Half way through valley hose replacement. Hose not leaking but changing it as a precaution since changing short thermostat hose. Also car was sitting for many months and I noticed some burnt oil smelling smoke on start up. I couldn't see with everything still on the engine but was coming from below the 'Rear Air Intake Elbow' area??

-Tools anyone suggests for a RHD vehicle.
I have seen some of the tool suggestions but was curious if anyone that has done this on a RHD. The usual obstacles apply as well but not sure if it's a harder task on a RHD as the brake booster, wiper assembly and AC hoses are all in way...
-Retaining nuts rusted hard.
Been soaking them for a few days in oil and I've had a go with the tools I have but the leverage that's going to be required on those is insane. Haven't got them to move yet and I didn't want to push my luck too far and damage the edges. Unless someone who has already done it for a RHD suggests otherwise I think I am going to need a 'flex head breaker bar' that at least has very little movement in the head (unlike the bar I have) https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product...8S0WXSO0&psc=1 , coupled with the most snug socket I can find. I have never used a flexible socket extension bar https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product...8S0WXSO0&psc=1 but maybe worth a purchase to have in the tool kit arsenal.
I noticed my 3/8" drive, 1/2" 12 point socket was a better fit (but too short) over the nut than my 1/2" drive, 1/2" 6 point socket that fitted but kept coming off with the bar I had. Couldn't get enough down pressure on the nut head..
-Brass nuts available?
I have not been able to find anyone that may have tried to find these nuts in another material..

Further comments:
This hose sure does challenge the skill of a keen home mechanic.
The 'coolant temperature sensor electrical connector' lock tab/clip always looked like it was going to snap regardless of how careful I was and the same with the one on the other side (not sure yest what it is but it looks the same). The heat has killed these locking tabs on the clips..
The main loom hanging over the cam RH cover is annoying and needs to be unclipped from its anchors and the points and tied aside. The hole on the back of the cam cover where this loom clips in is so in the way and annoying and has bruised the top of my left hand in about 3 places trying to get to the EGR nuts!
The RH bonnet strut has been a bit annoying as well and I may remove it on my next round in the ring. Additional bonnet support will be needed.
The EGR electrical connector was a pain trying to remove without damaging it but I got there.
The small throttle body hose was very oily on the outside. Unsure at this stage why.
I could hear lots of cracks on the convulated tubing whilst being moved but that's easily fixed with new tape. Some of this tubing right near the firewall had been rubbing on one of the AC lines and had started to wear the aluminum!
Some of the AC hoses had started to wear against each other. Probably my fault when I changed the radiator 4-5 years ago.


Lots of oil around hose

The very popular local mechanic who charges $100 per hour and last year changed the thermostat left a lovely token in the housing. I have not yet worked out where this plastic piece came from. They 'pride themselves on their prompt and efficient work'... The only reason I will go back there is to make him well aware...

RHD vehicle. Booster, wiper assembly and annoying loom clip hole on rear of cam cover..

Not sure of condition of splines yet.

Closer view of nuts in RHD vehicle.

 

I'm not much help with specifics on this project, but can offer some observations.

Flexible socket extensions? I have several, but they mostly sit in the back of my tool chest. Their major shortcoming is they just can't handle much torque. I've had them birdcage (unwrap and separate) or twist like a pretzel. Feel free to try one, but they aren't well suited for breaking free a seized fastener, at least in my experience. I wish somebody made short flexible extensions, as they might hold up better.

That wire harness clip? Resist the temptation to leave it out when done. IIRC, this little booger was very important to prevent a fire in case of a collision. I don't remember the whole story. Maybe somebody else can chime in.

 

Would a tool like this help?:

http://www.protoindustrial.com/en/in...dapter-1%7C2"/


That's a Proto J5116, but other brands are available. Just search for "torque adapter". I have a set and they are very handy.

 

i got those out by using LONG extensions and a swivel to come in from the top. Not enough room for a ratchet or a ratcheting wrench. cant move wrench back and forth without hitting something. had to have the ratchet up above the TB

 

Thanks Karl, your advice on the flexible socket extensions has probably saved me wasting my money. I was concerned that these would only handle a limited amount of torque, highly unlikely these would cope in my case. Love the torque converter tool! That I will buy as it sounds like I will get some use.

Aarcuda, I would be curious to know what size extension bar you used and where you placed the swivel and was it a regular UV joint type swivel? You use a 1/2" or 3/8" bar?
Did I mention 'arkoutha/Aarcuda' is the Greek word for bear?

 

Gents, I have managed to remove these little f*ckers.
These are very rusty little nuts. I would hate to see them in several years if they weren't removed now.
Aarcuda you are right, looks like the most effective way is to come from above. Should have read the jaghelp.com page more carefully...
For the novices amoungst us I found a standard 6 point 1/2" socket with a standard UV joint on top and then a 250 mm extension bar did the trick. Had all these in my tool box. Very satisfying to hear the click sound. Still curious if these nuts may be better off in brass? In steel they are going to rust again where they are...
Next step now to try to remove the EGR valve from the supercharger. It looks like I need to remove the two horizontal 8 mm bolts that hold the EGR valve to the supercharger? I assume its just these two bolts and the EGR valve can come out with the valve tube still attached?

Karl that life saving loom clip is still giving me the sh*ts! The top of my left hand has turned red now.. Not a good look in front of my clients in the office lol..




This did the trick

This is what 17 years worth of baking nuts does

Cant see why I cannot use a deep brass nut with a machine washer to hold the valve to the exhaust manifold as per my Triumph Stag V8 shown above?

 

That is exactly what I used! To get the egr off I used a similar setup coming up from the side of the exhaust manifold. Ill upload some pics. I may have used a 1/4" extension and socket to get more clearance. Lets take a look

 

Heres some pics

 

More

 

From the Day Late and Dollar Short Department:

Instead of a flexible socket extension, I've had good results with wobble socket extensions. Each one allows about 15 degrees of play, but with no wrap-up like a flexible extension. If you connect several short wobble extensions together, you can kinda sorta go around corners, at least to a limited extent. Here's an inexpensive set as an example, if not familiar with them:



Brass nuts for reassembly? I'd be a little hesitant. I've used them on exhaust manifolds and other spots with good access. Good access is the key consideration. If/when they refuse to unthread, it's not tough to get in there with a chisel or other instrument of destruction, and cut them away. But if you reassemble your EGR pipe with brass nuts and they won't unthread down the road, you would have a miserable time cutting them away. Not sure what the best option would be for reassembly, but I don't think this is a good place for brass.

 

Though it was kind of funny that an owner from "Down Under" used a 1/2 socket and the the guy from the states used a 13mm...



Carry on.

 

Nice informative pics Aarcuda which I am sure will help my fellow novices in the future. Couple more questions:
I noticed you had covered your EGR valve tube with a different to factory wrapping?
I thing you may have replaced your EGR valve. I was planning to not do so. Was the corrosion around the water pipes the issue?

Thanks

 

Thanks Karl, had no idea what a wobble extension was, something they did not teach us at financial adviser school... .
Another very useful tool which I think Aarcouda may have used by the look of his photos.
Alright I think I will stick to the original nuts. I will put an electronic diary entry for 2036, 17 years into the future to change them again.

 

That's some funny irony Catfan01.
Mate, I am set up for imperial due mainly to my other 1970's Pommy cars and freaked out a bit when I bought this metric S Type but I mainly freaked out a bit seeing all the **** in the engine bay, particularly the plastics! So up until that point all my metric stuff sat in a corner.
I found my 1/2" sockets a better grip on these nuts that the 13mm.
My experience as an amateur is on cars and engines from the 70's and during that decade this country played with my brain somewhat as we had all grown up with imperial (and singing 'God Save The Queen' at primary school every Monday morning at assembly in the 70's) and them they decided to go fully metric for some meaningless reason when I was a teen and the whole nation and I had to start again..
Imagine something like that happening in the US now? Clearly we had nothing better to do here.

 

It's useful to know which metric/imperial sizes are close!

E.g. for a socket/spanner, 5/16 is 7.94mm so if an 8mm is a bit loose try a 5/16.

1/2" is 12.7mm i.e. tighter than 13mm

Of course you use the inverse figures if using a hex key or are trying to use metric on an imperial-using car.

 

I thought I was farcking smaht and wrapped a bunch of crap with heat insulation tubing. Turned out to be a nightmare on many hoses as there just isnt any clearance for extra material. I cant remember if I reapplied the insulation on the tube lol. Drain bramage. I will look. .....

YES! The tube is wrapped and I pasted some of this to the bottom of the blower

 

I was trying to cut down on heat destroying stuff. And I replaced tge egr because it looked like it might be leaking during the smoke test

 

Found my torque table!

 

Just curious, how hard was it to unthread those nuts? I don't mean in regards to the miserable access, but was a lot of torque required? If they unseated without fear of snapping, you're probably okay to replace them with the same style. I wouldn't reuse those used nuts, but certainly get new ones.

I'd also suggest applying a good anti-seize compound to those threads. I'm very partial to Permatex 80071. I've used this on my pickup's exhaust manifold, for example, and the steel fasteners unthreaded easily after about 5 years:

https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...ize-lubricant/


And after reading your tale of woe fighting to remove these nuts, I did a little research. I found copper-plated steel nuts seems to be the cat's meow for such high temperature applications. Maybe that's what Jaguar used, I don't know. With the steel core, you've got full strength so you can get a wrench on them, unlike solid brass nuts (or similar) that are almost guaranteed to round over during removal. And the copper plating offers excellent corrosion resistance, and somewhat of a sacrificial coating in the threads so you can break the fastener free years down the road. Just search for "copper plated exhaust nuts" and you will see lots of info.

 

Mine broke free relatively easily. But mine was a southern cali car. No rust.