Hi all
haven't posted for awhile, the S Type has been behaving impeccably so nothing to post about until the expansion tank replace this weekend.


No denying it's a frustrating job, only due to the fact that there is no room to move. One hand at a time is the only way to get to it. But, I used a little trick to get the clip open and the elbow off at the same time at the bottom hose of the tank, where it slides into the rigid aluminium pipe going to the rest of the engine. If you've done this job you know what I mean.


I used a small cable tie to depress the clip arms [and getting the cable tie on is a one-handed operation also, by feel, because once your hand is in there you can't see what you're doing] so I could slide the elbow off [after spraying a little Inox or CRC or whatever your preferred lubricant is] without trying to hold the arms down at the same time. Saved quite a bit of time and swearing. I don't know the proper terminology to describe this particular clip, but it's used in a few other places on the cooling system. It's the one that everybody on the forum warns you about breaking. Mine didn't. Thank goodness.


The new tank was a slightly different design - no electrical components whatsoever - and hopefully it will last 200k, just like the old one. I'll give the old one it's due, it seeped quietly to itself, instead of letting go all at once at 110kmh on the freeway in the middle of nowhere.


The bleed was easy, started it with the bleed screw completely unscrewed but in place [mistake, as it got ejected at speed once the coolant came through and I had to chase it down in the maze of pipes and tubes and spinny things in engineering], but it seemed to have full flow very quickly. Took it for a spin with heater on HI, did all it was supposed to do, heated the cab quickly and the temp gauge sat where it usually does.


I have included a photo of where the old tank was starting to let go, and the now redundant electrical component. The damage was slight, but enough to be an issue with coolant loss. The dark line is where it was starting to let go..


Now to tackle the other little jobs in the shed, two elderly motorcycles to potter around with.


Cheers
barbara

 

It sounds like with no electrical components strapped to your
new tank , I think Means you now have no early low coolant level warning ,
Not real ideal if that's the case .

 

Yes I did express that concern to my dealer, his take on it was the sensor proved more trouble than it was worth (I'll have to investigate that claim) and go back to the old fashioned method of checking the level regularly. Which, is what I do anyway with everything I own regardless of age.

 

Dear Barbara,

Thanks for the suggestion. It's very helpful. I replaced the tank on my '02 V6 several years ago, but don't remember the rigid aluminum tube you mentioned. Perhaps there was a configuration change in the meantime. I do remember the bottom connection was a booger, but I found a lazy man's cheat since it had all flex lines. Rather than disconnect the hose from the tank, I undid the opposite end of the hose, which had much better access. I removed the hose with the tank, and swapped over the hose from the comfort of my workbench.

 

Are there more threads about this specific job? I've done some searching but it seems I'm too broad and get too many hits to sift through.

 

If you replace your tank...GET A NEW CAP! I had a new one crack after 6 months. The company replaced the tank and asked to purchase a cap to go along with it ($6).


On assembly, I used hose pliers to push the tube on and a long (14") pair of angles pliers to put the clamp on. I like the zip tie idea. Very smart.


I also made some marks with a Sharpie on the tank after a week to indicate low and high ranges. Easier to see.

 

There are quite a lot of threads on quite a lot of areas, so sifting is prerequisite to find what you are after, not just on this forum but on most I've been on.


If you have any queries just give me a hoy, bearing in mind mines a 2000 3L S type, so don't know anything about any of the others in the line.

"If you replace your tank...GET A NEW CAP! I had a new one crack after 6 months. The company replaced the tank and asked to purchase a cap to go along with it ($6).


On assembly, I used hose pliers to push the tube on and a long (14") pair of angles pliers to put the clamp on. I like the zip tie idea. Very smart.


I also made some marks with a Sharpie on the tank after a week to indicate low and high ranges. Easier to see. "


Good tip about the cap, will check it out. I made a line with a sharpie too! So much easier to have a quick check, and now so comforting to know the level has stayed steady, where it should be...still check every few days though..call me paranoid!


barb



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Yeah, I know. Just hoping someone sees it and says, yeah, look "here"!

I may hoy you. I have the 01 3L.

 

Look in the sticky "How To" guides. It is in the S section about 8 lines down. When you open it, scroll down a bit and there it is. I've used the guide and it was very good.