I'll try and give as many details without boring you to death. First off this car just had the new engine installed so all the fluids were drained and I filled the cooling system (only took around 5 liters) and then the other fluids, power steering, transmission.
As soon as i connected the battery the fan came on full speed, I pulled the 80 amp fuse to check the rest of the electrical system. replaced the fuse (fan back on full speed) fired the car up and turned the heater on full, waited for the trans to come to temperature and topped off the fluid. while I was doing this I kept an eye on the coolant expecting it to drop.
With the cap off the thermostat housing I can see good flow, both hoses get hot, and temp gauge stays in the middle without moving.
If I turn the engine off the fan stays full blast. I checked the plugs and everything was put back, it used to blow hot air and now only luke warm. the hoses to and from the small (pump) are not hot, the hoses around the 2 solenoid looking things at lower passenger side behind the fan. I looked for some way to try and bleed the system and cannot find any way to do this.
Would an air lock cause the fan to run all the time, I would have thought the opposite and the air never getting hot would stop the fan from coming on.
Before the usual suggestion I cannot download the manual, my computer does not let me (PPC mac without the ability to run windows) on dial up means no way to download despite trying and blowing my download usage twice, it's pretty frustrating when someone always chimes that response. I would happily buy a downloaded manual from someone if they would be so kind as to burn it for me.
So right now I have a radiator fan running full blast and a heater running warmish. Any thoughts if I can get my heater purged of air the fan will behave? And any thoughts on bleeding the system would be great.

 

Bearing in mind that the cooling system capacity is 10ltrs, the first thing I would be doing is to check/bleed/top-up the coolant.

Dave

 

You can get a manual on CD from such as ebay. It has vast numbers of files which are mainly text (in a funny format, SGML) so you can text search through them and read them though it's painful. This means you do not need windoze but suffer somewhat.

5l sounds way too low so I suppose major airlock somewhere. Some have said jacking front up at one side or just parking on a steep incline can help. But I never heard of having so little coolant at that point.

 

lots of squeezing of hoses and coaxed just over 7l into it. leaving it tonight and will try and run it up to temp a few times, just worried about the fan running all the time now.

 

If you just replaced the engine, 5L would have been very low. Even 7L might be low, so keep an eye on it. The fan was running full time because it was unhappy with the temp due to low coolant. You might be in for days of squeezing hoses etc.

The temperature gauge is irrelevant because it holds at "normal" until you reach 235F ... if it is the same as on the XK and XJ. Furthermore, the sender is at a high point so that if the coolant drops away from it, it actually reads low.

 

Many thanks for Gerald for the loan of the necessary files, I just want to make sure that I have this right as I have a 2004 manual. I still have the fan on full all the time and looking at the manual it is controlled by the ECT, the air con pressure, and the trans oil temp. Now the trans was never an issue and full of new fluid, the ECT seems good, all hoses hot, heater works well, the level is correct and I have coaxed as much fluid in there as is possible (around 8.5 liters) now as I swapped the engine the air con was discharged and I'm yet to refill it. would this result in the rad fan being on full tilt all the time including when the engine is off. I have to pull the 80 amp fuse every time I park up to stop it from draining the battery. Would this theory hold true, and if so would it be the same for the 2000 4.0 V8 as I'm using the 2004 data and that's a 4.2 and I don't know if the system is exactly the same.

 

The Jaguars of those years run the air conditioning compressor all the time, and it may have an effect on the fan if it is unfilled because the pressure sensor will sense that it is not in operating range. Try using the air conditioning override on the climate control center to turn the compressor off. Or, turn the heating system off completely. See what happens then.

 

I don't think it will run the compressor without a/c gas because the hilo pressure switch will in effect say not to. It also won't leave the fan on indefinitely without a reason.

Cut/chafed wiring?

 

i'll put my money on a failed temperature sensor or damaged/incorrect wiring to the sensor, i used to find this happened a lot on older cars i used to work on.

 

I think this sentence is key. Possibly a wire was pinched or misconnected during the engine swap.

 

Could it be the fan control module has a problem?

 

If not already noted above - you need to properly bleed the entire cooling system utilizing the bleed hose next to the master cylinder - any other method will just simply not work... once you properly bleed the cooling system and the fans are running full blast - look at the fan control module as pointed out by Six Rotors...

 

So some additional information, spent some time bleeding the system, but the pipes to the heater were cold, now they are really hot, but the pipe from the motor is cold. On further investigation this pump has no voltage going to it, it has continuity with ground on the black lead, but the red/yel no voltage. Putting a 12v supply made no difference, the motor refused to run. Opinion suggests the lack of coolant would make no difference in this case but I think I'm going to recharge the A/C just in case. When I first drove the car (for 40km before it was aparantly the engine was a goner it almost sweated me out so it has the ability to bake the interior. What is the switching mechanism for the secondary pump? I have gone through the wiring with a fine tooth comb and found nothing out of place! When I jump 12v to the pump it still does nothing! Any additional advice would be welcome

 

Check fuse(s)/relay(s) going to the aux heating circ pump - once you get power at the harness to the aux heating circ pump - replace the pump - sounds like the pump is shot and blew the fuse (more than likely) and/or relay.

 

My manual doesn't give me the fuse location for said pump, did they replumb the 2004 cars! Does that pump come on with the heating or the ignition?

 

I believe ignition...

 

No fuse for aux pump that i can detect, however relay no.5 does not switch power, relay works so still at a loss as to the actual wiring as there is nothing in the manual. I have hard wired the pump to a 12v source after striping it and it's working well, have heat in the car and lots of air purged from the system. Hard to believe the rad fan does not have a relay under the hood having an 80 amp fuse supplying power, but so far I have not found a relay that does anything for the fan, so far I'm thinking of hacking into the wiring and fitting a relay to control the fan from a switch inside, at least i can drive the thing that way, right now I have to unplug the fan everytime I stop. going to refil the AC and see if that does anything. Looking for a wiring schematic turned up a bigfat nothing so going to keep looking. I'm sure it's a sensor or something, however not knowing where they are located is a waste of time speculating about them. I may bite the bullet and buy the manual as the workshop manual is woefully lacking in any real information.

 

I have sent you an Electrical guide for the S-Type(unfortunately it is for a later model but it should give you an idea)---wiring diagrams etc.You dhould be careful chopping and cutting the wiring.Almost all the circuits are switched though the ground side.

 

JTIS is free on here and has the right elec guide.

 

JTIS does not work unfortunatly or |I would at least have a starting point. once again six rotors has been a valuable asset by providing the wiring diagram. While not solving the problems I have it has proved my thinking correct. Next step is to swap out the original ECT sensor for the original one. The Aux pump relay does not have the earth pin switching so I have bypassed the relay, it works great except I need an ignition power source rather than direct feed, but I'm proving problems first. The fan control module i pulled and the voltages check out so its getting a bad signal so I'm thinking the ECT is not allowing voltage to be seen triggering the coolant fan. Sounds good in practice, at worse I can run 5 volts to the sensor and see if that does anything. Being a plastic pipe I can't see how it switches to earth unless it does this via the coolant itself. Last play before I put a relay inline of the fan power and use a switch to turn it on. The aux pump is easy as I can simply find an ignition feed to turn it on and have it running constantly while the engine is running. I have to do some playing to fit the remote starter so I may as well find a way to run wires trough the engine compartment.