Hello all,

This is my first post, but i have read some of the comments here and alot of them have been very helpful. Not sure how this works but here goes.....

I recently bought a 2000 jaguar s-type 3.0 v6 from a private owner so i have no warranty ( yeah i know, smart move huh). At first the car was driving fine, then all of a sudden i got a check engine light, fail safe engine mode, and about five codes. I googled some of the codes and tired to fix some of the problems but it seems like nothing is working and it's driving me crazy because i don't know what to do! . Took it to the jaguar dealership and was told ( after spending $150.00 on a diagnostic test) that " It can be a number of things, We would have to start working on it to figure out what the problem is" . I believe they thought i had stupid on my forehead. Anyway, back to the codes. AutoZone was able to pull codes P0795, P1383, P1380, P1576 and P102. Like i said before, I googled the codes but i am still unsure as to what is what and do i fix them in a certain order. Or should i just give up and forget the $5000 i spent and call it a lesson learned? i fell in love with this car as soon as i saw it but it's really becoming a real buzz killer!


Any feedback would be appreciated,
Thank you all in advance for your time.

 

Hello Kelsey, welcome to the forum.

As you are waiting for some help, please go to the "UserCP" located on any forum page the click "edit signature" and put your vehicle details in ie.. year, engine etc...

Until you are upgraded to full membership, you will have limited access. But you are in luck. You can use the seach feature here to plug in your codes and start reading, better grap a cup of coffee, there are alot of threads pertaining to each and every one of your codes listed. Far to many for me to type about.

BTW you might want to post up an introduction in the "Regional Section" Ohio area.

 

Use this link for the codes for your car http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/P20000.PDF Were your codes cleared and did they come back? Is the car running well without codes? Also have you had the battery checked? Improper battery voltage will cause strange errors to come up. You can get it checked at any PepBoys, AutoZone, Advance Auto and Sears.

 

Also check very carefully there's no damp/water in the trunk (remove spare) as it plays havoc with the whole car electrics.

 

Yes Gus, i did clear the codes & yes they came right back. Just bought a brand new battery when i purchase the vehicle because the car was sitting for over 6 months.

Jag V8 the car is very dry, the trunk and also the under the hood.

 

did you change the oil?

 

Yes Gus, I did change the oil( $80 at Valvoline) also I had them change the air filter, clean out the gearbox, ( I think, they said it was located in the middle of the car towards the back )and I had the fuel injectors cleaned. I also went to another shop and had all the spark plugs and
coils changed,the Throttle body cleaned and the camshaft replaced.

It seems the more i try the worst it gets. Paid 5K for the car and already put half of that into it. Is it possible that one of the codes could cause other codes to pop up? If so, what do i do now? Just want to be able to cruise without the fear of stopping at a red light and wonder will i be able to take off when it turns green at a normal speed and not below 10mph (when the "Red" "fail sfe engine light" comes on)

Please help!

 

stick with it Kelsey............the guys here will help you sort it for sure.

 

I hate to be repetitious but are you getting the same codes every time or are these all that you were told over the period of time it has been worked on? From what you are saying a lot was done and want to know what codes came up when or were they all at the same time.

Have they checked the plugs on the camshaft position sensor?

 

Hi Gus,

Im just happy that you are replying so be as repetitious as you want. Far as the plugs on the camshaft sensor ???????? I have no idea! But I have tried resetting the codes and disconnecting the battery cable but the codes just pop back up. Even took the liberty of buying my own diagnostic tester from AutoZone. I still get codes P0795, P1383, P1380, P102 and P 1576. From the code P1576, I know i need a new APP because i tried spraying it with an electrical spray but that didn't help. I think I would need to place the solenoid C from the code P0795. But Im not sure where to start or what to do so that I can keep the things that i already replace, from going out or bad again. Also wanting to avoid any expensive/unnecessary tasks.


Thanks a bunch guys!

 

I am not sure what and why you are getting the codes but will look again and give you a little info. Check your PM

 

Kelsey, try to get a look at the wiring harness at the rear of the engine. There is a large round bracket surrounding the injection pressure sensor. See if the harness is positioned such that it presses on the edge of the bracket, possibly getting cut into by the metal. That's the only place I can think of that might have all those circuits in the same area. Hopefully the wires are only chafed and not cut through completely.

Worth a try.

Cheers,

 

HEY! XJRGUY! That's my suggestion! Ok, so it's what I recommend to to everyone with an early 3.0 that starts throwing crazy codes and goes berserk. Those wires chaffing on the fuel connection guard sent me on all sorts of wild goose chases.

 

Kelsey W.... This isn't going to solve your issue.. I'm just going to make a point and extend my hand....

Please, one of the fatal flaws that people make about codes it that they actually tell you what part to replace... They don't....sort of...

See, all the OBD codes do are tell you what signal device (ie sensor) is "out of range" or not sending a signal.. These are starting points for diagnosis... Remember, for example, a code for the APP sensor simply means that the computer doesn't see a value that it expects from that sensor. Yes, it could mean the sensor itself is bad, or it could be something as simple as a faulty connector... Too many times people just buy the part, or authorize the repair, that a "code told them too" without checking first..

In your case, do the codes line up with an actual running issue... Or .... does the car run fine until POP..It throws a bunch of codes? If that is what it does, more than likely it is a wiring issue. That is why most of the experienced users are telling you to check for things like water, battery condition, and chafed wires.

I see you are in Cleveland.... I'm not far from you, hailing from Akron.. I am not a master tech in any stretch but do work on my own stuff. I would be willing to lend you a hand with figuring this out, so contact me if you wish. Between the people on here that know WAY more than me on the electrical systems and my abbility to help navigate around the car, we may just find an easy fix...
... I just wish the Benz community was more helpful.....

 

I've seen that very wiring harness / bracket reported as an issue before so I agree it's #1 suspect.

BTW, Jeff's offer is a really GOOD one. I'd take him up on it if I could and needed to. +1 on his explanation about codes. They are hints. Often right, but not always.

As a rule of thumb, go for the gearbox last. It can be upset by an engine issue (due to e.g. jerking).

 

The codes were a little confusing and it was the reason for no real definitive answer at the moment. Ask questions and gather more information not everything is black and white. Steve, thanks for the input.

Just a note; that bracket is easier to remove than it is to reinstall.

 

You're welcome........let's hope it pans out.

The misconception with fault codes is that they tell you what's wrong. Right there is where people get derailed. They don't tell you what's wrong, they tell you what SYSTEM thinks something is amiss. That still has to be INTERPRETED as one piece of the puzzle.

Here's an example.

Cold morning, guy tries to start his car and it won't start. For whatever reason he's flooded his car, doesn't matter the cause. He finally gets the car started and off he goes. Later that day, or maybe the next morning, Check Engine Light comes on, car has been running fine. ?????
So he gets the codes read and there is a purge valve fault code stored. The uninitiated garage tech says, "You need a Purge Valve". And so it goes.

No, he doesn't need a purge valve. Remember the flooded engine?? What happens with a flooded engine.......gas gets in the oil, right? I'll shorten this up. The purge system is there to carry fuel vapor from the canister to be burned in the engine, when the time is right. The gas in the oil is also fuel vapor that gets into the engine through the breather system. So the system turns the purge system on and off as it normally does, but it keeps seeing fuel vapor as detected by the oxygen sensors. It says, hmmmmm, I keep shutting off the purge, but the vapor is still there. I'm going to turn on the light because I can't turn the purge off, must have a failed purge valve. As you can see, that's not correct, but that's the logic built into the system, and how it works sometimes. In real life we have to actually test that valve ourselves to see if it can be CONFIRMED as failed.

Long winded I know, but it makes the point. Codes are only a guide to help narrow the diagnostic starting point. We still have to take it from there.

Cheers,

 

Hello all,

Sorry for just now gettin back, had a lot to do these past 24hrs. I First would like to thank everyone for their input, im gettin more answers to my question from you guys than the dealership .
Steve you have gave me something else to check out because the dearlership never told me that it could be an electrical issue, they probably knew that but wanted me to let them fix it ( Who Knows). I can check it out first thing tomorrow morning because it's raining like cats & dogs today. Not sure if i should go back to the places that i took it to ( Firestone, NTB, etc...) but maybe this time i could have better luck if they think i know what im talking about .

Thank you Jagtastic & JagV8 for the recommendations.

Gus im not sure what PM is but if you give me a second im pretty sure i can fiqure it out.

Jeff, As soon as i start the car i get a noise coming from the under the hood, (that i am sure of) but it's towards the back of the engine under the car (if that makes sense) and as soon as i accelerate, i get the "Failsafe Engine Mode" across the dash and the car doesn't want to pick up speed at first but then it takes off. Confusing i Know, try actually having to drive it this way. After about a mile or two "Gearbox Fault" comes on (and the car jerks when it comes on, EVERYTIME) but if i hit the reset button she "Coast" so smoothly, until the lights come back on.

I want to be prepared when i walk into this shop tomorrow, so let me get this right.......


I want them to check the wiring harness and see how it is positioned, if the bracket that surrounds the injection pressure sensor is chafing/cutting the wires, I then need to replace the wires and test to see if i get any electrical fault???????


Hope all goes well, Wish me luck everyone.

 

PM = private (or personal) mail

The site lets people send mails and keeps them in site mailboxes. Top right of a page shows Notifications and if non-zero have a look and see.

 

2000 Jaguar 'S' Type - Failsafe Engine Mode...... message came up on ash and engine would not start..... My mechanic and I tried for 2 days and the mechanic had a brainstorm to check the fuses.... 20 amp fuse replaced and problem solved.... Always check your fuses FIRST
New to forum but appreciate all the info I have seen