Front wheel bearing
#1
Front wheel bearing
I just changed a front wheel bearing. Pretty simple job with no special tools or skills required.
*Make sure you don't order the SKF hub. It won't fit! The rear is too deep and won't clear the lower balljoint bolt. I of course learned the hard way.
The Timken part works fine (also cheaper) and it looks like the Beck-Arnley also fits.
*Make sure you don't order the SKF hub. It won't fit! The rear is too deep and won't clear the lower balljoint bolt. I of course learned the hard way.
The Timken part works fine (also cheaper) and it looks like the Beck-Arnley also fits.
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bfsgross (07-21-2012)
#2
SKF wheel hubs
Too bad you found out about the SKF the hard way!!!!
This forum is the greatest thing but you have to spend some time to read
threads. Regardless of the titles sometimes they drift and give you important info you would be glad to have. A small sacrifice of time.
I avoided SKF wheel hubs for that reason. An old thread (can't remember which) warned against SKF due to offset problems so I bought 2 Timkin wheel hubs which are about to be installed.
Good Luck with your ride in the future matty427.
Thanks to All on JaguarForums
This forum is the greatest thing but you have to spend some time to read
threads. Regardless of the titles sometimes they drift and give you important info you would be glad to have. A small sacrifice of time.
I avoided SKF wheel hubs for that reason. An old thread (can't remember which) warned against SKF due to offset problems so I bought 2 Timkin wheel hubs which are about to be installed.
Good Luck with your ride in the future matty427.
Thanks to All on JaguarForums
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bfsgross (07-21-2012)
#3
Yep, but it seemed really straightforward and of course I wanted the best quality so ordered the most expensive - the SKF. Never thought to check on something like that. I'll know better in future.
BTW, a BFH is the only special tool req'd. I had to pound pretty hard on a chisle to get the steel hub out of the alum. housing. After 8 or 9 winters.....
BTW, a BFH is the only special tool req'd. I had to pound pretty hard on a chisle to get the steel hub out of the alum. housing. After 8 or 9 winters.....
#5
Bumping an old thread but...
For anyone who has done front wheel bearings on their s-type,
have you ever experienced any difficulty in seperating the 4-bolt wheel hub/bearing assembly from the knuckle/upright?
I can't get the front wheel bearing off! It's fused itself to the upright. Using all combinations of force, and can't seem to get it off... Any tricks or advicee anyone?
For anyone who has done front wheel bearings on their s-type,
have you ever experienced any difficulty in seperating the 4-bolt wheel hub/bearing assembly from the knuckle/upright?
I can't get the front wheel bearing off! It's fused itself to the upright. Using all combinations of force, and can't seem to get it off... Any tricks or advicee anyone?
#6
Yes, PB Blaster (not WD 40) spray around seized hub, tap with hammer, more PB Blaster again and again until the hub breaks free!
Unless you have access to a set of torches.
BTW PB Blaster is available at any auto parts stores or even K-Mart.
Unless you have access to a set of torches.
BTW PB Blaster is available at any auto parts stores or even K-Mart.
#7
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#10
I replaced mine with SKF. SKF VKBA3687
No problem at all, so what you state is not true!Well at least in my case. And all dimension were exactly the same as the OEM part. I measured everything before I put the replacement in.
Is your balljoint OEM? Because I can not see how it could ever touch the ball joint anyway unless you have got a very long stem which is not genuine.
No problem at all, so what you state is not true!Well at least in my case. And all dimension were exactly the same as the OEM part. I measured everything before I put the replacement in.
Is your balljoint OEM? Because I can not see how it could ever touch the ball joint anyway unless you have got a very long stem which is not genuine.
Last edited by Jochem00; 07-22-2012 at 12:01 PM. Reason: added SKF part number
#11
Yup, way ahead of you there, PB blaster is a staple of my tool kit.
I've got propane/plumbing torches at home, oxy acetylene sadly I only have at work, believe me, I was wishing for an oxy torch yesterday.
I left it over night after giving up yesterday, hopefully a fresh attempt at it today proves successful, otherwise... I'm afraid I'm going to have no choice but to remove the knuckle/upright from the car, take it into work tomorrow and press it out there...
#12
Update:
Tried as I might, could not for the life of me get the bearing separated from the knuckle/upright.
Gave up, removed the knuckle/upright from the suspension by removing the 3 ball-joints, put it on a hydraulic press and it pop'd right out. New one went in with ease.
Put everything back together today and all is well again.
I might tackle the front passenger side bearing next/soon, so I'll post up with details regarding how easy that one will prove to be.
Tried as I might, could not for the life of me get the bearing separated from the knuckle/upright.
Gave up, removed the knuckle/upright from the suspension by removing the 3 ball-joints, put it on a hydraulic press and it pop'd right out. New one went in with ease.
Put everything back together today and all is well again.
I might tackle the front passenger side bearing next/soon, so I'll post up with details regarding how easy that one will prove to be.
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