"Engine Coolant Low". False alarm
#21
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
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#22
#23
#24
#27
The pressure release valve in your cap may be bad. Try a replacement cap.
If that does not fix it have your cooling system professionally examined. It is a false economy to delay repairing any cooling system problem...the negative consequences of possible overheating in these engines are just too high.
If that does not fix it have your cooling system professionally examined. It is a false economy to delay repairing any cooling system problem...the negative consequences of possible overheating in these engines are just too high.
#29
The pressure release valve in your cap may be bad. Try a replacement cap.
If that does not fix it have your cooling system professionally examined. It is a false economy to delay repairing any cooling system problem...the negative consequences of possible overheating in these engines are just too high.
If that does not fix it have your cooling system professionally examined. It is a false economy to delay repairing any cooling system problem...the negative consequences of possible overheating in these engines are just too high.
#30
There was a seriously long thread about this - it turned out the float had gone porous. When the system pressurised the float sank.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartesian_diver
The OP fixed it by adding a bit more buoyancy to the float.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartesian_diver
The OP fixed it by adding a bit more buoyancy to the float.
#31
#33
Realizing this is an old Post, but seems it is a common problem. I just wanted to share my own experience w/this issue. I bought my 2006 Jag on 06/03/13, and within less than a week, I was getting the "Engine Coolant Low" Error. It THANKFULLY was still under the 90 day Warranty, so the Selling Auto Lot where I purchased it, was still responsible for the repair. I stopped by Autozone 2x's after the warning came on intermittently before it finally came on for good (knowing nothing about auto repair or autos in general), I had Autozone check the fluid levels, which they both times told me were max'd out (they also told me, if I put any more fluid in it, then I could cause an overflow, as the tanks & reservoir were full). After the selling Auto Lot looked at my Jag, they determined the code I was getting was a "False Read". I returned for the repair, but seems they tried to save $ the 1st time around and so the bought a used tank (unfortunately, the tank did not come w/a sensor..Duh! Might have wanted to check that before buying). The selling Auto Lot then purchased one new from the local Jaguar Dealership in Baton Rouge, LA (Perretti's). As I lived closer to the Jag Dealer, I volunteered to drop off their check and pick up their purchased part. The Jag Dealership sold the brand new tank to the Selling Dealership for $110.04. I went this past Thursday to have the repair done. They swapped out the tank, and it 'of course & thankfully' resolved the Error Issue!!
The cost of a new tank may be different where you are located geographically, but for anyone local to Baton Rouge, LA, the $110 is basically what you are looking at for a new tank currently, just so you can factor that into your self repair vs replace & your shop for used vs new part decision.
Good Luck & Best Regards!!
The cost of a new tank may be different where you are located geographically, but for anyone local to Baton Rouge, LA, the $110 is basically what you are looking at for a new tank currently, just so you can factor that into your self repair vs replace & your shop for used vs new part decision.
Good Luck & Best Regards!!
#34
it was the float inside the chamber that you cant get to. so i stuck a small tube in thru the openings to the far chamber and shot some air in there while it had coolant in it. the bubbles seemed to jar the float loose and all is well.(ps. before shooting air in from my air gun close mouth, so i dont drink antifreez) the stuck float idea was from another post somewhere in here, you guys are great
#35
05 s type 4.2 na - inside the tank there are some small chambers , one of which will house the sensor from underneath. The sensor is not in contact with the coolant but there is a small float that slides up and down and it’s in the tank compartment. You can see and hear it move on an empty tank before you install it. ( I know I’ve done it twice) crappy design, it fails on a seam right below the little hose attachment at the top which is another sensitive connection, if you put too much pressure on it will crack easily. There is a thread in here that shows a step by step too. Oh and yeah someone hit the nail on the head that the float gets porous and sinks when pressurized.
Last edited by jag1023; 07-31-2018 at 10:16 PM.
#36
It is probably just a bleeding issue... See, the coolant system needs to be bled of air when any service is done. Even when bled properly, you could still have bubbles in the system that will bleed out in a couple of days of use, triggering the "Check Coolant" message..
I got the same thing after a DCCV replacement. Freaked me out at first until I looked, and it was only a little down.. Added some coolant and all was fine.
I got the same thing after a DCCV replacement. Freaked me out at first until I looked, and it was only a little down.. Added some coolant and all was fine.
I have also found that on the occasions coolant has been drained or lost and refilled after repairs. Even though the car has been left running for a while with the expansion tank cap off and the coolant level topped up until it remains fixed, for the next 2 or 3 days of use the coolant will need to be topped up every day.
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