Hi guys. I was driving today and the screen said gearbox fault. I shut the car off and then restarted it and it looked normal. After the car sat for an hour and half and when I left it went into restricted performance mode after being driven a mile.

I wasn't beating up on the car at the time and I was just putting around, not driving it hard.

I went to pep boys to see if I could get them to run the codes but they were closed already. Any ideas on this one?

 

I'd read the codes either by getting my own reader (I have, elm327 is $20 on ebay) or waiting till somewhere's open. There's a ton of extra things you can do with your own elm327 that you can't do for free at AutoZone etc.

However, if there are codes in the tranny, you need a dealer-type device to read them - which the free places do NOT have.

 

qwiketz, restricted performance can be caused by several things, see if you can get the codes as jagv8 recommended. Basic tranny will also pop up on the generic scanners at your local autoparts store.

Its the 4.2 with the ZF6HP, I can't recall anyone else getting a RP message. Lets hope its something simple. Any water get into the engine bay?

 

I don't think so about the water. The relative humidity yesterday was fairly low as well.

 

Removed

 

I took it into the shop yesterday and they said that they saw a transmission error code and cleared it. They also saw error codes for both banks lean, which is probably associated with my new supercharger setup (ported and regeared eaton). They said to drive it the same and see if it pops up again.

 

Please take my word of advice. Buy a OBDII reader, not just for reading codes, but also to read values like ltft/stft values. This way you can monitor your engine and get fast help from the forums.

But what where the exact codes you got?

Getting lean codes after a supercharger swap isn't uncommon, as there could be a leak somewhere. I doubt that has anything to do with the snakeoil treatment ;-), so check your LTFT/STFT values in different driving speeds, that will tell if you have leaks somewhere.

When I work on some bodies car (i.e. make major changes), I first check all the parameters before I start, which means many runs on the street to measure/record individual sensors. Then I know the working of all the parts/engine, which could become invaluable if you have an issue later. But also valuable before as when there is something not working within the margins, you can already fix that before. I know a little late now, but for those who start adventures this is hopefully good advice.

OBDII readers aren't expensive at all and imho should be as standard to have for your car as a jack in the boot. Preferably buy one that also reads ABS codes (not all will do), and one that gives you the opportunity to record sensors for a given time. Best I know, but a little pricy is the standard autoenginuty one, the software is easy to use, and you can later expand the pack to read much more.

 

Knowing the error code number will tell you a lot. My cheapo scanner (and a little reading on here and the rest of the internet) diagnosed exactly what the transmission problem I was having was.

It amounted to a couple of springs breaking in the transmission. I told the transmission shop exactly what was wrong. They did not even open it up. They just ordered the parts. Once they had the parts, they opened up the tranny, replaced the springs and fluid, closed it up and all was sweet again.

Knowing the code P#### is important. Knowing if the next code to pop up is the same as or different than the last code is also important.

Is it still running under fail-safe mode?

 

Update....

Okay, so last monday I had the codes cleared by the shop. The car drove fine for a day or two and then I got the check engine light to go on. At the time, I was coasting at zero throttle or very little.

On Saturday, I got the gearbox fault message again. The car was in 3rd gear and wouldn't change gears. It was stuck in third, even from a dead stop at a light. At higher rpm(3k approx) it still wouldn't shift. I parked the car for 15 minutes, restarted and it worked normally. Prior to this happening, it seemed as though the car was short shifting more than usual considering it was in sport mode.

The car has gone in and out of restricted performance mode over the last 2-3 days. It has happened at low throttle when I'm not beating up on the car. So, sometype of leak may be the problem. I was thinking a leak that would let un metered air into the motor (so post mass air meter, but before the supercharger).

It looks like I'm going to need to order the software this week as this is driving me absolutely crazy. Along with my clunking suspension, this is really wearing me out and not allowing me to enjoy the car.

Question. If I get the autoenginuity software, will I more than likely be able to diagnose my problems or will I need to by the add on packs to get all the code reading that I'll need. It seems like the basic pack should do it. I think it was about $250, which I'm willing to spend right now, but I don't want to spend too much more.

Will the software allow me to reset/clear the computer memory in the car to remove the error codes in the memory?

 

Yes, it will.

The basic hardware/software will be very good for your basic diagnostics, including the transmission. I can't speak for the difference between the basic and expansion...as I just want the full monty right off the bat.

Are you sure you don't want to just get the auto parts store to try and capture a Pcode for the transmission? Unless you know you'll want the AE later on, for the more advanced user features, the basic code should get you pretty close to the current problem.

 

Hi guys. I had to take the car into the dealer for the j004 emmissions recall. They pulled the codes as well. Here's what they said:

"40323 multiple codes displayed p0171 and p0174 bank 1 and bank 2 lean. P0783 logged in ecm and tcm moduless- gearload 3-4, p0133 bank1 s1 upsteam oxygen sensor slow response/ p100 monitors not completed since lasd code deletion. Monitor ltft and stft for both banks found long term fuel trim bank 1 at +8.66 and bank 2 +8.66. Readings drop when rpm raised suspect vacum leak/unmetered air entering engine. Check vacum hoses for leaks and found to be ok performed complete code clear including flight data recorder performed visual isnpection of throttle body hoses=good Note: aftermarket intake/possibly supercharger has been modified because it makes a lot of noise."

The tech said that tghe transmission connector sleeve was seaping fluid. Maybe this is what caused my trans issue/gearbox fault light coming on. They quoted about $850 to fix it.

What do you guys think of these latest developments?

 

Also, I currently have a bunch of suspension clunking noise when I go over bumps. The tech did state that there was a leak on my shocks/struts. It didn't state which one it was although i'd suspect it's highly likely to be my left side stuff as I can hear it in the car.

 

Egads! What you need is a nice set of 6 dual side draft Webers hanging off of a sweet V12 with a nice 5 speed and a limited slip differential. No stinkin' codes or ECUs! Then just some electronic ignition, wrenches and a timing light!

Right. So yesterday my new (to me) STR threw god knows what code as I was backing out of a parking place. Probably a rear bumper sensor failure ... LIMITED PERFORMANCE and the engine check icon are now on the speedo.

Well it ran great for a week and 1,000 miles ...

So I guess I better get some kind of a OBDII reader and bone up on JagV8's list of acromoniums. ;>)

Maybe he could even format it? It's a devil to read right now ... ;>))
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...6&d=1280220450

I'm going to summarize what I 've gleaned from this post into a set of reccomendations for OBDII diag tools to see if I'm comprehending this correctly.

Bob S.

2005 Green, Lame & Limping STR

 

The P0783 isn't a nice one when I read the possible description. It detects reduced or excessive slip of the clutches for 3-4th. Ensure the fluid level is correct (small chance but cheap to check), otherwise there might be an issue with the clutches (check maybe the oil) or there is an issue with the solenoids (not much can be done). Another try to correct could be to have the TCM learn new shift adaptations (via the VCM/WDS dealer tool).

But as the TCM is also getting torque calculations that are based (amongst others) on airflow which now is skewed due to the vacuum leak you have, I can highly recommend to get that fixed first (and soon).

 

The P100 will be a typo for P1000 (which does mean readiness tests, i.e. monitors, not completed since last DTC clear).

JOsworth (Jeff) did a write-up very recently for that sleeve leaking. It's DIY if you're careful and reasonably up for it. You'll need oil to add

Lean codes and the fuel trims: does sound likely an air leak. You need to fix it or have it fixed for you
If you have a non-standard intake, chances are it's at fault.

 

Hi guys. Thanks for the helpful information. I strongly believe that the trans issue is due to low vacuum signals. I remember one time at about half throttle thinking "dang, this shift is way higher than it should be". I think the next day I got the gearbox fault message.

I have a hot air induction system(cone filter attached to the stock inlet pipe. There is a silicone piece in between the stock air intake tract and the mass air meter. I'll take a look at this after work.

I have a question about the transmission. This is a sealed transmission right? There's not any easy way to check the fluid level is there? I'll read the thread on the leaky sleeve.

 

What did you mean by "trans issue is due to low vacuum signals"?
(I don't have a clue... sounds like gibberish?)

 

Oh boy, "hot air induction system", get it out there soon and place the original back, no discussion please (not kidding here)! Besides the extra heat already caused by the snakebite you are also sucking in extra hot air, very bad combination. Then by just changing the tube where the MAF sensor sits in you already get a difference in MAF readings (these things are very very sensitive), so please get rid of it.

Then also get the vacuum leak sorted as that is still there, and with a little bit of luck that could sort the gearbox issue. Though having the oil level checked might still not be bad and is described in the JTIS, but (imho) only do it if you can verify the internal oil temp either via the dealer tool, or autoenginuity tool with jaguar pack.

 

I meant that there may be the possibility of the trans acting funny due to weird vacuum signals from the engine. I don't know about on this car, but I know that the shift performance is usually tied to how much load the engine is under or isn't under. But, like I mentioned, I'm new to Jags.

 

Yeah, i'd love to get rid of it. It was that way when I bought the car. I posted a wanted ad, but haven't got any interest or leads. I should call a jag salvage yard. I think there's one not too far from me in CA. I have also heard as you mentioned about the MAF meters on these cars being very sensitive.

Brutal pointed out that the vacuum leak could also potentially be from where the intercooler hat mates up with the intercoolers. There are the gaskets there that could potentially be installed improperly or out of position slightly. I don't currently have a scan tool, but my mechanic does so maybe they can help me out since I paid a fortune to get the blower removed and reinstalled.