Hello , I'm new to the forum. I Have a 2005 S-type with a battery draining problem. I've been able to trace it to the interior dimming control and fuel flap / trunk release circuit (fuse 33 in the primary electrical fuse box in the passenger side kick panel). Whats happening is the car is not going into sleep mode. If I pull that fuse # 33 the car car will go to sleep after 30 minutes. The car is drawing 700 milli -amps with the fuse 33 in. If I pull the fuse 33 it will drop to 620 milli amps for 30 minutes and then drop to 20 milli amps and go to sleep mode. Just wondering if any one has any ideas as to what it might be keeping the car from going to sleep mode with fuse 33 in place. Ive tried to unplug the fuel flap / trunk release button assembly but did not help. the wire # in the schematic is 61s and goes to the GECM and I'm assuming feeds various lights that are depicted in figure 9.2 in the Jaguar s type electrical guide.

Thanks for reading my ramblings and any help or guidance is greatly appreciated!!!

 

Welcome to the forum, Jeff. Keep us posted....I'm heading to Monroe, LA in the morning on a rescue mission for our 2003 3.0L. Suspect it may have a similar issue. Battery just over 2 yrs old and sporting 8.7 V after I talked my daughter through engineering test mode on the IP. Granted....she makes lots of VERY short trips so that could also be it in my case...but it was fine for two semesters last year and again this year up until now. She could get a jumpstart with campus police or call AAA, but if the batt has gone Tango-Uniform, that'd only get her far enough down the road to be horribly inconvenienced or worse.

 

Well , you're further along than I am with this issue.

I'm all ears to find out what you learn.

I too have an intermittent drain that drops the battery low enough to cause malfunctions.

 

Sounds like the gems module is not going to sleep if its in that circuit. Check its grounds. But past that youll proboly need a gems module and programing to car

 

Hey, thank you for the help!!! Is the GEMS the same as thing as the GECM ? Does it need to be programed at the dealer? Any Idea how much that may cost? Sorry for the twenty questions, but I am very appreciative of you time and knowledge!!!!!!!!

Thank you again,
Jeff

 

Same module & Brutal just said it does.

I don't see why you can't buy a used one (or indeed you can probably get yours fixed if faulty).

You'd need a useful dealer who has a clue how to reprogram as well as being willing.....

 

Thank you jag v8 for your reply. Any ideas where I might send it to get repaired? Or a reliable place for a used one?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

Brutal,

Is it possible it could be the ign. switch and pulling #33 defeats the failure that causes the switch to wake the car up? Obviously, I don't know what I'm talking about...just trying to reconcile this thread with this one from last year:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...n-38521/page2/

Try another way....is it conceivable that Jeff's Ign. switch is bad, but by pulling fuse #33 he defeats the circuit that feeds the switch-failure that wakes up the car?

 

Any of the techs should be OK to repair but ..... see where I live!!

 

Yeah, what is/are GEMS or GECM?

 

without looking up the wiring diagram, yes. And as ive think ive pointed out in other threads on this issue. The #1 common drain on a stype is the elctrical portion of the ignition switch. I just had 1 3 weeks ago that intermittently drained the battery. When youde take the key out, if you didnt pay attention the key comes out and the switch is not in the off position as it wouldnt shut off the radio. Now if the radio was already off you wouldnt notice that the switch is not all the way off and the mdoules stay powered up. This is not a for sure diag on a bad switch, but just a symptom of that car.
Gems gecm is general electrical control module aka body processor. Its nothing more than a programmable electrical module that can perform many differant functions depending on how its configured.

 

Thanks Brutal. Just curious. My daughter's 03 turned up dead last week at university with 2.5 yr old battery. She makes one or sometimes 2 very short trips/day while at school with sometimes several days of non-use in between, and those usually at night, so I think that's what did it in. I took a spare over and brought her home for Thanksgiving. Had it in the barn several days opening and closing doors and boot frequently and it never bled out.

I fitted a solar battery minder and new battery. She only has two weeks more then back home for 5 and I'll re-evaluate.

 

Zane,

At this stage of the game, I'd chalk it up to a prematurely-failing battery. I've had that happen after just 18 months on one of our former Grand Cherokees. It was an Exide-built battery. I have batteries built by Johnson Controls in my 1999 Ram pickup as well as in my wife's 2004 Lexus SUV. Never had a problem with any Johnson Controls aftermarket battery. Our 2005 S-Type is still doing well with its Jaguar factory battery. When the time comes, it will get a Johnson Controls battery as well....

But your college girl does indeed need to drive her car a bit more during the week. A 10-to-20 mile jaunt on the highway once or twice a week may be just what the doctor ordered....

Plus, you know those cells have to be kept topped up with water especially during the miserable summers. I know she won't do it even if you tell her it is a requirement, but perhaps she has a male college buddy who will....

 

yes bad batteries, ive tested new ones and have had them fail cca tests, and load tests. also a shortly driven car kills abtteries, they dont have enough time to really recoup from the start cycle, then shut back off. Alittle too much of this and the battery is down in the 11 volt range. Now add in alittle overnight sitting and the voltage drops a couple more tenths, the modules in a low power state think theres an issue. They wake up and finish off the voltage going all the way down shortly there after

 

Thanks Jon, Brutal.

Probably what it was, although it checked good at the AutoZane..er..zone....but they offered to pro-rate under warr. even tho it checked good and I took them up on it - sent her off on the 6 hr drive (to return 2 wks hence) with new autozone battery (not sure who makes it for them) and a 5W solar-powered VDC Electronics' Battery-minder charger/desulphator. I'll have to hone my (nonexistent) metal-working skills during her Christmas break to restore visibility out the rear windscreen - first attempt at solar-collector bracket using bench-vise, copper-sweating torch and med-sized hammer was stylish, but the angle is a bit too acute and obstructs vision...eh...what the hey, she has back-up alarm and it'll block glare from night-time tailgaters!

Jon, She's usually here at the house during summers and I also have an opportunity to top up the cells and other fluids at: Fall break, T-giving, Christmas, Mardis-Gras break and Spring break! I didn't notice that many periods off when i was in school...but then I lived at home with Mom and Dad!

 

I see Brutal answered but can I also suggest it's well worth being familiar with the electrical guide. Get to know what's where in it and what data is in it. Same as the codes PDF each is a searchable PDF. It has a table of definitions for such as GECM, too

edit: there's always my acronym list below:

 

Brutal,
Do you think that the key switch could be what is keeping that circuit 33 alive via the GECM? And preventing the car from going into sleep mode? Thanks !

 

As a temporary solution, I ended up installing a rocker switch in the left side coin holder thing that opens circuit #33 and allows the car to sleep mode when not in use. Crappy solution though!!! But at least my wife can drive it now without coming out to a car with a dead battery in the morning until i can find a replacement GECM. Any body know how much one of those is at the dealer?

 

Hi all. All tho its an old thread.....having exactly the same problem with fuse 33 and battery drain issue... already replaced the fem ,instrument panel, passenger fuse-box , disconnected the dimmer switch.... and battery still draining. aaaany ideas would be helpful.

 

Because of so many old threads (as this was) . . . wrote up Quiescent Current Drain which you will find in the S-Type Sticky How To . . . at the top of the listing of threads here. Suggest you read first, then post back once you complete the analysis to pinpoint cause of drain.

Cheers

Ken