EBC vs Akebono brake dust longterm discoloration & cool tool
#1
EBC vs Akebono brake dust longterm discoloration & cool tool
Folks,
A have Akebono up front and EBC reds in the back. As many have posted, the Akebono's make less dust but having just washed the car, you can tell the rear wheel with the EBC is more brown (pic #192 rear) then the front (pic #193). At 40k miles, the dealer repolished the rims and currently the car is at 60k. The EBC leaves this very difficult to polish out dark pit like material on the chrome rims.
So, time to finally put Akebono's on the rear. Last two pictures are a cool tool that I found that spreads multi-piston calipers without having to play wack a mole. Love those brembos - new shoes in 20 min and all you need is a mallet and a punch!
A have Akebono up front and EBC reds in the back. As many have posted, the Akebono's make less dust but having just washed the car, you can tell the rear wheel with the EBC is more brown (pic #192 rear) then the front (pic #193). At 40k miles, the dealer repolished the rims and currently the car is at 60k. The EBC leaves this very difficult to polish out dark pit like material on the chrome rims.
So, time to finally put Akebono's on the rear. Last two pictures are a cool tool that I found that spreads multi-piston calipers without having to play wack a mole. Love those brembos - new shoes in 20 min and all you need is a mallet and a punch!
Last edited by H20boy; 08-29-2010 at 03:00 AM. Reason: supersize your pics from the thumbnails you attached...
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#8
Brembo are easy to change. Don't have unbolt floating part of caliber. Just pop out pins and remove pads from top
#9
That's what I thought. Open the bleed screw and it's a snap to move the pads. No speciasl tool required. No overflow potential in the master either.
It is a nice looking tool though and very reasonable. You should be flushing the system when you change pads anyway. At least locally in the calipers where it goes bad the soonest.
Bob S.
It is a nice looking tool though and very reasonable. You should be flushing the system when you change pads anyway. At least locally in the calipers where it goes bad the soonest.
Bob S.
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That's what I thought. Open the bleed screw and it's a snap to move the pads. No speciasl tool required. No overflow potential in the master either.
It is a nice looking tool though and very reasonable. You should be flushing the system when you change pads anyway. At least locally in the calipers where it goes bad the soonest.
Bob S.
It is a nice looking tool though and very reasonable. You should be flushing the system when you change pads anyway. At least locally in the calipers where it goes bad the soonest.
Bob S.
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Robinb (09-26-2012)
#14
I have the motive pump too. For my race car I find it doesn't always get the job done as well as the old two person method. I never put fluid in it.
I'm using Castrol SRF in that car and it's just too expensive to waste any leftover in there. So I have to go through the pump-up, bleed, release the pressure, fill the reservoir proceedure.
I had a friend using it with the fluid in it and the hose came off the reservoir adapter ... OMG what a disaster that was. If I was servicing brake systems frequently with the same fluid I guess it would make sense.
I haven't checked the cap on the Jag reservoir as yet but the version you have fits it right?
Bob S.
I'm using Castrol SRF in that car and it's just too expensive to waste any leftover in there. So I have to go through the pump-up, bleed, release the pressure, fill the reservoir proceedure.
I had a friend using it with the fluid in it and the hose came off the reservoir adapter ... OMG what a disaster that was. If I was servicing brake systems frequently with the same fluid I guess it would make sense.
I haven't checked the cap on the Jag reservoir as yet but the version you have fits it right?
Bob S.
#15
I have the machine al cap for european cars and fits my Jaguar, Porsche, Volvo, and BMW. I do have to replace the hose pretty often as it likes to crack in multiple places and spews fluid all over the place. It cleans out pretty easily with denatured alc. and before use, I usually suck out the fluid in the res. and run the old fluid thorugh the motive just to flush it out. I have been able to bleed all of the cars with a 1 qt/ 1 liter can and since I don't keep the new fluid after its been open (at least with the DOT5 stuff), I not too worried about the waste. Also its design to get almost down to the last drop if you angle it slightly towards the hose side.
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