Hello everyone. Newbie here with my first post. Regrettably it is about a problem.

I'm based in Australia, Queensland.

My 2005 S type V6 has developed an annoying habit of automatic failure every now and again. The warning "Gearbox Fault" comes up on the dash and the car goes into limp mode. A few minutes after a rest, it starts right up and off we go again.

I have heard that this is quite common with these Jags and that it is more than likely due to a faulty module in the gearshift. Is this correct?

And who was the bright spark who designed an automatic which a) can't be checked for fluid (easily) and can't be replenished (easily)?

I've owned many Jags including XK motors (yes, the head studs running through the water jacket (same bloke?) but always have rebuilt them myself.

So, before taking the car to the nearest Jaguar service department and opening the wallet, is there a simple(r) fix?

Thanks for any help.

 

Post in the S-Type section as your problem is very common. Without codes you will be shooting in the dark and be aware a normal code reader might not be able to see the Jaguar specific codes. Do you have the ability to read and clear DTC's?

The transmission fluid level check and fill are done as most transmission are today. No dipstick to prevent contamination. Also no one checked the fluid level anyway and finally the completely wrong idea pushed by car manufacturer's that fluid is somehow "Lifetime". When of course it's not!
So Jaguar had nothing to do with the dip stick or the lack of. They don't make transmissions.

There can't be a simple fix without data? So your answer is maybe or yes or no. We just can't tell.
Can you do the fluid check and change? That would be my first step after getting codes.
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Could even be one/both of the bolts (under car) securing the shift cable to the trans side. Or poor power e.g. low battery.

 

@Bazzarius, with the ignition in the OFF position, what is the voltage across the battery terminals when checked with a voltmeter?

Gearbox is a ZF 6HP26 manufactured by ZF Friedrichshafen AG and used by other manufacturers.

+1 on posting the DTCs stored in the system for help.

 

I have a brand new battery. I went for a drive today and the fault showed up on the dash, limp mode, stop car, re-start, off we go again.
My money is on the shift module. I've ordered another from the U.K. In the meantime, I think I will get the auto serviced and see if anything shows up with their diagnostics.

 

Good idea but why change parts before you know what the problem is?
I don't know what a shift module is?
Are you planning on changing the TCM or maybe the shift solenoids?

Make sure the shop has SDD or they also won't be able to see the transmission codes.
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Just because a battery is new doesn't mean it has the required available voltage. Quite often as a battery sits on the shelf at a parts house, it discharges and should be fully charged prior to installation into the vehicle. Use a voltmeter to verify there is a minimum of 12.6 volts available with the ignition OFF. If not, charge the battery for four to five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. Many electrical faults and random DTCs chased on these forums is the result of a failing or weak battery. Eliminating the battery as the potential cause is the first step to diagnosing the issue.

+1 on not throwing parts at the vehicle as guessing on a Jaguar can become quite expensive very fast.

 

My problem is that where I live in Queensland, Australia, there are no Jaguar dealers and auto service outfits won't touch Jags. The nearest specialist in European/Jags is 3.5 hour drive away. So after research I find that it could be the shifter. There's a switch on thr ight low down on the shifter unit which apparently often gives trouble. So I'm starting there. I could make the drive to Brisbane I guess if I take things carefully. Stop each time and restart the car. Could be an experience...

 

Hi I'm a new member with the same car 2006 S-Type 3.0 with the same gearbox fault code. Any new updates on the problem yet?

 

Hi Benny,
No updates as such except that after a bunch of research, I have taken courage in both hands and am going to change the tranny oil and replace the filter/pan (plastic). There are some really good videos on YouTube of guys changing the pan out. Apart from the pesky filler plug on the side of the box next to the chassis rail (excellent design chaps...not) it all looks fairly straightforward. I have purchased a pressure pump with the correct hooked adapter to get the fluid into the box again so it's a Christmas break job I think. I have noticed that when the dreaded "gear jump" happens, stop, turn off and turn on again and the car drives fine again. So, I think my problem could be related to fluid which I am assuming has never been changed as the legend says "sealed for life". What they should say is "sealed for the life of the guarantee". I bought a shift module too but have not fitted it until I see what the fluid change brings. The videos all report problem solved so fingers crossed.

 

One point I hope is covered in the YouTube videos about changing the ZF gearbox fluid and pan is: always loosen the filler plug prior to draining the gearbox fluid.

There have been instances where one has drained the fluid only to find they cannot open the filler plug and thus must have the vehicle transported to a shop.

 

Yes, agree about LOOSENING the filler plug first for reason as above. Although, I tend to forget that each time. But even even though, I still manage to open my filler plugs (yesterday I opened the filler plug of X308 AFTER doing everything else). Note 1: Always apply plenty of WD40 before starting the filler plug challenge. Note 2: The emphasis is on LOOSENING, not removing! Because if you did not have a fluid leakage, the ATF will come shooting towards you, as the fluid is filled WHILE the engine is running to the point of drip out. I.e. if you open the plug without the engine running (car straight and level and secured on stands) the ATF level is way above the filler plug. Do a full flush by unscrewing one or both of the ATF-pipes going to the radiator. And hoses connected to those pipes and someone need to hold those pipes pointing into a big "bucket". At some models, the ATF comes from the transmission into the radiator at the upper and at some at the lower pipe. If you are not sure which one, it maybe possible to determine this with measuring the temperature on both pipes and comparing (the hotter one is coming from the transmission). If not, you could unscrew both pipes and connect hoses to both (leading to a bucket).

Oh, and there is no such thing as "sealed for life", there s only a "sealed for death"...
The "sealed for life"-fairytale came from vehicle manufacturers, not from transmission manufacturers.

 

Yep, sound advice on the filler plug. One of the guys makes his own tool too out of a number 8 hex allen key, to fit his spanner. What I don't understand is that it's a ZF as fitted to loads of other cars like Fords. Why I can't get an auto transmission outfit to look at it is a mystery to me. Even my local Supercheap Auto is offering to reset the codes for the box.

 

Have you spotted my thread already? It contains basically all the info you need to know...:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...s-type-264102/

I better repeat: Use nothing else but ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid. Do not believe fake claims of multi vehicle ATF producers. If you bought that already, return it. You will need about 14L for a full flush, thus I bought 20L. Source in AUS:

https://mjproducts.com.au/shop/zf-li...nge-rover-bmw/

Did you already write somewhere the mileage of your '05 3L S-Type?

My thread above reg. ATF change is done on my '04 3L S-Type - it is an "after facelift" model and it is identical to my '05 3L - thus identical to yours.

PS: Or here is an idea: Since Lifeguard 6 costs here about 3 times as much as a multi-vehicle ATF...: Another option would be to use one of those cheap ATFs (one of those, which at least come with the doubtful claim, that it is suitable for your Jag, and do the full flush with it. If that solves your problem, you know that the old ATF was the problem. But then you should do another full flush with Lifeguard 6... - thus, a "double-flush"...

...and obviously change the filter - see my thread above.

 

Hello Peter, Lifeguard is way out of my budget range. Just out of interest, there's a US company selling a complete kit (including a pump!) with this spec listed: 7 Liters German RAVENOL Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid specifically developed and engineered for Jaguar 6 speed automatic transmissions used in this vehicle. Adequate quantity of fluid for complete filter change. Fluid meets required Jaguar fluid specification for this vehicle: Jaguar C2C8432

I've got the filter/pan kit and an air-powered pump and 10 litres of Penrite Dextron-III.

 

Well, you have a Jag, I suggest if you want to keep it, use Lifeguard 6. As I wrote in my thread: Initially I filled Nulon SYNATF into the transmission, only to be thaught better here in the forum and I dumped it again, and bought lifeguard 6 and put that in. 7 Liters also is not enough for a full flush, and a "Half-flush is the same as removing the engine oil, and then putting half of the old oil right in again and adding 50% new engine oil. What is the exact name/description of that Ravenol. They produce heaps of different types of ATF. Ravenol JF506E would be good for X-Type, but I cannot get in in Australia. I found something else for X-Type. But for S-Type, there is really only Lifeguard 6 and a few others, which are not available in AUS. Penrite is wrong - very wrong:
VISCOSITY (cSt @ 100oC): Typically 7.5. VISCOSITY (cSt @ 40oC): Typically 37. (google "MSDS Penrite Dexron-III")
KV40=37 / KV100=7.5 that is way too high. KV is always what I am looking for as a first indicator, but there is heaps more that is important, like the correct additives added by the manufacturer - and the correct ones would only be in Lifeguard 6. Maybe Dexron III is already totally wrong - I do not know that by heart now).

But I think I found a purpose of that cheap ATF: I smear it as rust-proofing on the metal parts under the car... .

PS: If you google a bit and find that there are other sellers in AUS, how sell 20L of lifeguard 6 for close to AU$1000, you come to the conclusion, that 525 plus postage is actually not that bad, plus, if you are lucky, you might get it from the same seller via ebay cheaper, in case ebay sends you a special offer.

 

I'm sorry but I find it utterly ridiculous that the only transmission oil for the Jaguar is Lifegaurd. The box is made for many other cars like Fords and so on. Don't tell me that Ford owners pay $600 and more for transmission fluid. Yes I have a Jaguar, I have had them for close to 30 years. I have rebuilt several XK engines and restored XJs. If this transmission can't cope with anything less than Lifegaurd then the car goes. Simple. They aren't that precious. I'll get another XJ6. I can field-strip one of those in my sleep.

 

Well, it's not the only one as has been posted many times - you could read and see

 

Bazzarius: I gotta say: Your tone is a bit out of line. I am trying to help you and you are shooting the messenger! Not cool!
Actually I had an idea this afternoon, what your problem might be, but I would have to research that idea further - this again - obviously - would "cost" me my time. But since you got some attitude there, I would not know, why I should do that...

 

Nobody is out of line here. I am simply stating my opinion on the matter and cost of transmission oils. I appreciate your comments but am at variance with some of the content. That is all. My post certainly did not contain any "tone". If it offended I apologise but I am entitled to my opinions. I am going to continue with my chosen path. If it results in anything less than desirable, well, that is my problem and I entirely accept that.