Exxon Valdez
#42
03-11-2010 | 10:27 AM
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From: Akron, Ohio USA
I look those over often but they won't be on the Select Edition tab if they go bad. The things on mine that are out of warranty and not covered by Select are interior and exterior trim and finish plus any rubber parts prone to wear...ie, weather strip and suspension bushings and joints.
#43
03-11-2010 | 12:57 PM
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From: PHX some of the time
#44
03-11-2010 | 01:00 PM
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From: Raleigh, NC
For the 3-litre V6 engine, the oil pan gasket Jaguar part number is C2S43270.
My local dealer in Cary (never again if I can help it) sells them for $47.37.
The Greensboro dealer (70 miles away) sells them for $30.95. Next time I'm in Greensboro on a weekday, I'll probably pick one up so I'll be ready. The parts department guys at both of these dealerships told me that they sell quite a few of them, just like the IMT O-rings. Bummer....
My local dealer in Cary (never again if I can help it) sells them for $47.37.
The Greensboro dealer (70 miles away) sells them for $30.95. Next time I'm in Greensboro on a weekday, I'll probably pick one up so I'll be ready. The parts department guys at both of these dealerships told me that they sell quite a few of them, just like the IMT O-rings. Bummer....
Last edited by Jon89; 03-11-2010 at 01:07 PM.
#45
03-11-2010 | 01:30 PM
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From: Yorkshire, England
Ask the parts guy what else you should get at the same time, in case he says "oh, people always buy THIS and THIS when doing that job". May be a couple of other little items, probably cheap. Parts guys can be sooo useful for what you REALLY need as well as the obvious stuff.
They may say "all the bolts". Up to you on those.
They may say "all the bolts". Up to you on those.
#46
03-11-2010 | 02:17 PM
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Stopped in and saw Mike. He added the dye and set up next Friday to put it up on the lift...He said if I'm real good he may let me hold the black light...LOL
Also ordered these for a little dress up for the rims...
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Only $11 each.... Saw them on a XF-R on the showroom floor... And yes JagV8, the parts guys are good as well....
Also ordered these for a little dress up for the rims...
Only $11 each.... Saw them on a XF-R on the showroom floor... And yes JagV8, the parts guys are good as well....
#47
03-11-2010 | 02:41 PM
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From: Sunny South Carolina
#48
03-11-2010 | 03:10 PM
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From: Raleigh, NC
#49
03-11-2010 | 03:15 PM
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Nope.... lesson learned long ago.... Sometimes it is better to act like they know more than you and let things work out. Heck, he just may be right. Main point is, it is going up on the lift next Friday and we are all going to go over it together. Even if it isn't the power steering, they will still see what I'm talking about... and it is fun going in there.. We joke around and such..all it'll cost me is a twelve pack or something....
#51
03-11-2010 | 03:54 PM
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#52
03-12-2010 | 06:57 AM
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From: Raleigh, NC
Fair enough. Keep us posted. If it indeed turns out to be your oil pan gasket, I'm sure that most of us with the 3-litre V6 will face this issue sooner or later.
Wonder if the S-Type production run received the new-and-improved black-colored gaskets by its last couple of model years in 2007/2008? That would be nice for the later-model owners. Replacing IMT O-rings is cake compared to having to do an oil pan gasket job....
Wonder if the S-Type production run received the new-and-improved black-colored gaskets by its last couple of model years in 2007/2008? That would be nice for the later-model owners. Replacing IMT O-rings is cake compared to having to do an oil pan gasket job....
#53
03-12-2010 | 07:06 AM
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From: Sunny South Carolina
Jon, with the right attitude and tools, the oil pan gasket replacement is not as scary as it reads. As I am recalling more details about it, I could do the procedure in 3 hours not much longer than the 2 hour short route IMT O-Ring.
#55
03-12-2010 | 11:03 AM
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From: Hamilton, NJ
#56
03-12-2010 | 01:06 PM
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From: Fairfax, VA
I guess we are hi-jacking Jeffs thread, but here goes......
Jon you are correct that the alt. and HVAC comp. need to be unbolted, BUT NOT removed, there is enough play in the lines to swing each out of the way and tie them up with an old metal coat hanger(s).
Since Joyces Jag is a southern vehicle ALL bolts look like they were just installed (no corrosion effects) so removal was quite easy.
The oil pan HAS got to come out. There are 15 bolts. 2 of which will be difficult to torque on reinstall, you have to use a swivel and an extension to tighten, throwing off torque ratio, the rest easy to torque.
After removing the 2 motor mount bolts and 4 cowl cross frame bolts, placing a piece of 2x12 (what I had lying around) on my jack to disperse weight. I jacked the transmission AND motor up together using tranny pan as jack point. There were no signs of engine or tranny movement from side to side and no cracking or binding jacking up. The motor raised about 3" maybe a bit more, the large wire harness on the top back of engine (near the intake) will touch firewall. I climbed back underneath and wiggled the oil pan off and out. One other thing the steering rack has to be unbolted (2 bolts) from the sub frame but not removed, just hang it out of the way. No I did not have to get a front end alignment afterwards.
The pan gasket is aluminum, less than an 1/8" thick with rubberized coating running on inside gasket and bolt holes (see photo) the gasket I believe will crush abit on reinstall with proper torque (sandwiching effect). The gasket BENDS easily!! You want to get gasket over the oil pick up tube before the oil pan gets installed. Don't forget a few beads of silicone on block and front cover mating surfaces.
oil pan bolt torque 18 ft. lbs (25Nm)
The local Jaguar dealership want just shy of $1,100.00 to replace.
This looks ALOT more difficult than it actually was!!! I would not hestitate to do it all over again if needed.
If I can answer anymore questions feel free to ask!
Jon you are correct that the alt. and HVAC comp. need to be unbolted, BUT NOT removed, there is enough play in the lines to swing each out of the way and tie them up with an old metal coat hanger(s).
Since Joyces Jag is a southern vehicle ALL bolts look like they were just installed (no corrosion effects) so removal was quite easy.
The oil pan HAS got to come out. There are 15 bolts. 2 of which will be difficult to torque on reinstall, you have to use a swivel and an extension to tighten, throwing off torque ratio, the rest easy to torque.
After removing the 2 motor mount bolts and 4 cowl cross frame bolts, placing a piece of 2x12 (what I had lying around) on my jack to disperse weight. I jacked the transmission AND motor up together using tranny pan as jack point. There were no signs of engine or tranny movement from side to side and no cracking or binding jacking up. The motor raised about 3" maybe a bit more, the large wire harness on the top back of engine (near the intake) will touch firewall. I climbed back underneath and wiggled the oil pan off and out. One other thing the steering rack has to be unbolted (2 bolts) from the sub frame but not removed, just hang it out of the way. No I did not have to get a front end alignment afterwards.
The pan gasket is aluminum, less than an 1/8" thick with rubberized coating running on inside gasket and bolt holes (see photo) the gasket I believe will crush abit on reinstall with proper torque (sandwiching effect). The gasket BENDS easily!! You want to get gasket over the oil pick up tube before the oil pan gets installed. Don't forget a few beads of silicone on block and front cover mating surfaces.
oil pan bolt torque 18 ft. lbs (25Nm)
The local Jaguar dealership want just shy of $1,100.00 to replace.
This looks ALOT more difficult than it actually was!!! I would not hestitate to do it all over again if needed.
If I can answer anymore questions feel free to ask!
Thanks for the detailed pics and write-up. Assuming for the sake of discussion, is the gasket flexible enough so you could work it around it the oil pump and then mate it to the pan taking the approach androulakis is suggesting?
I remember doing something similar to a '71 240Z many years ago. It took a while to clean out the oilpan and the mating surfaces along with about half a roll of paper towels.
Now if you're really old school, you could just put up with the leak and top off when required, after all, it is a British car
. A kitty has to leave its mark.
#57
03-12-2010 | 01:27 PM
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From: Hamilton, NJ
Hi Rick,
Thanks for the detailed pics and write-up. Assuming for the sake of discussion, is the gasket flexible enough so you could work it around it the oil pump and then mate it to the pan taking the approach androulakis is suggesting?
I remember doing something similar to a '71 240Z many years ago. It took a while to clean out the oilpan and the mating surfaces along with about half a roll of paper towels.
Now if you're really old school, you could just put up with the leak and top off when required, after all, it is a British car. A kitty has to leave its mark.
Thanks for the detailed pics and write-up. Assuming for the sake of discussion, is the gasket flexible enough so you could work it around it the oil pump and then mate it to the pan taking the approach androulakis is suggesting?
I remember doing something similar to a '71 240Z many years ago. It took a while to clean out the oilpan and the mating surfaces along with about half a roll of paper towels.
Now if you're really old school, you could just put up with the leak and top off when required, after all, it is a British car
. A kitty has to leave its mark.BMW Owners used to joke that that's why the motors run forever, they are continuously changing out their oil.
What do you guys think of the possibility of using a liquid gasket maker - permatex black or something as a stop gap measure to seal the leak. There shouldn't be much pressure on the oil down there, it's just a gravity fed leak right? Drain the pan, clean, seal allow to cure, refill? cross fingers? I know it's NOT the right way to do things, but would it potentially work? Are there specific locations where the gasket fails?
George
#58
03-12-2010 | 01:48 PM
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From: Raleigh, NC
I'm not convinced that you'd ever be able to get a non-oily enough surface for that Permatex to work for any reasonable length of time. You may be able to wipe down the casing, but that original gasket is still going to seep or ooze even with the oil drained out of the pan....
If the factory gasket fails, I think the only logical way to deal with it is to bite the bullet and change it properly a la Rick's method. I'm a firm believer in fixing problems the right way so you don't have to deal with them again....
If the factory gasket fails, I think the only logical way to deal with it is to bite the bullet and change it properly a la Rick's method. I'm a firm believer in fixing problems the right way so you don't have to deal with them again....
#60
03-12-2010 | 01:59 PM
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From: Fairfax, VA
Mike