears to be reasonable (about $136 on amazon.com) but the reviews range from "worth every penny" to "save your money and get a basic generic unit"....

Any $40 code reader can read and clear the P codes. Can this i930 unit actually read and clear the B, C, and U codes as well?

 

Several people have posted ... wait for it ... use Search

 

Hi Jon,
Have a look through the following utube videos, it might help.

 

Yep, I've seen those promotional videos. They show what the unit is supposedly capable of doing, not what it actually can or will do. Some of the negative reviews state that if you attempt to get much beyond the basic engine management codes, the unit basically gives you a blank stare and displays "cannot communicate"....

I'd like to hear from some folks who actually were able to read and fix some of their B, C, and U code issues....

 

Jon, did you get this sorted, yet?

 

Zane,

Thanks for asking. No further progress at this point. Checked the four ABS/DSC associated fuses yesterday and found no issue with any of them. I decided to book the car into my trusted local indie shop but they're still catching up from being closed during the holidays and cannot get to me until January 26th. I want to see what their AutoLogic system has to say once my car is hooked up to it....

So I have some time to continue to fiddle around with the car until then (but I'm tired of messing with it after a week of frustration). Could be a harness wiring break, could be failed connectors or pins, could be the left rear wheel speed sensor, could be the ABS module, could be the yaw rate / lateral accelerometer sensor cluster fitment, could be the steering wheel angle sensor, could be something else that none of the documentation I've scoured thus far has suggested. I've done quite a bit of component cleaning but I've been unable to clear the C1175 code with the three relatively generic code scanners I've tried. I think there's more going on than just dirty speed sensors or broken wires because along with the illuminated ABS / DSC dash warnings and messages, the "Check Engine" light is on (but I get no P code other than the expected P1000)....

So it's probably time to let the experts work their magic with the appropriate diagnostics and tools that I don't have access to. I'm hoping for a simple and inexpensive fix. I guess we'll find out....

Once the issue is properly diagnosed and fixed I expect my cost/benefit algorithm to finally move from green to red for this car. So I'm thinking strongly of selling it since I honestly don't need it anymore now that we have the still-under-factory-warranty Subaru SUV (although I still enjoy driving it very much, especially as the effortless highway cruiser we purchased it to be way back in December 2008)....

 

P1111 is the expected. P1000 means that not all monitors are set.
Did you recently disconnect the battery?

 

Nope, I expected P1000 because I knew that the monitors have not reset. Hence the "Check Engine" light staying on. I know I will not get a P1111 until my issue is rectified and all codes have been cleared....

And no, I have not recently disconnected the battery terminals....