engine code p1383?!
#21
lots of info on the forum.
Mainly due to lack of oil change maintenance. Do this: purchase engine flush - run engine (from cold) at idle for about 20 to 25 mins, drain oil.
Put in conventional cheapest oil you can find (5w20 viscosity) and I mean cheap like auto big box branded oil like advance cause your gonna change it after 1,000 miles.
Here's the trick - sub 1qt of oil w/ Mercon 5 transmission fluid. Trans fluid is highly detergent and will penetrate and clean the small oil passages of the VVT solenoids.
It takes about at least a few hundred miles of normal driving.
The above method is proven.
Also there is a TSB for VVT's for the 3.0 engine that is remedied by reprogramming.
Mainly due to lack of oil change maintenance. Do this: purchase engine flush - run engine (from cold) at idle for about 20 to 25 mins, drain oil.
Put in conventional cheapest oil you can find (5w20 viscosity) and I mean cheap like auto big box branded oil like advance cause your gonna change it after 1,000 miles.
Here's the trick - sub 1qt of oil w/ Mercon 5 transmission fluid. Trans fluid is highly detergent and will penetrate and clean the small oil passages of the VVT solenoids.
It takes about at least a few hundred miles of normal driving.
The above method is proven.
Also there is a TSB for VVT's for the 3.0 engine that is remedied by reprogramming.
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abonano (02-05-2015)
#22
code p1383 and p1388
I am looking at a 2000 jaguar s for a project car.
The car drives fine although the needed basic struts etc wear and tear things replaced not a big deal. What worries me are the codes that pop up they are p1383 and p1388.
The guy who is selling it said that the temp sensor was replaced recently and that about a year ago the timming chain was replaced.
Could the codes be do to a bad erg value or is it due to the fact that the timming chain was not proberly installed correctly? The codes can be cleared out but return after driving a few miles.
Any help will be appreciated very much,
Thank you
The car drives fine although the needed basic struts etc wear and tear things replaced not a big deal. What worries me are the codes that pop up they are p1383 and p1388.
The guy who is selling it said that the temp sensor was replaced recently and that about a year ago the timming chain was replaced.
Could the codes be do to a bad erg value or is it due to the fact that the timming chain was not proberly installed correctly? The codes can be cleared out but return after driving a few miles.
Any help will be appreciated very much,
Thank you
#24
Thank you for your information
#25
Well the tensioners are the biggest problem/expense on the early 4.0L V-8's. Why is he selling it after doing that expensive work?
Can you dig up anything on those codes? We do have a code listing on the forum too that might help? Sorry I can't find the code listing right now.
Finally do you have the shop manual (JTIS)? It's free on this site or you can get a PDF version on EBay for about $10-$15.
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.
.
Can you dig up anything on those codes? We do have a code listing on the forum too that might help? Sorry I can't find the code listing right now.
Finally do you have the shop manual (JTIS)? It's free on this site or you can get a PDF version on EBay for about $10-$15.
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.
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The following users liked this post:
kmccannon (09-11-2015)
#26
Well the tensioners are the biggest problem/expense on the early 4.0L V-8's. Why is he selling it after doing that expensive work?
Can you dig up anything on those codes? We do have a code listing on the forum too that might help? Sorry I can't find the code listing right now.
Finally do you have the shop manual (JTIS)? It's free on this site or you can get a PDF version on EBay for about $10-$15.
.
.
.
Can you dig up anything on those codes? We do have a code listing on the forum too that might help? Sorry I can't find the code listing right now.
Finally do you have the shop manual (JTIS)? It's free on this site or you can get a PDF version on EBay for about $10-$15.
.
.
.
Thank you for the shop manual information.
The guy wants to sell the car because he has 6 cars and he only has a two car garage the city says he can no longer park them were they are.
He purchased it from a auction it was ceased in a drug bust. He bought it because he always wanted a jaguar. The front seats will have to have new leather on them because they were sliced open for now that is the least of my concerns.
I ran a vin check and the previous owners did keep up the maintenance on it and it did pass state inspection until now because of the codes.
If I can get it for 2,000 dollars or under is that a good deal?
Other then the seats being ripped it is in good condition. NO scratches or dings and the paint is good.
Also if I flushed the oil like I have been reading about on the forum would that help the car as well?
Thank you so much for all of your help.
#29
The codes in PDF and more - see JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
But also use Search for previous threads on those very codes.
But also use Search for previous threads on those very codes.
#31
Code p1381
Will try your repair, did a flush with sea foam yesterday and the CEL did not come on as frequent every second start cycle it only came when I gunned it, which leads me to believe I have a sticky solenoid, will dump a litre of oil today and put some mercon V. Will let you know thanks again.All my pinpoint tests came positive so I was suspecting that already.
lots of info on the forum.
Mainly due to lack of oil change maintenance. Do this: purchase engine flush - run engine (from cold) at idle for about 20 to 25 mins, drain oil.
Put in conventional cheapest oil you can find (5w20 viscosity) and I mean cheap like auto big box branded oil like advance cause your gonna change it after 1,000 miles.
Here's the trick - sub 1qt of oil w/ Mercon 5 transmission fluid. Trans fluid is highly detergent and will penetrate and clean the small oil passages of the VVT solenoids.
It takes about at least a few hundred miles of normal driving.
The above method is proven.
Also there is a TSB for VVT's for the 3.0 engine that is remedied by reprogramming.
Mainly due to lack of oil change maintenance. Do this: purchase engine flush - run engine (from cold) at idle for about 20 to 25 mins, drain oil.
Put in conventional cheapest oil you can find (5w20 viscosity) and I mean cheap like auto big box branded oil like advance cause your gonna change it after 1,000 miles.
Here's the trick - sub 1qt of oil w/ Mercon 5 transmission fluid. Trans fluid is highly detergent and will penetrate and clean the small oil passages of the VVT solenoids.
It takes about at least a few hundred miles of normal driving.
The above method is proven.
Also there is a TSB for VVT's for the 3.0 engine that is remedied by reprogramming.
#32
Thank you Hilary! Your technique fixed my issue and allowed me to "smog" my Jag (V8_2002 S) for registration. Originally cleared my P1383 code and took to smog station since registration was due (in CA). Clearing the code also reset the history - so I didn't pass my test since not enough data had been captured. So I tried this solution. What a relief! Flush engine, fill with 1 qt trans fluid, cheap oil, reset code, then drive for a week. Passed inspection! By the way, my oil level was low so maybe that was an issue as well. Either way - saved me a boat load of $$$ and huge effort. Thanks again!
#33
Actually, the technique came from "abonano," one of our Regional Coordinators. Credit where credit is due and all that...
A word to the wise, keep track of your engine's oil level and regardless of mileage driven, change it at least once a year with the correct spec, good quality motor oil. This should avert a repeat performance of your problem.
A word to the wise, keep track of your engine's oil level and regardless of mileage driven, change it at least once a year with the correct spec, good quality motor oil. This should avert a repeat performance of your problem.
#34
Actually, the technique came from "abonano," one of our Regional Coordinators. Credit where credit is due and all that...
A word to the wise, keep track of your engine's oil level and regardless of mileage driven, change it at least once a year with the correct spec, good quality motor oil. This should avert a repeat performance of your problem.
A word to the wise, keep track of your engine's oil level and regardless of mileage driven, change it at least once a year with the correct spec, good quality motor oil. This should avert a repeat performance of your problem.
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S-Type Owner (05-09-2022)
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