Getting fed up
#1
09-09-2020, 02:55 AM
Getting fed up
Hi everyone I am at my wits end with the engine coolant low
light coming on all the time
car is a 2004 4.2 v8
I have replaced the coolant reservoir tank and now done the water pump
temp gage is always sitting on the halfway mark on the cluster once warm
drive for around 10 kilometers then the engine coolant low comes on when I check reservoir tank it is only half full this is where it is starting to bug me if I carefully remove the reservoir cap tank starts to full up again light goes off or if I turn engine off tank with start to full up again
have bleed system by running engine and heating on high for 40 minutes
when I park car in garage engine running there is not a drop of coolant on the ground
any ideas would be appreciated
thanking you
Darrol
light coming on all the time
car is a 2004 4.2 v8
I have replaced the coolant reservoir tank and now done the water pump
temp gage is always sitting on the halfway mark on the cluster once warm
drive for around 10 kilometers then the engine coolant low comes on when I check reservoir tank it is only half full this is where it is starting to bug me if I carefully remove the reservoir cap tank starts to full up again light goes off or if I turn engine off tank with start to full up again
have bleed system by running engine and heating on high for 40 minutes
when I park car in garage engine running there is not a drop of coolant on the ground
any ideas would be appreciated
thanking you
Darrol
Last edited by GGG; 09-10-2020 at 02:48 AM. Reason: Edit typo in thread title
#2
09-09-2020, 05:36 AM
Senior Member
Firstly, you may know this already but the temp gauge on the s-type is only a placebo. It does not show the actual engine temp. It will stay on halfway for a very wide range of actual engine temperatures.
Next you may have already done this, but you need to top the level up in the reservoir when the engine is stone cold. This is best done after it has been left overnight.
Mellow
Next you may have already done this, but you need to top the level up in the reservoir when the engine is stone cold. This is best done after it has been left overnight.
Mellow
#3
09-09-2020, 10:50 AM
Veteran Member
How much have you driven the car since replacing the reservoir and water pump? There’s an official bleed procedure in the service manual, but it’s quite involved. I gave up at the step where you hop around on one foot while swinging a bag of newt eyes over your head in a clockwise direction.
I found it much easier to just drive and keep topping off the reservoir each morning while the system was cold. Since it’s normal for the coolant level to drop as air is purged, I usually overfill a little bit. This non-official bleed can take several days, so don’t be alarmed. Cycle the heat full hot and full cold a few times. Expect some gurgling from the heater, too. Running at idle in your driveway won’t cut it, no matter how long you try.
The temp gauge may briefly climb above the center position. If it goes over the 5/8 mark, that is too high so keep a close eye on it and be prepared to pull over if needed. As previously mentioned, the gauge is deliberately misleading. From approximately 180-230F, the needle is centered.
If there is any doubt about the integrity of the cooling system, run a pressure test. Make sure the system can hold the rated pressure for at least 15 minutes without dropping. You mentioned seeing no coolant leaks on the ground, which is good. However, you can have internal leaks that leave no external traces. A pressure test will quickly tell you. Some auto parts store have a free loaner program for tools, if needed.
I found it much easier to just drive and keep topping off the reservoir each morning while the system was cold. Since it’s normal for the coolant level to drop as air is purged, I usually overfill a little bit. This non-official bleed can take several days, so don’t be alarmed. Cycle the heat full hot and full cold a few times. Expect some gurgling from the heater, too. Running at idle in your driveway won’t cut it, no matter how long you try.
The temp gauge may briefly climb above the center position. If it goes over the 5/8 mark, that is too high so keep a close eye on it and be prepared to pull over if needed. As previously mentioned, the gauge is deliberately misleading. From approximately 180-230F, the needle is centered.
If there is any doubt about the integrity of the cooling system, run a pressure test. Make sure the system can hold the rated pressure for at least 15 minutes without dropping. You mentioned seeing no coolant leaks on the ground, which is good. However, you can have internal leaks that leave no external traces. A pressure test will quickly tell you. Some auto parts store have a free loaner program for tools, if needed.
#4
09-09-2020, 01:35 PM
If you press the stalk on the left of the steering wheel, and hold it in while turning the key, you will get the menu showing. All instruments will light up and all needles do a full swing.
If you now press the stalk 37 times, you will get "temp in", which will show as 3 or 4 digits. 470 will be 47 degrees and 989 will be 98,9 degrees (centigrade!). That will be the water temperature. Get used to switching that on, every time you start, and you will never be surprised by a sudden temperature rise on the silly water temperature gauge.
As for the low water warning. It can be right, in which case you need to top up. But as mentioned, do that when cold. As the cooling system is self bleeding, a couple of top ups (when cold!!) will quickly get rid of any air pocket there might exist, UNLESS you have a leak! In that case nothing will help, but finding this leak and sorting it out.
When looking for a leak, don't forget it can be the cap itself, which lets water out at too low pressure.
Good luck!
If you now press the stalk 37 times, you will get "temp in", which will show as 3 or 4 digits. 470 will be 47 degrees and 989 will be 98,9 degrees (centigrade!). That will be the water temperature. Get used to switching that on, every time you start, and you will never be surprised by a sudden temperature rise on the silly water temperature gauge.
As for the low water warning. It can be right, in which case you need to top up. But as mentioned, do that when cold. As the cooling system is self bleeding, a couple of top ups (when cold!!) will quickly get rid of any air pocket there might exist, UNLESS you have a leak! In that case nothing will help, but finding this leak and sorting it out.
When looking for a leak, don't forget it can be the cap itself, which lets water out at too low pressure.
Good luck!
#5
09-10-2020, 02:32 AM
Firstly, you may know this already but the temp gauge on the s-type is only a placebo. It does not show the actual engine temp. It will stay on halfway for a very wide range of actual engine temperatures.
Next you may have already done this, but you need to top the level up in the reservoir when the engine is stone cold. This is best done after it has been left overnight.
Mellow
Next you may have already done this, but you need to top the level up in the reservoir when the engine is stone cold. This is best done after it has been left overnight.
Mellow
brought a new radiator today now the hard job installation it
The following users liked this post:
kr98664 (09-10-2020)
#6
09-10-2020, 02:34 AM
If you press the stalk on the left of the steering wheel, and hold it in while turning the key, you will get the menu showing. All instruments will light up and all needles do a full swing.
If you now press the stalk 37 times, you will get "temp in", which will show as 3 or 4 digits. 470 will be 47 degrees and 989 will be 98,9 degrees (centigrade!). That will be the water temperature. Get used to switching that on, every time you start, and you will never be surprised by a sudden temperature rise on the silly water temperature gauge.
As for the low water warning. It can be right, in which case you need to top up. But as mentioned, do that when cold. As the cooling system is self bleeding, a couple of top ups (when cold!!) will quickly get rid of any air pocket there might exist, UNLESS you have a leak! In that case nothing will help, but finding this leak and sorting it out.
When looking for a leak, don't forget it can be the cap itself, which lets water out at too low pressure.
Good luck!
If you now press the stalk 37 times, you will get "temp in", which will show as 3 or 4 digits. 470 will be 47 degrees and 989 will be 98,9 degrees (centigrade!). That will be the water temperature. Get used to switching that on, every time you start, and you will never be surprised by a sudden temperature rise on the silly water temperature gauge.
As for the low water warning. It can be right, in which case you need to top up. But as mentioned, do that when cold. As the cooling system is self bleeding, a couple of top ups (when cold!!) will quickly get rid of any air pocket there might exist, UNLESS you have a leak! In that case nothing will help, but finding this leak and sorting it out.
When looking for a leak, don't forget it can be the cap itself, which lets water out at too low pressure.
Good luck!
#7
09-10-2020, 08:01 AM
Veteran Member
Make sure your replacement has provisions for the transmission cooler. Despite what? maybe 37 total manual S-Types produced, the manual radiator application used to make up 97% of internet search returns for S-Type radiators. I say "used to" as I haven't had to search for S-Type radiators or several years after replacing both the 03 and then the 05, both within a very few months and miles of 9 years/110k miles. Yes, that is the Jag signature leak, plastic tank to tube/fin interface, lower right side on the aft face - between 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down.
I've just recently had a couple of the X300's spring a leak there, but only under pressure, and also, more acceptably, at 20+ years and between 200k and 263k miles!
One final tip, once you've removed the leaker, lay it out directly alongside the replacement and make a careful inspection. These radiators have many molded plastic features employed for mounting, that do not travel well in shipping. Can't speak for the V-8, but on the 3.0L, the most difficult phase of R&R is getting it past the a/c line on the left hand side. Requires a bit of "tweaking" of the line. Careful, don't crease it!
I've just recently had a couple of the X300's spring a leak there, but only under pressure, and also, more acceptably, at 20+ years and between 200k and 263k miles!
One final tip, once you've removed the leaker, lay it out directly alongside the replacement and make a careful inspection. These radiators have many molded plastic features employed for mounting, that do not travel well in shipping. Can't speak for the V-8, but on the 3.0L, the most difficult phase of R&R is getting it past the a/c line on the left hand side. Requires a bit of "tweaking" of the line. Careful, don't crease it!
The following 2 users liked this post by aholbro1:
kr98664 (09-10-2020),
S-Type Owner (09-10-2020)
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#8
09-11-2020, 02:24 AM
Make sure your replacement has provisions for the transmission cooler. Despite what? maybe 37 total manual S-Types produced, the manual radiator application used to make up 97% of internet search returns for S-Type radiators. I say "used to" as I haven't had to search for S-Type radiators or several years after replacing both the 03 and then the 05, both within a very few months and miles of 9 years/110k miles. Yes, that is the Jag signature leak, plastic tank to tube/fin interface, lower right side on the aft face - between 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down.
I've just recently had a couple of the X300's spring a leak there, but only under pressure, and also, more acceptably, at 20+ years and between 200k and 263k miles!
One final tip, once you've removed the leaker, lay it out directly alongside the replacement and make a careful inspection. These radiators have many molded plastic features employed for mounting, that do not travel well in shipping. Can't speak for the V-8, but on the 3.0L, the most difficult phase of R&R is getting it past the a/c line on the left hand side. Requires a bit of "tweaking" of the line. Careful, don't crease it!
I've just recently had a couple of the X300's spring a leak there, but only under pressure, and also, more acceptably, at 20+ years and between 200k and 263k miles!
One final tip, once you've removed the leaker, lay it out directly alongside the replacement and make a careful inspection. These radiators have many molded plastic features employed for mounting, that do not travel well in shipping. Can't speak for the V-8, but on the 3.0L, the most difficult phase of R&R is getting it past the a/c line on the left hand side. Requires a bit of "tweaking" of the line. Careful, don't crease it!
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