Hi everyone, new member here! i've been reading posts in the forum for the last few months since I got my 2008 S-Type (3.0).

I've been getting a DSC Not Available display error recently (and check engine light). It usually happens after driving for 10-15 minutes (never on start) but not every drive. When it does come on, the handling is very loose and a bit of a rocky ride. From what I've read on here, it's the Dynamic Stability Control so the rough driving makes sense. There's been a couple of prior issues that have occurred since I've gotten it and I'm wondering if either may be responsible for this issue.

Right around Christmas Eve, temps were below freezing here in Indiana and my battery died. I got a jump a few times, but at this point the battery was not holding a charge. I went to Autozone and bought a new battery and replaced it. One cable was a little loose and wouldn't 100% tighten but hasn't seemed to affect anything (or has it?). Things were good for a week or so.

One morning as I started the car, it didn't quite want to turn over. After a few attempts it did turn over, but I noticed a gasoline smell. I drove about a block before realizing the smell was getting stronger. I got out to take a look and I could see gas gushing out near the left wheel. I drove the car back and got it towed to a local shop (not Jag specific) to get checked out. The night before this issue came up, I ran over something small while driving. No idea what it was (couldn't stop to look). It seemed insignificant at the time, at worst I was worried about a potential flat tire. The shop said it was a punctured fuel filter that appeared to be installed or clipped improperly. Replaced it and no leak.

And now the DSC Not Available issue. I've read several threads here about issues others have had. I'm wondering if it's possible that the fuel leak may have damaged the wheel sensor that is part of the DSC system? Could the recent battery change had some negative effect? Could have the small thing I ran over, damaged something on the undercarriage (is that the right word?) I want to get the codes read but have to check if Autozone has the right reader (needs to be able to read Jag Chassis codes, right?). Prior to these issues, I did take the Jag to the dealer for an inspection. Issue with them is they are very expensive ($175/hour) and usually booked six weeks out. I can't seem to find any local independent Jag mechanics either

Appreciate any thoughts you all might have – thanks!

Cheers,
Bart

 

One more thing I realized could be relevant. After going to the dealership for an inspection, one takeaway (I thought) was that the rear brakes needed to be replaced. They were at a 3/10. My father-in-law offered to help replace them. He's not a Jag guy (at all lol) but has worked on a lot of cars (mostly American made). Anyway, we give it a go and after the left rear brake is off and we're trying to install the new pad, we run into some issues. Turns out we needed a special tool. We bought a plastic one at Autozone (they recommended) and it didn't really work. At that point we were a few hours in and decided just to get the old pad back in and come back to it. I was worried at the time, but now I'm wondering if we re-installed it incorrectly and that is causing that break to heat up and trigger a fault in the DSC system?

 

1. You might want to post an inquiry re a local specialist in the regional forum, which is located here:

US Midwest - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

2. What is the pre-start voltage at the battery and are the terminals clean and tight? Sub-systems on your car will start throwing spurious errors of the voltage is less than 12.3 volts. Off the shelf batteries directly from a parts house are rarely at full charge, BTW.
3. You need to get a diagnostic code reader than can handle Jaguar chassis codes. The generic reader at Autozone is unlikely to fill the bill; many forum members use the iCarsoft i930, for example. The cost is well under an hours labor charge at your local Jaguar dealer.
4. Replacing the rear brake pads does indeed require a special tool to wind back the caliper pistons; did you replace old pads to the same location in the caliper and were you prompted to do a recalibration on start-up?
5. Is your left front wheel arch liner missing or broken? If so, replace it...

If you (and your FIL) are not comfortable working around Jags, then a good "Indy" is crucial... We can help, but a certain level of automotive knowledge is required.

 

Take care of that problem cable. Is it responsible for the DSC fault? Probably not, but a general rule in troubleshooting is to take care of the known faults first. Sometimes, if you're lucky, this also clears up other faults.

What is your driving pattern since replacing the battery? Most new batteries are not fully charged at the time of sale. The battery may not be getting a proper charge if you've only been making short trips with high electrical loads such as the heater, rear defrost, lights, and the stereo cranking Pet Shop Boys (we don't judge). Long discussion here about how low prestart voltage can trigger a DSC warning, although it is usually in concert with parking brake and cruise control messages, too:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...attery-193787/


If you insist the battery must be good because it's new, I shall move into your guest room until you cry uncle and consider that new parts can be bad from stock. It's rare, but it happens.


Please define "turn over". Was the starter cranking speed normal, but the engine wouldn't run on its own? Or was the starter speed slow? Big difference in how to proceed, so I wanted to make sure.


The fuel filter is behind the plastic wheel well liner and is fairly well protected. Any signs of damage to the liner? I'm wondering if the road debris was something like a strip of metal that flailed around the wheelwell and damaged the wire harness to the wheel speed sensor. The harness is clipped to the lower suspension arm, IIRC. Remove the wheel and give the harness a good visual inspection for signs of damage.

 

Thank you both for the replies!

@S-Type Owner
1. I'll definitely check out the regional forum, thanks for sharing that.
2. I'll see if I can find out the pre-start voltage on the battery, noted that off the shelf batteries can be bad or not have a full charge. The more you know!
3. I went ahead and ordered the iCarsoft i930, should be here tomorrow. Thanks for the recommendation. I had read similar things that I needed a special reader.
4. Yes we did replace the pad to the same location in the caliper and was prompted to do a recalibration on start up.
5. I don't believe so but will check.

I'm hoping to find an indy I can work with but also willing to learn more myself. I appreciate the tips and help!

@kr98664 I hear you, and that makes sense on the cable.

With it being winter here, yes we're usually using all the things (heater, defrost and stereo). Thanks for the thread link, looks like the battery is the first place to start!

I think the latter? I haven't had this issue with it starting since the fuel filter was replaced.

I'll have to check the liner for any damage and will check the wire harness as well.

Thank you, appreciate it!

 

Hey everyone! just wanted to follow up with an update. It does appear that the issue was related to the battery and loose battery cable. I ended up replacing the front tie rods (they were in rough condition) and recalibrating the steering sensor as well as replacing the screw/nut on the loose cable. Haven't had the issue since. The other things I think were necessary, but I'm convinced the loose cable connection was the main culprit.

 

Hi,good to know you're all sorted with your issues. But just incase you didn't know,whenever the battery is dead,or disconnected and reconnected,you need to drive the car for at least 10 miles,for the DSC (DYNAMIC STABILITY CONTROL) to reset itself. Kind regards