Best to clear something up here.

"She's lucky I'm in love with her...."

You're talking about your mom right ... Ixnay on the geezer home stuff

Its Mother's Day!

 

I think he meant the STR as the one thats lucky he's in love with because of the amount of trouble for getting the hose replaced. LOL.

 

I thought the reference to "geezer home" was meant to be the nursing home?

Happy Mothers Day!!!

 

OK, I'll try this once again. I was hoping he was referring to his mom when he said it's a good thing I lover her. It could have been the STR as it was a bit ambiguous. Taking her back to geezer home isn't the way to describer it on Mother's day. And it was meant as a tease.

 

LOL! Bob, Of course I love my mom. I drove 50 miles to pick her up then drove her home in the same day (100 miles). She does live in a geezer home and it sucks there. I left specific instructions for my family to pop me in a boat and head me out to sea with enough booze, weed, and spam for a month waiting for the "Perfect Storm". That autah do it? RE: "She's lucky I love her", I was thinking of my STR cause I've been dumping $$$ into this machine. Will install Bilsteins ($435 for four and another $400 for install and alignment), now must pay $$$ to have s/c removed, rebuilt/port/polish, then reinstalled, replace coolant line under s/c. I'm her bitch!

 

ROFL! Seth you are a wild man!

Whatever you do - make sure you get this fixed quick, we need you and your car for the Pittsburgh event on June 5th!!!

 

LOL! Hi Chris. How ya doing bud? I know I'm a nut. Don't worry about me, save yourself. The Bilstiens struts will be installed soon but replacing the coolant hose under the s/c after the meet.

 

I'm using a snow performance progressive alky kit. We'll have to compare the turn on point and full on points as well as nozzle sizes. I wish I had some software to monitor all of this stuff. That is why I'm so slow on any type of dyno #'s or performance comparisons. I'm definately starting to think that I should tighten up the plugs when I have a chance or go to one that is more resistant of spark blowout to be on the safe side.

I could definately use the software to not only handle this, but see if the snakebite is putting out more boost. I definately can feel it in the mid range, but the top end power isn't there right now. I also have a few other mods to do to my car such as intake elbow and replace the stock air box. I'd like to see data logging on both of those as well.

I'll definately be tuning in to see how your car does!

 

I am thinking about doing my meth kit first just to see how it affects stock boost and how it fairs as the boost is increased. I am thinking the jag may like something in the 350-375ml size assuming your using a 250psi pump which your snow should be. I also am going to try both meth and water. Keep in mind water will dissipate heat almost as good just not increase octane. Since my car so far is already a little rich I don't need or want the added octane.

Its always best if you can get the jets in past the intercoolers. I havent dove into it yet but it looks like thats going to be hard/impossible on the jag. If you drop the IA then pass that same air over a heat exchanger that's lets say 80' well your just heating that air back up. it also doesn't atomize as well going all the way through the intake track, blower and the coolers. Hey if it has to it has to but I would always much rater get it post intercooler.

I plan to use a simple boost switch where at say 5psi it sprays until i get back under 5 and team that with an arm switch. This combo has worked the best in the past for me and you have the option of dialing the boost switch in and out from 1psi -max boost as needed. As for the plugs you should hear/feel/see on the chart if its breaking up and losing spark at boost. Normally I don't get into spark blowout with coil pack cars until 20psi but if the jag is gaped wide it could happen.

I would dyno it with A/F, boost, and rpm with and without the spray and with water and alky to see where your at.

I am trying to get a Mafioso elbow as well but he must be busy as he hasn't been on in while. I hope to have some more dyno numbers and maybe some track numbers as well, soon as I have time to get some stuff installed on my car

 

I'm really luvin this thread. Something for all is gunna come out of it.

 

How much do these kits run? How hard are they to install?

 

I like the kit at coolingmist.com but a lot of companys make them. Mine was 250ish bucks. Install is as easy as mounting the pump, tank (or use your windscreen washer tank) taping the elbow, intake pipe, etc... Dependant on you placement. Hooking the lines which are easy push fit, running a ground and power and tap a boost source. Maybe an hour install, a few at most. Then 30min or so on the dyno to dial it in.

I would wait and see how our numbers turn out. Then all the guess work will be done for you and you will know what jet, placments ect... And how the SRT will respond. I have seen 30rwhp on more then a few cars of course if you already had a ver good intercooler it would be much less. If I get 10-15 and more consistancy in temps I would be more then happy.

I would also venture a guess it will work better with a 1.5# pully and even better with a 3#.

Jim

 

I went with the 2 stage system since that's what I'm accustomed to using with my centri blown cars where boost ramps up more gradually and linearlly. With our cars where it's almost instant, a maf based 2 stage kit or even a hobbs switch set at a certain psi will work fine. Boost is pretty much instant with these setups.

If you want to go post intercooler, it will increase the complexity but will definately perform better. You would probably want to do a "fogger" type setup due to how the air goes after the intercooler. There isn't much space for air and water to mix. Some cylinders will get more than others. In addition, you'll need a solonoid to open and close when the system is on because that part of the instake tract is post internal bypass and sees vaccuuum all the time.

375 is the safe bet. If it works well then I definately don't see the need to go larger. Our HP level is right on the boarder of where you could go either way and not be tottally wrong(especially considering eatons run really hot). I talked to Michael Plummer and got the recommendation. He is the Mustang alky injection tuning guru.

I totally agree with you on not adding more fuel if we're rich all ready. I have a re-geared blower so I'd like to get some octane to battle the crappy 91 octane CA gas, but I'm probably adding too much fuel with the bigger 625 nozzle. I'm thinking it's time to lean it out.

Hopefully some of this helps. It's good to see someone else with alky knowledge on the forum.

 

It's super easy to install. Mine took about 2-3 hours and I definately wasn't pushing it. I used the windshield wiper tank to hold the fluid. That way when I'm low, the dummy light comes on.

Cost is about $250 for a hobbs type system (set on point) or about $400 for a progressive system where it ramps up. Either will work great on our cars.

Hopefully in the next few weeks you'll see more info on nozzle sizing based on our results.

 

True I didn't think about your octane limited gas there. A 50/50 mix might be the way for you to go to get better cooling and some added points dependant on the A/F your seeing.

I agree the jag setup is going to make pre SC a lot easier. Could split the diffrent and go in post bower pre intercooler in the spliter? I figure it this is the case I will just go pre blower to take advantage of the cooler blower temps and small boost gain of spraying into the SC. Where are yours taped?

I agree your vett would need a progressive kit for sure. I am thinking the jag may do fine with just the hobbs. If not I can always add the controller.

Thanks for the info. It's always nice to have some history going into something. I think this could be a big help with the issues that plauge us. Running a 112 at 13psi much less 15+ psi is on the edge anything should help. An ice can in the coolant loop would do the trick but since this is not a race car I am trying to stick to things geared for the street.

I am attacking cooling first. Once that's sorted I will work on boost. A huge FMIC would do the trick

 

Wouldn't the mix erode the supercharger screws?

 

Nope they will be fine. Some early SC like pre 1997ish jad coatings that the meth/alky affected but modern coatings do fine. I have seen a 112 off a cobra that had who knows how may gallons sprayed through it and looked like new.

You should see the internalls of a water/meth motor. Steam cleaned LOL!

 

Ok, hurry up and figure out the best one so I can go buy it :P

thanks guys for all your research!!

 

Just to expand a little more on the meth/alky use. I am use to using 100% meth in drag cars. You will hear about meth being corrosive and needing top end lubricant on these cars running meth as the only fuel. Most racing meth has no lubricant in it, unlike the pump gas or even leaded race fuel that is gas based. We add top end lub into the 55gal drums and drain the tanks and fog the cylinders between races to keep things from rusting/corroding up. This is only need for full meth fuel power cars. Also keep in mind our fuel usage is measured in GPM so were moving a lot of fuel.

All that to say this. The small amount of meth or alky these kits run atomized into droplets isn't a concern. You are using gas with detergents and lubricants in it to protect the top end and the blower is coated the intercoolers could conceivably get a white film at the very worse but I would bet the farm against that at 300-600 ml mixed with water.

The injected outlaw blower cars run about 10gallons of 100% meth per pass through the blower and I have never seen a blower issue with these cars either. Just to add a little more info on not only the blower but the rest of the top end as well.

These blowers love meth!

 

Jesus H! Just the motor for the STR.