I've had the car now for just long enough to have some questions. I've got a small slip between first and second gear. It's not there when the car is not up to operating temp. So first couple of shifts are fine then a bit of a spike in revs between those gears. PO did a fluid change with the pan/filter kit and correct fluid. Also checked the levels after running car. Did not drain the TC. Doesn't happen in sport mode though I think it starts out in second. Am I right about that? A post said that a hard reset with the disconnected negative battery lead touching the positive terminal may reset the PCM, TCU and ECU. Another post stated that Mercon SP or LV is a dead on substitute for the expensive fluid. Also is there a way to drain TC? And should it be drained?

 

You meant PCM & TCM. It will partially reset the PCM and do nothing to the TCM (only OE tool can clear its learning). If you do a hard reset you will clear the learned settings and all the OBD monitors and risk - it's a small risk - entering Catch-22 where the monitors do not set but you also get no codes to help you figure why.

On a hard reset your best bet is to try the drive cycle (and expect rough changes till it relearns stuff).

 

Not really just do another drop and drain if you want to.
I would use SP but not LV. LV is newer and stands for low viscosity. Suppose to be for better fuel mileage. SP has been proven to work fine.

Do you know if the car has the latest PCM and TCM software. Probably not iof it's not been serviced by a dealer.

S mode starts in first and holds the gears longer and after a forced downshift it holds that gear for 30 seconds. You can check it yourself.
Also seems to help with the Lurch so I drive 100% in S mode. Not really very much difference.
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Interesting, because in sport mode I get no slip at the first shift. This made me think it was starting out in 2nd gear (1st seems pretty low and upshift is quick). I suppose I'll keep it in "S" and also d/d the tranny again and get as much of the old fluid out as possible. Are any of the newish parts in the kit PO installed reusable? I'll check with the only jag indi in town to see if they can update software and then the dealer. The stock intake tube is pretty buggered up with aluminum duct tape over cracks and the like so I'll be fitting a 3.25 od aluminum tube and some silicone couplers (just replacing stock tube and paper filter with KN, nothing else). Do you think a hard reset after this would be necessary?

 

Watch fuel trims. If there are ANY air leaks it can affect gear changes because the computers struggle to cope with the bad air.

 

Kind of up to you. The filter is integrated into the pan so if not too many miles maybe you could reuse it?
Might be cheap insurance to just replace the filter again.

Be sure and check the magnet in the pan and clean all the hair off it. Should have some amount of metal shaving on it from normal wear but not much.

If they did what was needed the sealing sleeve and updated pan bolts can be reused.
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"ANY air leaks can affect gear changes".

All other shifts seem to be ok. BUT . . . the air tube as I said is crappped out and I'll be replacing it with an aluminum tube and couplers. Detailed the engine over the weekend and did not see any of the vac lines loose. I'll try and put some real mileage on it and see if I get any codes. PO struggled with the lean codes for both banks before finally getting it right. We'll see i guess.

 

Loose... a leak you cannot see or hear is plenty big enough for the PCM to detect and struggle to cope with. Read its data, especially fuel trims.