Eurotoys porting?
#21
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JagV8.....NO, there are few things that will be added come spring time to make it "done" for now as a daily driver, and then the massive hunt for a dyno tune will truely begin.....I want over 450rwhp w/o nitrous ![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
uropnm6- Dyno tuning helps in all other factors, shift hardness, shift point, fuel MPG's, HP/TQ gains, fuel trims, timing......Manufactors make them safe, and there is always something left on the table and each engine is different stock vs stock....
The only thing out there so far is ecu reflashes for certain mods, but no one who has got the re flash has not done a before and after dyno to show true gains....
I do not want a off the shelf tune as I want my air/fuel to be on point and timing where it should be.....
results of a dyno tune from one guy to another......
showing some can actually make a lot more gains when they know what they are doing.....
This was before the bigger injectors for the pulley swap and 3 more lbs of boost
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxB7Mtb0vT0
this is after with someone else tuning it with the different pulley and a lil more know how....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7AiJOYYMiY
![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
uropnm6- Dyno tuning helps in all other factors, shift hardness, shift point, fuel MPG's, HP/TQ gains, fuel trims, timing......Manufactors make them safe, and there is always something left on the table and each engine is different stock vs stock....
The only thing out there so far is ecu reflashes for certain mods, but no one who has got the re flash has not done a before and after dyno to show true gains....
I do not want a off the shelf tune as I want my air/fuel to be on point and timing where it should be.....
results of a dyno tune from one guy to another......
showing some can actually make a lot more gains when they know what they are doing.....
This was before the bigger injectors for the pulley swap and 3 more lbs of boost
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxB7Mtb0vT0
this is after with someone else tuning it with the different pulley and a lil more know how....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7AiJOYYMiY
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uropnm6 (12-30-2010)
#22
#23
#24
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Jagv8 I see that you are from the UK my home land. So you must be aware of the DTAfast stand alone set up and what they can do, I have tried their set up but find the TEC3R easier to tune \, I think it is possible to use these on modern cars cause you are only running the engine nothing else. I will do a little research and see what I find and post my results.
#25
#27
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So the speedo will show zero? The auto box won't go into gear. The brakes? EPB will stay on. No DSC. Fuel pump won't run (it's commanded via the network). Etc. It's a LONG list, these are just my initial thoughts.
A whizz in computing could program something to fix all those in a few man years, otherwise probably best to forget it. These are the sorts of reasons why the LS3 is not a trivial project.
A whizz in computing could program something to fix all those in a few man years, otherwise probably best to forget it. These are the sorts of reasons why the LS3 is not a trivial project.
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uropnm6 (12-30-2010)
#28
#29
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First of all I would say don’t tune the ECU, the added safety is actually giving you some room to up the boost whilst still have some safety, I run still in stock tune for this reason.
There is a trick you could do to see if there is a little bit of room in timing, but I have to warn you not to run this way, it’s your insurance…
Buy a second hand IAT2 sensor, and connect that one during the dyno run. This will trick the ECU in that the actual temp is cooler, so it will not retard the timing which in most cases is costing power (unless you are running a high boost with th eeaton). Make sure you also have a heat gun so you can make sure the intercooler temps are the same between the runs. This way you will at least see if it could be worth spending lots of money on possibly only very small/risky gains.
There is a trick you could do to see if there is a little bit of room in timing, but I have to warn you not to run this way, it’s your insurance…
Buy a second hand IAT2 sensor, and connect that one during the dyno run. This will trick the ECU in that the actual temp is cooler, so it will not retard the timing which in most cases is costing power (unless you are running a high boost with th eeaton). Make sure you also have a heat gun so you can make sure the intercooler temps are the same between the runs. This way you will at least see if it could be worth spending lots of money on possibly only very small/risky gains.
Last edited by avos; 01-04-2011 at 01:54 AM. Reason: No pun intended with the word risky ;-)
#30
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I like the edit ![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Yea I also thought about moving the IAT sensor....I am gonna do my own "killer chiller" set up to help witht he heat issue and a meth kit to cool her down when into the boost....to keep the timing in check and not get retarded when I wanna lay into her....
SO how is that KB swap going for the STR? Any rwhp numbers yet?
![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Yea I also thought about moving the IAT sensor....I am gonna do my own "killer chiller" set up to help witht he heat issue and a meth kit to cool her down when into the boost....to keep the timing in check and not get retarded when I wanna lay into her....
SO how is that KB swap going for the STR? Any rwhp numbers yet?
#31
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Just to be sure, don't drive with the IAT2 located somewhere else, only use it to do a control test (sorry to repeat, don't want to be responsible for someone blowing up their engine!).
So far the STR with the twin-screw has (only) got 420 rwhp, and we will not commence with an ECU tune (other than taking out the speed limiter, which failed last time).
Only way to seriously increase the hp numbers is a redesign of the intake with TB, what I am planning to do for the new TS kit on the STR. But I am way behind; this will take at least until summer, so don’t hold your breath…
So far the STR with the twin-screw has (only) got 420 rwhp, and we will not commence with an ECU tune (other than taking out the speed limiter, which failed last time).
Only way to seriously increase the hp numbers is a redesign of the intake with TB, what I am planning to do for the new TS kit on the STR. But I am way behind; this will take at least until summer, so don’t hold your breath…
#32
#34
#35
#37
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Not only that but doesnt the TS cut down on heat soak. So in the summer heat would actually get even more power compared to stock since the ECU will be cutting power to account for heat soak. With the TS it wouldn't since the heat soak takes alot more to come about. Am I right or did I hear wrong about the TS??
#38
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Assuming 330 rwhp = 400 bhp you get a drive train loss of 17%. So 420 rwhp becomes than 506 bhp. I hope to achieve about 460 rwhp (554 bhp) with the new setup, but that can only be confirmed with a dyno.
I am not sure about other ways to substantially increase the power (other than NOS), you might gain a little by changing pulleys, but don't go drastic there, the faster you spin the Eaton the more power loss from the engine, and the more thermal heat on the engine (reducing power the longer you use it). These cars/engines are not designed to cope with that increase, and don't make the mistake to compare figures from other cars (i.e. mustangs or the like), the setup is very different, so the results also. There have been many that also ported the Eaton, but even though this has (also) been on the market for many years, I have yet to see some creditable before and after dynos (besides dynos that show no to limited increase).
I will endorse solutions that work, not sales talk that can’t be substantiated, and thus far there isn’t much for our cars when it comes to substantial increases, other than the proven TS technology.
The twin-screw is indeed producing much less heat, so also less heat soak, and thus less power loss than with the Eaton, so the twin-screw (especially the Kenne Bells ones) are by far the better supercharger when it comes to high power/boost applications, here is some more info between the 2:
http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/twinscrew-vs-roots-fromcatalog.pdf
I am not sure about other ways to substantially increase the power (other than NOS), you might gain a little by changing pulleys, but don't go drastic there, the faster you spin the Eaton the more power loss from the engine, and the more thermal heat on the engine (reducing power the longer you use it). These cars/engines are not designed to cope with that increase, and don't make the mistake to compare figures from other cars (i.e. mustangs or the like), the setup is very different, so the results also. There have been many that also ported the Eaton, but even though this has (also) been on the market for many years, I have yet to see some creditable before and after dynos (besides dynos that show no to limited increase).
I will endorse solutions that work, not sales talk that can’t be substantiated, and thus far there isn’t much for our cars when it comes to substantial increases, other than the proven TS technology.
The twin-screw is indeed producing much less heat, so also less heat soak, and thus less power loss than with the Eaton, so the twin-screw (especially the Kenne Bells ones) are by far the better supercharger when it comes to high power/boost applications, here is some more info between the 2:
http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/twinscrew-vs-roots-fromcatalog.pdf