front lower ball joints easy fix
#1
front lower ball joints easy fix
Well i replaced the front lower ball joints in my 2000 stype 3.0 and it was a pretty easy job the hardest part was the removal of the hub from the knuckle. Napa Canada gave me the part number for moog lower ball joint for the Ls and then i got them to cross reference the part number for my jaguar and its the same number moog K500084. Now that that's done I need to change the lower strutt bushings. I am lead to believe that they can be pressed out and then in. I can't find a part number for the bushings or even a source. Any info would be greatly appreciated
Richard
Richard
#2
front strut Bushing
Time to replace the lower front strutt bushings. I just started looking with my local auto parts suppliers and so far no luck finding any available part for the lower bushing if any one has any insight into a source for a lower bushing let me know
Thanks in advance Richard
Thanks in advance Richard
#3
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Just a bit more information about ball joints. The early 1999-2002 cars came with 14mm ball joints. These proved to be not up to the task and there was a running change to the 16mm version sometime during the 2002 model year. So be sure and check. They will not interchange without replacing the entire spindle.
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#5
No problem pressing in the lower ball joints. They went right in. I used a ball joint press the press looks like a very heavy duty C clamp. Now I'm working on sourceing out lower front strut bushings. I think I have a part number that I think is the oem number W0133-1828560
Autopartswarehouse.com shows the part but they say it doesn't work on my s-type but talking to Sam at professional fleet services (watch his YouTube video) he says that he has put this part into a couple of s-types. I am going to call the dealer on Tuesday and do some more research (Monday being a statutory holiday)
I will update this thread when I have more info
Autopartswarehouse.com shows the part but they say it doesn't work on my s-type but talking to Sam at professional fleet services (watch his YouTube video) he says that he has put this part into a couple of s-types. I am going to call the dealer on Tuesday and do some more research (Monday being a statutory holiday)
I will update this thread when I have more info
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mommasjag (09-02-2012)
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#8
I used a fellow coworkers ball joint press. If i remember correctly the brand name is OTC. The unit worked but the rings that you use to press the old ball joint out would not fit between the ball joint and nuckle so i had to shim the ring away so that the old ball joint had room to travel out of the press fit. On the installing i couldn't just land the press on the new ball joint with the supplied pieces (again clearance to the knuckle) so i used a steel plate i shaped to fit correctly. When driving in the new ball joint make sure the start is square. If not loosen off the press. Relocate the press to press it square.press it square. Release the press relocate to center and proceed driving the ball joint in. Once you you see things are moving correctly drive the joint all the way in until you feel a noticeable increase in resistance. At the same time watch for the ball joint to bottom out on the knuckle. The increase in press resistance and visually seeing the joint bottom out i think is an important little detail. And of course use lock tight.
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OldMike (05-20-2012)
#9
Thanks again! That's a great write up about pressing ball joints. I'm going to start a new thread about presses so as not to hijack this thread about replacing ball joints.
Here's a link to the other thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...t-press-73607/
Here's a link to the other thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...t-press-73607/
Last edited by OldMike; 05-20-2012 at 08:33 AM.
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Richard from Fraser Valley (05-20-2012)
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I think you mean inner and outer tie rods. Lower ball joints do both sides.
I think the upper control arms are complete assemblies with a replaceable ball joint (which you will probably never have to do again) The real clunk noise from my front end was the sway bar bushings not the links but the bushings.
I put a pair of after market Moog ones in and at first they worked but I think I should of gone with the OEM ones. Before that I tried to find the clunk for a while and only figured it out when I unattached one of the sway bar links and gave the sway bar a shake and bingo that clunk noise.
On my s-type 3.0 the left side was easy but the right side took a little more work. What I had to do was unscrew the climate control valve system CCVS ( I think that's the proper name you'll find it on this web sight) .carefully move it up out of the way.
Then remove the CCVS mounting bracket which then makes it possible to replace the right bushing.
While your in there the links are probably toast to. Those you can get after market. One more thing. When you replace the upper control arm make sure you pre load the suspention to the normal ride hight before you tighten the bolts on the body side.
I hope that steers you in the right direction (pardon the pun) let me know how it goes. Richard
Last edited by JimC64; 09-05-2012 at 06:25 PM. Reason: create line breaks to make text more readable
#17
How many KM on your ride. I think you mean inner and outer tie rods. Lower ball joints do both sides. I think the upper control arms are complete assemblies with a replaceable ball joint (which you will probably never have to do again) The real clunk noise from my front end was the sway bar bushings not the links but the bushings. I put a pair of after market Moog ones in and at first they worked but I think I should of gone with the OEM ones. Before that I tried to find the clunk for a while and only figured it out when I unattached one of the sway bar links and gave the sway bar a shake and bingo that clunk noise. On my s-type 3.0 the left side was easy but the right side took a little more work. What I had to do was unscrew the climate control valve system CCVS ( I think that's the proper name you'll find it on this web sight) .carefully move it up out of the way. Then remove the CCVS mounting bracket which then makes it possible to replace the right bushing. While your in there the links are probably toast to. Those you can get after market. One more thing. When you replace the upper control arm make sure you pre load the suspention to the normal ride hight before you tighten the bolts on the body side. I hope that steers you in the right direction (pardon the pun) let me know how it goes. Richard
Last edited by prodigy215; 09-05-2012 at 06:25 PM.
#18
I was thinking the dealer being that the pieces are relitively cheap. If you go with rock auto let me know how it went. Thanks
Last edited by Richard from Fraser Valley; 09-05-2012 at 08:50 PM.
#19
Ok I'm looking for help wit my 01 s-type 4.0. So the front end was riding loose felt like I was on ice skates when I get her over 45-50 so I had the ball joint tightened,now the problem is back! Sooo how do I tell if my car should have been recalled and if I'm doing the repairs where should I get the parts or what are the best parts to get, I don't want to get the parts at the repair shop because of the mark up and I have seen some on ebay but I don't want cheap stuff that will break....help..please!
#20
Just a bit more information about ball joints. The early 1999-2002 cars came with 14mm ball joints. These proved to be not up to the task and there was a running change to the 16mm version sometime during the 2002 model year. So be sure and check. They will not interchange without replacing the entire spindle.
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