Hello guys,

I own a 2003 stype x202. Since two days ago I’ve been having intermittent rev drops while driving. Rpm will go down and then up, the car is like rocking back and forth. I have the following related fault code: B1201 - Fuel sender circuit failure. When turn the key I hear loud clicking noises coming from the rear.

I’ve read some posts and it seems very hard to change the fuel sender unit. So I’d like to ask, is it safe to drive in such conditions or should I not use the car?

And, what can I do to solve this fuel pump/sender problem?

in addition to the fault code B1201, I also see the following codes (unrelated I think):

U2510 - invalid data for vehicle security.
U1265 - Cool air servo motor circuit failure
B1947 - Climate control evaporator sensor circuit - short to ground
B1200 - Climate control push button - circuit failure
B1242 - Recirculating air flow door actuator - circuit failure

I’ve been experiencing lots of fog recently right after entering the car.

Also, before I buy it, the car sat for about 3 months, I even had to recharge the battery.

 

S-types don't like to sit around unused for months at a time; yours is hardly for first post with problems related to this situation. That said, it is usually the fuel pump that seeks early retirement after being left unused for an extended period of time, as opposed to the sender. The right-hand sender and pump are in one assembly.

The climate control DTCs could be old and are not a significant concern, but the U2510 is a bit more worrisome. Perhaps one of our electrical system mavens can chime in on this one...

 

If the car is losing power, I would not drive it until corrected. You don't want to have the engine die pulling out into traffic.

Can you read fuel pressure with your scanner? Can you duplicate the power loss from the comfort of your driveway? If not, try it on a deserted road and watch the fuel pressure reading. That should give you some idea if the pump is acting up.

The B1201 code may not be related to the pump operation. It may only be for the fuel quantity indication. Take a look in the workshop manual, linked near the bottom of this page:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Working on my tablet so can't view the huge PDF. Search for B1201 and the corresponding pinpoint tests should clarify if this code is related to pump operation.

One big clue is the loud clicking noises you reported. The pump is fairly quiet, so doubt that is it. Could be one (or more) of the relays in the trunk. Lift the trunk floor and see if the noise is any louder. If you need a test drive to duplicate the noise, fold down the rear seat backs so you can hear better.

If the pump is failing, don't panic. It's fairly easy to change. We can walk you through that once we confirm what's really going on.

 

Hello, thank you for your reply. I’ll buy a multimeter and do the tests and the other things your suggested. I’ll come back with the results when done.

 

Does the fuel gauge appear to operate correctly? If so, I wouldn't worry too much about chasing the B1201 code, at least for now. It's not causing the engine to cut out.

One quick thought: When was the last time you filled the tank? If the gauge is reading high, the tank may have less fuel than you'd think. A perfectly good pump could be running dry.

Doesn't explain the clicking noises, though. Just something to consider.

 

The gage seems to work fine. Last time I filled the tank was 6 days ago, I don’t think it’s empty, but there is a station very close to me, I’ll fill it and see.

I will also record the noises and share them.

 

Before performing any tests, fully charge the battery and check with a voltmeter there's a minimum of 12.6 volts available.

If the fuel pump has failed, it's a bit more difficult to change when the tank is full of fuel.

There should be around 3 bar (300 kPa) of fuel pressure with the ignition in the ON position prior to engaging the starter motor.

 

Hi Nbcat,

Actually, I forgot to mention that, but I suspected the battery, I checked it with iCarsoft, it was 11.86V. I then charged it fully but didn’t have the opportunity to drive the car.

Today I will receive the voltmeter I ordered, I’ll check with that as well and then drive the car to see how it goes.

I’m not entirely sure the iCarsoft device can read fuel pressure, we’ll see this evening.

 

Use a smart phone with the Torque app to connect to the PCM (ECM) with a Bluetooth interface through the OBD port. The app can provide fuel pressure and other real-time information such as coolant temperature.

 

I just measured the battery voltage, it is 11.78V. Whereas I fully charged it a few days ago. I guess the battery is done.

Also, I got some reads with ignition ON and after starting the engine

 

Yes, it would appear the battery is suspect and should be replaced prior to conducting any further diagnosis.

The fuel pressure at 378 kPa is a bit high with the ignition ON and the starter not engaged, but with low available voltage, some reading cannot be trusted.

 

I will change the battery then.

378 kPa is the reading with the started engaged.

 

Yes, I see you have 222 kPa prior to engaging the starter. Thanks for clarifying.

 

Hi again, I am thinking about buying a battery and changing it on my own. Do I have to follow a particular procedure for this?

Here is the battery I am thinking about buying https://www.auto-doc.be/exide/1128823?reviews=on

Note: I am not planning on keeping this car for a very long time by the way, 2-3 years max, still I want to take care of it until I sell it.

 

Just the safety ones: disconnect ground first. When reconnecting, ground last.

(So a slip of a tool to body metal & batt post can't short circuit.)

Charge the new batt fully first.

 

Hello again,

I’ve replaced the battery, fully charged it before installing it.

I still have the same issue unfortunately. I noticed that the issue starts happening when I am at speeds around 50kmph or more.

I have the voltmeter but I don’t really know where to start and to be honest where to read current/voltage exactly.

 

How much have you been driving the car? I had previously asked about topping off the fuel tank, in case the gauge was inaccurate and the pump was running dry. I didn't see any response indicating whether you've tried that or not.

 

You are right, sorry. I haven’t tried topping the fuel yet, because in case I needed to change the pump, I don’t have enough recipients to empty 60 liters of fuel.

I didn't drive the car much, 2 times (only 20km in total).

OK, I will top the tank and drive, and inform you.

 

Oops, I forgot NBCat had previously mentioned a full tank can be a problem if you do have to change the pump. I also forgot you have a scanner. Before filling the tank, try this instead: Connect the scanner so you can read live data. Go for a test drive on a quiet road. Do your best to duplicate the fault, and observe the fuel pressure while the engine is acting up. Bring a helper if needed, to watch the scanner.

If the fuel pressure value is good while the fault is active, fuel delivery is not the problem. If pressure drops, then the next step is to determine if the pump itself is acting up, or a good pump is running dry due to an inaccurate quantity indication.

 

So I’ve done this. Nothing happened! The fuel is at 1/4, I drove the car for about 30-40 minutes, urban and extra urban roads, nothing happened, the fuel pressure was in the 350-380 range during the whole drive.

I’ll try going to work with the car tomorrow.