Hey guys. So while I'm doing my engine work I need to also fix a exhaust leak. It's right in the resonators in the middle of the car. I just want to add straight pipe and get rid of them. I'm not going to weld just yet I will band clamp them on for now the want to do a nice 2.5 exhaust all the way back if possible. But question is, what's the stock pipe size for 2000 s type 4.0? Is it 2 inch or 2.25? I seen the type R is 2.25 so not sure if that was the same or if it was type R because of being blown... thanks for any help guys!

 

Would be wiser to fix (even if temporarily) until you have the car running 100% right with good fuel trims, no codes & all OBD monitors complete.

Every non-standard change you make could leave you in a horrible place if you haven't done the above first.

 

Everything is getting fixed to 100 percent. I want to fix the odds and ends while await parts to finish the motor. Everything was fine before the timing. Just getting g other issues fixed like a wheel hub exhaust leak. You know the small thing lol compared to the chain issue.

Just need to knowto.25 or 2 inch pipe to buy.
Tha k you so much for your help

 

Sorry im not sure what your saying the more i read?
I want to fix everything on my car and i mean everything. but i dont want to replace the resonators i would in return just like to put a through pipe on and clamp them in place. thats all i wanna do to the exhaust right now. i want to more so get it running to peak performance and reliability before and after market exhaust or anything like that.

Does any one know the stock pipe size?

 

What jag is saying is that you should make sure all of your obd2 parameters are good and set before you tweak the exhaust and have to go backwards in case the x pipe makes things out of line

 

Oh I see now. Hmm so I didn't even think that just swapping them resonators out for straight pipes would affect anything like that... mufflers and cats will remain just the center rounds go bye bye. I was more also looking like my cars on stands right now and since I'm on little things till my part comes Monday I could knock this issue out as well. Thanks for that info for sure.

Do you guys think I may actually have another issue though? I am like 100 percent sure i jumped time one tooth. Reason for believing this is when I started the car the last time when the issue started is the hole in my exhaust was really not that loud. Now when this happend my exhaust got double the loud. Still wasn't really loud or anything but it doubled. So here's what happend. The exhaust side jumped or retarded 1 tooth causing the valves to be slightly open at the wrong time causing more boom out the exhaust side. So before this she ran like a mean pissed of cat. And purrrrred pretty good at idle but did have a small every now and then small rough idle then it would go away. Anyways guys thank you for the advise I shall wait until she fires again. It'll be this coming week Tuesday or Wednesday for sure. Monday my part comes and here we go with install.

Parts are coming out nice. I have blasted and cleaned all the covers and mounts and screws then painted with satin black rustoleum. Engine bay will be nice. So this thing better start and not break for quite some time hahahhaha

 

exhaust is 2.25

 

I try to change one thing at a time. So I can see the result of that one change. If you replace the resonator and cant get s good seal on the pipe you may be chasing your tail trying to find the problem. I replaced my cats on my STR and found the joint between the pipe off the cat to the rrest was leaking and no amount of cranking on the clamp made it go away. Those pipes dont cinch dont like the old mild steel pipes did. I stripped at least two clamps and cussed for several days putting the pipes together and then trying to separate the the half a dozen times I took it apart to try and fix the leak

 

the $250 ebay special cats have difficulty getting a good seal at the collector as well

 

Thanks. So I found some nice clamps at napa auto. They look like a actual pipe that you slide them I to a torq down. I'll try them after the timing chain job.
I am stuck now because the Chris guy didn't send me the sprocket holder tool and sent me 2 of the vvt tools instead so I need to wait on him to reply or answer to get my right tool. Kinda sucks I would have been finished up with this job today..

 

Many have removed the resonator only to find the car drones at highway speeds. So be ready to accept the drone or to reinstall the resonator.
.
.
.

 

Oh it drones... no good. I thought I was reading that there was no drone when people removed them. I have read so much in the last few weeks I can't remember. They have a hole in the seam so I definitely will be swapping out for straight pipe but I want to replace mufflers with a decent quite magnaflow set up. I want a little growl at wot and fairly quite while city drive. I'm in no way a ricer. Yuk.

 

Do the 2.5, 3.0 and 4.2 na have the same size pipes from the cats to the end?
thank you!

 

your Nswer you just gave what did you mean withleaving ya in a horrible place removing the reasonator or for instance if you removed the converters and straight piped it qhat would happen

 

I've already got the new magnaflow setup completed on my car. I added 2 20 inch center magnaflow round resonators and 2 14 inch rear magnaflow mufflers. She's sounds soooo wonderful now. I can post a small video in a few days I'm awaiting my new idler pullys.

But to answer ypur question. He is saying that if I didn't get my car running top notch before trying to mod it I run the risk of screwing up something else or even making my problem worse that I was having. In other words. It's best to mod or change parts on a car that is running healthy. Now switching the center resonators would 100 percent not mess with andything other than sound and maybe a small performance. I said maybe on the performance. But it is best to have it top notch before playing around.