I've said what I had to say on the subject..... BUT chances are its gonna short when the heat is on hot. Dont forget the water pump is mechanically driven, aka coolant flow increases with speed.

Sure someone could have swapped the DCCV with a used one. And not done the RCCM, but I thought you fixed the RCCM? On that note, I need to buy a lottery ticket, I heard the prize is 235 million this week. Because, as you know anything is possible.

If that's the case though. Why is it still misbehaving? Did you miss a burnt trace? Miss something else?

It's not the loom. It's not the RCCM unless you don't trust your repair skills. What's left?

Just my .02 of a dollar on the subject.

Take care,

George

 

George, I do appreciate your advice and your logic is sound, but tests of the DCCV show it to be as it should be. If there were no issues and I tested the DCCV just as a matter of course, I would pass it as working.

I bought a replacement RCCM, it gave the same results more or less. Therefore, my repair looks to be OK and the fuses should prevent any overload if the DCCV is faulty afterall.

If the DCCV had been replaced before but the RCCM had not been repaired, that could explain the legacy burns on the board. Bear in mind that I have not long had the car and until Mrs Stype wanted cool air one day, we didn't notice there was an issue except the car did mist up a lot.

By the way, Mrs Stype tells me to get a new DCCV too....

 

The heaters appear to be working OK now. The intermittent nature of my readings made me look at the connector to the DCCV more closely. I noticed that if I touched it, there was a slight clonk. Similar to the clonk when I grounded the DCCV, which was the soloniod operating.
After hours of fiddling, it seems the connection between the DCCV pins and the harness connector was iffy. I bent the pins to get a better contact and voila!

Thanks for all the help and asistance chaps, it's not always the obvious fault, so worth adding this one to the list.

 

Thanks for reporting back and very good catch on the DCCV plug.
That would be a nice cheap fix too!
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