"Gearbox fault" warning light flashed ON
#1
#2
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Tlass68, did the car recently run through water such as heavy rain and puddles? Jags have issues with moisture fouling electronics. As a remedy to a moisture issue or for some other unknow issue, you may try disconnecting negative terminal from battery then reconnect after an hour. Drive gingerly (no hard acceleration) in "Normal" transmission mode for 250 miles, then in "Sport" mode with more frequent hard acceleration. The purpose of this exercise is to clear erroneous old transmission mal-events and stored adaptive driving techniques surplanting with your own.
The following users liked this post:
waxrola (05-05-2023)
#4
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
To the contrare my fair forum friend "jagv8". Your "buggin in" leaves you with "Partially Wrong". I responded to Tlass68 with "You may try...", not: You must do this...". If you were to have asked me where I recieved my information for my help for Tlass68 I would have responded with "I had a similar event with my Jag and when "caught in a pinch" recieved information from a respected Jaguar technician with the exact remedy I kindly laid out for Tlass68. Furthermore, I researched for myself that Jaguar will perform the exact or similar detail themselves post code retrieval. Even code retrieval has proven to be vague or misleading themselves. "Losing various settings"...shmettings. In the event of a service the likelihood of losing stored settings is extremely high anyway. If Tlass68 is "caught in a pinch" he will hopefully learn what I experienced then learned will suffice for him too...without irreparable harm to his vehicle. Even if it what I laid out doesn't pan out the code(s) will reappear shortly thereafter. In closing and in advisement; please tone down your demeaning condecending rhetoric to me and to some of the other members here. I've read several of your posts and several of them left me concerned with your brashness.
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i have the same problem with my 2000 s-type as well....ive driven it with the light on for about 2k miles and i think the problem is more electrical then problem with tranny. I wish i could pull the codes but don't have the money to take it to the dealership...sucks cause i just got the car!
The following users liked this post:
BennyJag512 (12-20-2022)
Trending Topics
#9
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
xlr8njag, you may have hit the nail on the head. I've read and experienced an electrical glitch such as moisture or external sensor malfunction to throw the trans. shifting off. The trannys are nicely built but internals i.e. solenoids, etc. can still develop glitches. I was once advised to "reset" the electrical/program by a battery diconnect for approx. an hour. There were no major settings loss. She apparently behaved normally thereafter, normally shifted? A few months ago Jaguar reflashed the TCM and ECU, cleared stored adaptive learning ($110). The "Lurch" prevailed and I haven't sensed anything different from prior operational behavior. Got to see some neat new Jags though. Yours is a 2000, If you haven't changed the tranny fluid perhaps this may be a time to do so? I plan a switch to Mobile 1 ATF (fully synthetic). Again, you may decide to clear codes by battery disconnect or have "any" mechanic hook up, read, and clear from there, then see what happens. If the light stays off and she shifts normally...hurray!
The following users liked this post:
waxrola (05-05-2023)
#10
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i have the same problem with my 2000 s-type as well....ive driven it with the light on for about 2k miles and i think the problem is more electrical then problem with tranny. I wish i could pull the codes but don't have the money to take it to the dealership...sucks cause i just got the car!
You don't have the separate PCM & TCM of the later cars. The PCM is very different. Advice for the later cars about the lurch etc does not apply to your car as yours has the Ford 5R55N tranny.
#12
The following users liked this post:
BennyJag512 (12-20-2022)
#13
#16
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hopefully someone has advice ?
M
#17
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 5,622
Received 2,622 Likes
on
1,808 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Start any diagnosis with checking battery voltage. There must be a minimum of 12.6 volts present for all systems to function correctly.
With the ignition OFF, use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage across the terminals. If it's less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery at 2 to 5 amps for five or six hours and then retest. If voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, replace the battery.
If the voltage is correct, what DTCs are stored in the system? Post them here.
With the ignition OFF, use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage across the terminals. If it's less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery at 2 to 5 amps for five or six hours and then retest. If voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, replace the battery.
If the voltage is correct, what DTCs are stored in the system? Post them here.
The following users liked this post:
BennyJag512 (12-23-2022)
#19
The following users liked this post:
steiner (10-08-2022)
#20
The following 2 users liked this post by clubairth1:
S-Type Owner (10-08-2022),
steiner (10-08-2022)