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Fans Running hard after a few miles

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Old 01-06-2022, 06:17 AM
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Default Fans Running hard after a few miles

Hi All

I need some help with a cooling issue. Apologies if i have posted this in the wrong place. I recently bought (three weeks ago) a 2005 S Type R with 93k miles and since I've had it, after a few miles the radiator fans start running hard. At tick over from cold there is no such issue, which I assume is because the engine isn't under load,

I had a small split in a heater pipe which was weeping and was causing the coolant to drop, this has now been fixed and the coolant level is stable and there is no and hasn't been any white smoke from the tail pipes, however as stated, the fans run hard after even a few miles when the engine is up to temp.

The ambiant winter temp in the UK is about 4 degrees C at present and I have used a thermometer and checked the fluid in the expansion tank whilst the fans a running and it is 95 degrees C, which should be the right temp for the thermostat to open, all pipes seem warm (the ones I can reach) although some of them are firm (not soft to the squeeze test) so there is pressure.

Any Idea's? I am going to remove and test for a bad thermostat this weekend and I have already decided to put an upgraded radiator in, but should I be worried its something more serious like a head gasket failing? and looking to trading standards to get my money back from the dealer?

I don't panic easily, but the thought of head gasket going pop is enough to concern me and if this is happening now mid winter, with the summer temp it is likely to much worse.
 
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Old 01-06-2022, 08:05 AM
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Default Fans Running hard after a few miles

Hi All

I need some help with a cooling issue. Apologies if i have posted this in the wrong place. I recently bought (three weeks ago) a 2005 S Type R with 93k miles and since I've had it, after a few miles the radiator fans start running hard. At tick over from cold there is no such issue, which I assume is because the engine isn't under load,

I had a small split in a heater pipe which was weeping and was causing the coolant to drop, this has now been fixed and the coolant level is stable and there is no and hasn't been any white smoke from the tail pipes, however as stated, the fans run hard after even a few miles when the engine is up to temp.

The ambiant winter temp in the UK is about 4 degrees C at present and I have used a thermometer and checked the fluid in the expansion tank whilst the fans a running and it is 95 degrees C, which should be the right temp for the thermostat to open, all pipes seem warm (the ones I can reach) although some of them are firm (not soft to the squeeze test) so there is pressure.

Any Idea's? I am going to remove and test for a bad thermostat this weekend and I have already decided to put an upgraded radiator in, but should I be worried its something more serious like a head gasket failing? and looking to trading standards to get my money back from the dealer?

I don't panic easily, but the thought of head gasket going pop is enough to concern me and if this is happening now mid winter, with the summer temp it is likely to much worse.
 
  #3  
Old 01-06-2022, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Burty
Hi All

I need some help with a cooling issue. Apologies if i have posted this in the wrong place. I recently bought (three weeks ago) a 2005 S Type R with 93k miles and since I've had it, after a few miles the radiator fans start running hard. At tick over from cold there is no such issue, which I assume is because the engine isn't under load,

I had a small split in a heater pipe which was weeping and was causing the coolant to drop, this has now been fixed and the coolant level is stable and there is no and hasn't been any white smoke from the tail pipes, however as stated, the fans run hard after even a few miles when the engine is up to temp.

The ambiant winter temp in the UK is about 4 degrees C at present and I have used a thermometer and checked the fluid in the expansion tank whilst the fans a running and it is 95 degrees C, which should be the right temp for the thermostat to open, all pipes seem warm (the ones I can reach) although some of them are firm (not soft to the squeeze test) so there is pressure.

Any Idea's? I am going to remove and test for a bad thermostat this weekend and I have already decided to put an upgraded radiator in, but should I be worried its something more serious like a head gasket failing? and looking to trading standards to get my money back from the dealer?

I don't panic easily, but the thought of head gasket going pop is enough to concern me and if this is happening now mid winter, with the summer temp it is likely to much worse.
a few things to consider;

Blue chemical co2 indicator kit from ebay 5pounds to check for gasket leaks

check the coolant temp sensors

Do a coolant flush

i guess the radiator hoses get warm and hardish?

the hoses shouldn't be stone hard at squeezing
 
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Old 01-06-2022, 10:50 AM
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@Burty, did you bleed the cooling system correctly once the repairs were completed?

If the radiator fan (cooling module) continues to run, there is either air trapped in the system, or the thermostat is sticking closed.

Here is a link to the Workshop Manual for the X202:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/aq3872pbu5...kshop.pdf?dl=0
 
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2022, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Burty
and I have already decided to put an upgraded radiator in
Where are you getting an upgraded radiator from ? Unless you mean just replacing it.
 
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Old 01-06-2022, 08:37 PM
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read the actual temp data using a $5 elm scanner
 
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Old 01-06-2022, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Robinus
Where are you getting an upgraded radiator from ? Unless you mean just replacing it.
all over ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROW-Alumi...-127632-2357-0
 
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Old 01-07-2022, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Burty
I need some help with a cooling issue. .....
I've merged your two separate threads on this topic.

Graham
 
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Old 01-07-2022, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by xalty
Is this upgraded ? Looks standard.
 
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Old 01-07-2022, 10:05 AM
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Read all the sensors you can grasp via OBD.

If waiting for an OBD device, use ETM (see my sig) for ECT (ditto).
 
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Old 01-09-2022, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Robinus
Is this upgraded ? Looks standard.
Looking at it, it's got alu side tanks so those little spoiled brats wont crack.


Originally Posted by xalty
looks good.
there is one MAJOR thing when picking S type radiators which mention XF compatibility too:

transmission fluid cooler inside the side-tank can be linear or cylindrical.

S types fluid lines have longer ends than the XF ones, and if you get the cylindrical cooler installed in the radiator, they wont fit all the way in without some custom extensions:


Extension installed

Linear cooler which is deep enough, but also demonstrating the extensions

You can see the cooler inner wall there. These s type ends wont fit (seal not in the pic)

 
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Old 01-09-2022, 02:47 PM
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Early X200s had a separate radiator between the main radiator and the air conditioning condenser for both gearbox and power steering fluid cooling. If one has an early X200, they should make sure the radiator is correct for their VIN without any fluid lines.
 
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  #13  
Old 01-10-2022, 04:10 AM
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CHR Racing in the Czech Republic do a full aluminum / -minium radiator replacement for the S Type R.

I don't think it is upgraded in terms of performance, but hope fully its a stronger build and its Alu so it shouldn't rust or get bulging bottom through age (it happens to us all!)
 

Last edited by Burty; 01-10-2022 at 04:20 AM. Reason: add images
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Old 01-10-2022, 04:29 AM
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*UPDATE*

So I took the thermostat out over the weekend and did the less than scentific test of boiling the thermostat in a pan and it appears she is a little sticky. I ran the car up to temp and checked the temp of the coolant when the fans were coming on, it was around 90-95 degrees C, at this temp in the pan, the thermostat had barely opened a mm, at boiling + it had opened maybe 2.5 mm, I'm happy to be corrected but i think this is reacting a little slowly, so I think there is a chance that the fars are kicking in quicker than the thermostat is opening. With the touch test (also scientific) the pipe was also barely luke warm on the thermo-side when the fans were running hard.

Whilst this is not conclusive, i'm going to take a punt on £55 for an OEM from Jaguar rather than keep guessing.
 
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Old 01-10-2022, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Burty
*UPDATE*
Whilst this is not conclusive, i'm going to take a punt on £55 for an OEM from Jaguar rather than keep guessing.
are you talking about a new thermostat?

Iirc, the oem ones were Motorcraft. I dont know if ford kept the company alive.

Gates, Mann, Mahle are good oem quality manufacturing companies.
Buy one that opens 1*C earlier
i personally got a mahle one since I couldn't find gates in stock

btw,
be careful what radiator you buy
since you said you have a STR 2005, i assume its zf6hp26 automatic tranny, and that one has the ATF cooler in the sidetank?
 

Last edited by elDariusVargas; 01-10-2022 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 01-10-2022, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by elDariusVargas
are you talking about a new thermostat?

Iirc, the oem ones were Motorcraft. I dont know if ford kept the company alive.

Gates, Mann, Mahle are good oem quality manufacturing companies.
Buy one that opens 1*C earlier
i personally got a mahle one since I couldn't find gates in stock

btw,
be careful what radiator you buy
since you said you have a STR 2005, i assume its zf6hp26 automatic tranny, and that one has the ATF cooler in the sidetank?
Yeah a new thermo from Jaguar, it is a Gates I believe as Jaguar have said the original was discontinued and this is their listing for an alternative. Euro car parts have a thermo for £7, I'm half tempted to put that in for a day to see if it makes any difference? Not for a long term solution, but if I'm still having issues its on to the next possible culprit?

I checked the rad and apparently it is compatible with the ZF auto.
 
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Old 01-11-2022, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Burty
So I took the thermostat out over the weekend and did the less than scentific test of boiling the thermostat in a pan...
This is a very good test. I have learned the hard way to always test a new thermostat before installation. I have found several bad thermostats this way. The brand didn't seem to matter, OEM, Motorcraft, Stant, etc. I've found the accuracy to be so sporadic that I won't install a new one without testing it first. I always test the old one, too (like you did), to get an idea of how it was behaving.
 
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Old 01-11-2022, 01:15 PM
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Yes check for the transmission cooler lines in that new radiator. Your pictures don't show it but they could be there. Really looks like a hi quality radiator too. No plastic side tanks to leak or that crummy pressed together seam with an O-ring to leak.
.
.
.
 
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Old 01-18-2022, 04:48 AM
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Final update... head gasket has failed and is leaked exhaust gas in to the coolant... which is fun. So engine rebuild now and new radiator
 
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