It's a 15a, in the manual it says it's for rear control module, door locks and boot solenoid. I only found it cause I couldn't open the trunk, via key fob or release button inside car...

 

Hmm, this may be a new development. I was thinking it was also tied to the EPB system, but now I'm not seeing any connection. At first I wondered if you might have the wrong label, but F59 is for the trunk release (and a few other things). Take a look at the wiring diagrams here:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource


Scroll to figure 01.6 to see fuse F59 in the trunk. It only has power when the Switched System Power Relays are active, which is basically any time the car is "awake". After 30 minutes or so after engine shutdown and no other activity, these relays are de-energized and power is removed.

Follow the circuits downstream of F59 and it powers 5 different circuits via the Rear Electronic Control Module (RECM):

Rear window heat
Electrochromatic mirror function
Door locks (except driver) and trunk release
Security (feedback for doors locked)
Global window close switch

Does the fuse blow immediately when you install it? Or do you have to try something, such as electrically opening the trunk or locking/unlocking the doors?

 

When I put the fuse in I then would shut my trunk and then as soon as I go to either unlock the doors or Pop the trunk with the key fob it works but then when I shut it it then blows I have to then immediately replace it again and that door locks will will just go off and like open and close like lock and unlock lock and unlock on their own like the car was possessed I went through six fuses today just so I can get in and out of my trunk

 

Also I changed the negative battery cable on the terminal yesterday I got a 2 gauge you know premium wire and then after I did that that's when things started happening so I went back and put the original cable back on I changed it because that one was not it didn't look proper you can see a lot of the copper wiring exposed so that's why I went and purchased a new one that was already assembled but anywho I then put the old one back on because I thought maybe the cable was wrong I don't know if the red wire you know positive is a 4 gauge or 2 gauge but after doing a little bit more research I could see the word Leone on the cable wire so I then searched that brand and saw that they are a premium cable from this company that does also a lot of optimal wires for data transfer so I don't know if that had anything to do with it or not so I am now back to the Leone black negative cable but the car still doing it also I took out the electronic parking brake module today opened it up there was no dust in there no water no corrosion I did clean the pins just to be on the safe side and when I reinstalled everything it's still there still the same you know error codes and of course now the car is possessed with the blowing that fuse I have attached pictures of what my electronic parking brake module looks like

 

Are all the door locks cycling open and close or just one?
Normally when doors start to lock and unlock immediately that points strongly to a bad door lock actuator.
Normally it's just one so that may narrow down where your problem is?

This is a new problem? Did you have this problem BEFORE the EPB problem?
Not sure from reading what you posted?
Don't want to get to far from your original problem either!
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Getting into some Twilight Zone stuff here. I'm waiting for Rod Serling to step out of the shadows...

I'm not seeing how a new ground cable for the battery could be causing this new issue with the fuses and door locks. Even if the new cable was bad (not likely), it seems the whole car would simply be dead, not possessed. And then the problem continues after reinstalling the original?

On my '02, the battery ground cable is very short, maybe a foot at most. It bolts directly to the body next to the battery. Is your cable arranged like that? If so, take a close look where the cable bolts to the body. The bolt passes through into the wheelwell. Moisture and road salt can wick via the threads up to the bolt head inside the trunk and cause corrosion. This leads to a poor ground connection for the battery and is a known problem area.Not sure this could cause this strange new behavior, but since you recently disturbed this connection, definitely take a look at it. Get in there with a wire brush or fine sandpaper. Make sure the cable end and sheet metal are spiffy clean where they come together.

 

So this is a new problem that just started when the f59 fuse in the luggage compartment fuse box started blowing however today I discovered that fuse f58 the one right next to it in the luggage compartment was also blue and that is stating that it is a power something power fuse and that's a 20 amp so I replaced that and then replace the 15 amp again so far let's hope that that works and that fixes that problem but that problem didn't occur till after the EPb problem

 

Thank you KR for your input on the battery that it does connect it's the same setup as you're describing and it does connect to that wheel well basically and it is nice and clean no rust no corrosion and also to club air I wanted to let you know it was happening only the driver side front door lock none of the other locks were working but now I hopefully fixed that problem with this new fuse I'll find out in a little bit just wanted to thank you both for all of your input and advice I greatly appreciate it

 

Fingers crossed you're on to something with this other fuse.

If only the driver's door lock is acting up, it is controlled by a separate module called the (wait for it...) Driver's Door Module. The other three locks are controlled by the RECM. The modules communicate via a data bus, but the actual power to operate the lock actuators comes via the respective module.

 

When I had my parking brake fault in my S type R I troubleshot it down to the ignition switch key in circuit switch. I was getting random parking brake faults while driving. Are yours random or continuous?

you could try starting at the car putting it in gear and wiggling the key in the ignition lock if the problem was intermittent. If wiggling the key sets off the fault then you’ve got the same problem that I had.

by the way be careful when you’re cleaning terminals and inspecting circuit boards because many of the components are susceptible to ESD. And when you go in rub the connectors you’re charging up electrons and sending them directly into the ICs inside the module and I can destroy parts. I don’t even like holding the circuit boards because of potential ESD damage but if done correctly we could do it safely but rubbing on those pins can’t get you in trouble

 

Thank you arrcuda, it's on constant now, I'm actually getting a new key cut and programmed today, so I will let you know. It's definitely something electrical though.

 

Aaacuda was that the "flap" on the ignition switch that caused your problem?
I have heard that can cause problems with time and wear.
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i’m not sure what the mechanism is that tells the car whether or not the keys inserted. I always imagined a separate contact inside the ignition lock that gets pushed to make contact when the keys inserted. I can’t see why on earth anybody would try to design a key in switch by using that little stainless steel dust flap. It would be a lot more difficult than just putting a simple contact switch inside the barrel that gets pushed up and closes a switch when the key is inserted

 

on my car it was the flap. I bought a used ignition switch with a key and swapped the flap. You have to remove the internal barrel of the switch to get to the flap. That is why you need a key to turn to run position to release the lock pin. In theory you could drill out the lock pin in the used unit because all you want is the flap. I did mine without removing the original switch from the car. After you remove it from the dash and unplug the electrical connector there is enough slack in the interpock cable to get it out to work with. There is a tsb on the flap removal that is very helpful

 

Yes I agree it's an odd setup but yes the flap tells the car if a key is in the switch. How the key is cut determines if the key can turn the switch. Two separate actions for why? I don't know.

We had a thread years ago with a car that would not start and nobody could figure it out. He tried all kinds of things too as the key went in and turned just like it always did but now he had a no start condition. It turned out to be the flap and I found out it was part of the switch although like scottjh9 posted above you can swap just the flap between switches.

The flap is NOT available separately and really was never mentioned in Jaguar documents either?
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Aarcuda, what does ESD mean?
ALSO UPDATE still haven't figured out my EPB system yet, but since I replaced the fuses in the luggage compartment, no fuses have blown since, but the door locks still go crazy when I unlock the door to get inside and continue to do it until I start the car and the when I turn off the car the continue to do it. I also can physically see the front driver and both back passenger door buttons lock and unlock, however the front passenger door button does not move but I can hear the motor running like it is locking and unlocking. ...smh, this car I love but it's so frustrating....

 

The flap is NOT available separately and really was never mentioned in Jaguar documents either?


it is called the bulking tumbler by jaguar. Here is the tsb that refers to it

 

Gigisnails: If your front passenger's locking tab is not moving and the solenoid in the door is trying to accomplish the locking function to no avail, this will give the central locking system fits. The door needs to be opened and the mechanism sorted as the "all doors locked" signal is not being registered in the module and you are experiencing the result...

 

Details here for the actuator in a rear door. Not sure of the differences with a front door, but most of the details should still be applicable:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-65657/

 

ESD Stands for electrostatic discharge. It’s when you generate A positive or a negative charge due to friction such as walking across the carpet. Sometimes you got up enough shows that when you go to open the door you get a small electrical discharge Eric to the door knob. Well you can do the same thing to electronic components that can damage the internal circuit. You don’t even have to feel the shock in order for the damage some electronics because there’s so sensitive to low levels of charge build up. But basically the extremely fast flow of electrons from your body to the component causes heat which can burn out the structure on the inside of integrated circuits

in most cases parts and automobiles have protections against ESD discharge because they know bunch of dummies I guess I’m gonna be messing around and touching things we shouldn’t be touching but there’s no guarantees

And I say that as I have my instrument panel in my lap and rubbing plastic polish all over the face lens lol. Do what I say not what I do!