Just got off the phone with the shop - some good news/bad news.
The car is '06 but the manufacture date is pre Nov - so it has '05 components - and a different transmission. The nuetral safety switch is under the shifter (not inside the trans) a cheaper fix ($850 for the part from Jag vs $3k+) and fewer hours labor charge - the bad news is that the warrantee company said that it's not a covered fix. It will likely be first of the week till I get her back - hopefully this is the end of the issue - hope I don't have to prepare for the next one..... and even w/'05 components - I may be safe from the plastic bits that break..... there is always hope. I'll post again when she's home with any final details on the fix.

 

You could pick up a used part from ebay for a few $$$ and DIY fix it. The trans didn't change from 05 to 06 as far as I can tell (or indeed from 04 to 08).

 

Still no plastic bits with a 05, not the ones that break in the shifter anyway, but, as John says there is no difference in the 05 and 06 transmissions.

 

No transmission changes from 2003 up through 2008 MYs.

Rosemary check with Ken Karr at www.motorcarsltd.com they might have the part(s) you need at a way lower than dealer price. If the parts are dealer only call Nalley Jaguar, free shipping over $50.00 and great guys to deal with, very fasy shipping, remember to metion you are a Jaguar Forum member to receive an extra 15% off!

 

Just stopped by to add to Rick and the others, as my car has the same transmission as you, and I'm at 135,000 miles. Though I thought I once had a neutral safety switch going out, it wouldn't turn over, but lights on the dash and radio, just as you say. I would have to either jiggle it, shift it to N, then back to P, and it would usually start. The last time it acted up was probably a year and half ago, and it only occured periodically for about 4 months. I never had it worked on, nor replaced, and it eventually 'healed thyself'. Nonetheless, the switch does not fail as often as the older model transmissions from ZF. If you couldn't get your car to even shift to N, that would worry more than the rest. Hopefully it is the battery, but i would also ask that the linkage be checked under the car, I have heard of a couple bolts from a bracket backing out and making gear selection difficult, but cannot be sure if it was an s-type or an XJ thread that I read with that issue. Either way, the transmissions are identical on three models, so some quirks may tansfer across to them all. The car up on a lift and checked out is worth the time I believe.

 

Thanks all once again. The car was hauled over to a private shop on a JerrDan - it would not shift and would not start. When I left it with them, they said they only use genuine parts and fully guarantee the fix. Once diagnosed, they said they needed to purchase this switch from the dealer - it has been ordered. I stopped out this morning - the shifter is torn apart and they are ready to install once the new switch is delivered. It is very doubtful I would have been able to diagnose - or remove/reassemble the console correctly - I was a lot braver when dealing with past cars (Miatas and MGs) there is too much electronic on this one to feel comfortable digging in.

Not sure what to do about the difference in transmission comments - the shop said if it were built after Nov'05 the switch would have been in the transmission housing instread of under the shifter - can anyone address this?

thanks again

 

As far as I can see, they're just plain wrong. I never trust anywhere that makes a bald error and I catch them out, though I like to give them a chance to explain and convince me first. As they're so sure they should be able to quote Jaguar part numbers etc for the different transmissions. The parts catalog is on here so can be checked........

 

A couple of things. I agree with the other posters. The transmission is exactly the same from 2003-2008. So they are just plain wrong on this.

Next the switches I mentioned above are position switches. So no real neutral safety switch just multiple micro switches that tell the computer what position the shifter is in. In fact there are multiple switches that are exactly the same. They are easy to replace and should not be very expensive. The prices that have been thrown around are for the entire shifter. Which is not needed. Of course Jaguar might not service the switches individually but they are removable.

Don't get too scared the console is very easy to take apart. The shifter is then simple to unbolt to work on the bench. Again there should be very little labor for this.

Here is an exploded view of the shifter and it does not show the micro switches so Jaguar will probably say total replacement is the only cure?? If so consider a used unit. Remember that your failure is so far the only one I have heard of so I would trust a used unit.

Please post back the part number of the piece replaced. It would be a help!
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Update - she's HOME - running great! They said they dropped in the switch and she fired right up.... I may have paid far more than I should have - but I do feel comfortable with the work and mechanic - he was also able to able to clear the error code on my passanger air bag light (something the non-Jag dealer that sold it to me or the first Jag mech couldn't do). I failed to request the part number when I picked her up and when I checked the invoice, it wasn't there - I'll call them on Mon and post it. Thanks again everyone for your suggestions and direction - I'm a happy driver again - a car that starts (has a new battery - ready for winter) and whoo whoo - fun to drive! ;-)

 

Fantastic Rosemary!

As mentioned sorry for some misleading advice throughout this thread. This switch is a first for the S Type forum.

Please do post the switch part numbers as it will aid someone else down the road (maybe?).

Thank you for follow ups!

 

Good news Rosemary.
Don't be a stranger now she's fixed.

 

Thanks for the update- we'll all benefit some day in the future when it's our switch that lets go.

 

Hope you did not need an new shifter as that's pretty expensive!
I am hoping they replaced item 4 in my exploded diagram. That piece may not be too expensive. But it may require item 3 instead?
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I stopped out at the shop to ask for the part number - got to talking and failed to get it - but they replaced the entire shift assembly. Now... there is a new issue we are trying to track down - somewhere between 30 and 35 mph - upshifting or downshifting is not right. She almost feels like she "resets" and start to try again (sometimes feels just like a moment of hesitation - a couple of times almost like I've shifted out of Park). Happens more when just starting - then by the time I drive her to the shop - nothing. NO CODES - may leave it for them to try her cold one morning. Anyone have this issue?

 

If it happens very soon after starting, the engine will not be in its normal state (CL - closed loop). It'll be OL (open loop) because things haven't settled down enough to go into the feedback loop (which provides far better engine control).

In OL the car isn't yet sure which sensors are or are not trustable so can only throw a reduced set of codes (such as sensors that are detected as disconnected).

I expect (but don't rely on this) that the car shifts by using its learned and/or default values. If your battery was off those were lost so maybe it's not yet relearned adequately.

Otherwise, sadly you'll be hunting for a problem and probably can't expect codes - though you may get them if there's an underlying issue that occurs CL as well as OL (even if it currently appears not to be that way).

The codes PDFs contain details about the "drive cycle", which is how the car relearns if you want to speed the process up. Some critical things:
1. start engine and let it idle for 5 mins
2. some "coast downs" - i.e. from 50mph (or more) allow it to coast and slow down (no braking) to (er, a low speed - see the PDF lol) a few times

#1 lets it monitor lots of sensors
#2 lets it learn very precise details so it can later detect misfires

The PDF is the thing to read
(in JTIS & the FAQs)

 

As always Good info. You learn something new every day. I knew the CL / OL, but had no clue it won’t throw a code less what you stated. And I love how you dumded it down for all to understand clearly.

Rosemary, sorry to hear it's not right yet. But keep your fingers crossed, it's just the adaptives, or P1000 still relearning like JagV8 said.

To the Forum Gods... can we get one right please? And this be an EASY fix...

 

Thank you! I was out in the Tahoe all day (Santa's sleigh hard at work) - I can hardly wait to give the "retaining" tips a try.... funny - I was thinking it was acting a bit like a "cold backed" horse... I can handle that. I'll let you know how it goes.

Again - thanks for helping - Merry Christmas!

 

Well - I thought we were getting there - working on retraining (LOL) and this afternoon after stopping and starting several times - she gave me a big shudder then would not accelerate beyond 30 - had error codes on the dash "gear box" and "park brake" and on the other dial "cruze control will not engage". I was close to the shop and they put it on the computer - gave them a "U" code - generic - TCM not communicating - they cleared the codes and she then seamed fine. We talked a bit - they think it could be as serious as a TCM going bad or the trans - either case - they said with the warrantee about to expire - it may be best to take it to a dealer (it if is the TCM the dealer would need to reprogram). Of course, the closest dealer is either an hour North or South and the service dept was closed by the time I got home - not sure I'll be able to have it looked at till after Christmas. I'll post as the fix is found. Merry Christmas to all my new Jag family - thanks for all your help.

 

To save wading through the whole thread - was the battery changed to a New one?

Those are the sorts of codes you get with a failing battery.

 

Yesm new battery - replaced shifter one week ago - had the same dash messages then - but then she would not even turn over. I've tried from prior thread advising that the sensors may need to relearn if the battery had been disconnected - allowed her to coast to almost stop from 50ish several times (for past 2 days) and yesterday - she shuddered, thunked and then would not accelerate beyond 35 and had error codes on the dash - I was close to the shop and pulled in - they put her on the computer and got a "U" code - which they said was a generic code that said the TCM was not communicating - they reset and she would accelerate again - on the way home - did several shudders but she continued to accelerate/deccelerate got me home - I've contacted the Jag dealer closest (60 miles) by voice message and email to request an appointment - due to Christmas hours - may not be able to get her in till next week. My limited warrantee is the issue as it expires the end of the month - almost out of time to see if it will correct itself - and I am now concerned about driving her - causing damage or being stranded.