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Got the Check engine light twice now.

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  #1  
Old 08-03-2010, 06:34 PM
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Default Got the Check engine light twice now.

So after picking up my car and driving about 1000 miles home with zero issues, yesterday I got the check engine light and restricted performance "memo".

Today I dumped the info at Autozone and this is what I got:

P0171 bank 1 too lean
P0174 bank 2 too lean
P1111 unknown

P1000 mod $11

I elected to erase the codes and see if anything reappears.

The P1000 unknown would not clear.

But the check engine light went out and the car returned to normal operation.

Prior to me picking up the car I had a PPI done at the local Jag dealer and they identified some pre-existing codes which from their verbal description sounds an awfull lot like the P0171 and P0174.

I have not touched the car at all but maybe as a result of their inspection they left the hose between the MAF sensor and the intake loose and it's leaking?

This is a car with 14.5K miles and it's a 2005. The only official records of Jag service are oil changes and an oil pan gasket replacement.

They recomended an injection system cleaning proceedure (?????), new air filter & cabin filter plus a brake system flush. No arguments with the filters and flush. Cooling system too!

So after reseting the codes it threw another set not too long after that so I read them again.

P0171 bank 1 Mode $11
P0174 Bank 2
P0171
P0174

P1000

Then I read some parameters

P0174 @ 623 RPM (seems like a very low idle)
ABS TPS% 3.5
Load 16%
MAF lb/m .89
MAp ("HG) 14.89
Coolant 203F
IAT 108F
Ign. Adv. 7.5 degrees I assume
ST FTRM1 % 3.1
LT FTRM1 % 18.8
ST FTRM2 .8
LT FTRM2 18.8
Veh speed 0
Fuel PSI 56

Fuel sys1 clsd
Fuel sys2 clsd

Most of this is Greek to me but that's ok.

So what do you guys think?

Maybe a new fuel filter and injectors cleaning via their treatment or do I have a couple of compromised lamda sensors? Maybe just a bottle of Techron for the injectors???

How hard are the lamda sensors and fuel filter to replace?

Thanks

Bob S.
 

Last edited by Staatsof; 08-03-2010 at 06:37 PM.
  #2  
Old 08-03-2010, 06:56 PM
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suscribing... Sounds similar to my car in some ways.
 
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:51 PM
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"Bank too lean" is usually caused by a vaccum leak(s). Check your hoses and gaskets. Also check for worn O2 sensors.
 
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:07 PM
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[quote=bfsgross;230527Also check for worn O2 sensors.[/quote]

At this mileage? Fouled perhaps but worn? I'm still utlizing the ones on my 2001 Sable with 140K and my 1990 Infiniti Q45 at 135K and theye both pass emissions tests.

Perhaps some eletrical connector issues?

Bob S.
 
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:17 PM
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I know, except for the tansmission thing on yours.
Mine's not even modified either. Makes you wonder, no?

Bob S.


Originally Posted by qwiketz
suscribing... Sounds similar to my car in some ways.
 
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:30 PM
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I had the same codes on my ex 02 X-Type 3.0. Turned out to be leaking intake manifold runner solenoid gaskets= vacuum leak= lean condition.
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 12:01 AM
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mine is modified, but the first code didn't rear it's head for about 8 days and probably about 300 miles of driving. I think I found my vacuum leak on the spacer between the charge cooler and supercharger hat (supercharger discharge casting). I didn't expect problems with my car with 38 k miles, but stuff happens.
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Staatsof
So after picking up my car and driving about 1000 miles home with zero issues, yesterday I got the check engine light and restricted performance "memo".
Most codes are "2-trip". That means (roughly) 2 cold-to-hot drive cycles where the (error) conditions occur in each. It's easy to think there's no problem when the light's out but it can mean that the conditions aren't alike enough to flag a code and turn the MIL on. You could check for pending codes (but you probably need your own OBD tool to do so).
Originally Posted by Staatsof
Today I dumped the info at Autozone and this is what I got:

P0171 bank 1 too lean
P0174 bank 2 too lean
P1111 unknown

P1000 mod $11
The lean ones show you have a bad enough air leak to flag codes.
All P1 codes are make-specific and the car maker can at their choice even make them model-specific and/or year-specific.
P1111 is best understood by looking it up in the workshop manual. It's a status code that all S-Types should have.
P1000 - also see the workshop manual. It should not occur with P1111 as they are opposites!
I think "mod" is a daft abbreviation for "module" (as in PCM, TCM or whatever).
AutoZone only read the PCM, I understand.
$11 is the code for the PCM on an S-Type.
Originally Posted by Staatsof
I elected to erase the codes and see if anything reappears.

The P1000 unknown would not clear.
See workshop manual please
I don't mean to be awkward but there's good stuff in there and I can't even copy/paste it in here.
Originally Posted by Staatsof
But the check engine light went out and the car returned to normal operation.
It should: 2 trips usually required.
Originally Posted by Staatsof
Prior to me picking up the car I had a PPI done at the local Jag dealer and they identified some pre-existing codes which from their verbal description sounds an awfull lot like the P0171 and P0174.
Maybe they didn't like to include actual stuff like the codes.
Originally Posted by Staatsof
I have not touched the car at all but maybe as a result of their inspection they left the hose between the MAF sensor and the intake loose and it's leaking?
Maybe. When you find the leak you'll know.
Originally Posted by Staatsof
This is a car with 14.5K miles and it's a 2005. The only official records of Jag service are oil changes and an oil pan gasket replacement.

They recomended an injection system cleaning proceedure (?????), new air filter & cabin filter plus a brake system flush. No arguments with the filters and flush. Cooling system too!
On such a young car, I can't see the point of the injection cleaning. Should do no harm, except to your wallet. I suppose someone coulda used bad gas but it's a small chance. Cabin filter won't affect OBD. Brakes aren't gonna cause those codes LOL. Ditto the cooling system.
Originally Posted by Staatsof
So after reseting the codes it threw another set not too long after that so I read them again.

P0171 bank 1 Mode $11
P0174 Bank 2
P0171
P0174

P1000
I reckon that "Mode" is "Module". Don't know why the codes are repeated. (Not possible in the car, AFAIK).
Originally Posted by Staatsof
Then I read some parameters

P0174 @ 623 RPM (seems like a very low idle)
ABS TPS% 3.5
Load 16%
MAF lb/m .89
MAp ("HG) 14.89
Coolant 203F
IAT 108F
Ign. Adv. 7.5 degrees I assume
ST FTRM1 % 3.1
LT FTRM1 % 18.8
ST FTRM2 .8
LT FTRM2 18.8
Veh speed 0
Fuel PSI 56

Fuel sys1 clsd
Fuel sys2 clsd

Most of this is Greek to me but that's ok.

So what do you guys think?
Those look to be "freeze frame" i.e. how things were when the code(s) flagged.
Idle rpm's about right.
ABS is absolute (cf relative), TPS is in my acronyms LOL. Rarely gets down to 0 but 3.5% is no throttle. MAP is measured in inches of mercury (so, " and Hg). Looks OK.
Coolant (ECT) shows engine was hot.
IAT shows it was quite a warm day.
LT FTRM1 & 2 are long-term fuel trims for bank 1 & 2 and show you have an air leak.
You'd hope for trims below 5%.
Also, both banks are the same so there's a good chance you have a leak in a place that's common to both banks.
"clsd" is "closed", meaning "closed loop", i.e. the PCM's controlling fuelling etc using feedback from the sensors especially the O2 sensors. (It won't even try to do that when starting but we can tell the car's not just been started from all the other values.)
Originally Posted by Staatsof
Maybe a new fuel filter and injectors cleaning via their treatment or do I have a couple of compromised lamda sensors? Maybe just a bottle of Techron for the injectors???

How hard are the lamda sensors and fuel filter to replace?
I see no evidence to worry about the O2 sensors at this stage. When the leak is fixed in due course it makes sense to look at O2 sensor waveforms but I'd not bother now, especially as you're not used to OBD or what they should look like.
I wouldn't mess with the injectors now, either. Change as few things as possible until you find the air leak.
 

Last edited by JagV8; 08-04-2010 at 04:33 AM.
  #9  
Old 08-04-2010, 06:00 AM
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Thanks for the input. You seem to think this is probably all air leaks post the MAF?

I haven't even looked at this yet but do you suppose this is as a result of someone loosening up the hose from the throttle body to get the air filter out?

I'm taking a "I'm not going to touch it" approach since it got a clean bill of health at the Jag dealer during the PPI and it's now going back to another Jag dealer tomorrow for this and the headlamps. But I might take a look and see if it feels loose. Other than the oil and filter change at the BMW dealer who sold me the car I think this has been all Jag services.

My JTIS should arrive today but I'll be too busy to do much more on this issue before it goes into the dealer.

Bob S.
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 06:16 AM
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It doesn't have to be post-MAF (but probably is) as even K&N filters or damaged air boxes are well-known to cause problems.

If they picked up lean codes during PPI, it did not get a clean bill of health. If it had the fuel trims you posted, it should not have had a clean bill of health because it was not healthy!
 
  #11  
Old 08-04-2010, 06:32 AM
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Well it did. But I don't have any readout from their inspection. They told me the codes had happend some time ago. There weren't any dates on the reader I was using yesterday. Does Jag keep a date/timestamp on this stuff?????

How does an air filter box problem or a K&N filter cause this? Are there sensors in the air filter box as well?

Bob S.
 
  #12  
Old 08-04-2010, 06:41 AM
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You mean: does the jag dealer or any other place keep data. Up to them. I'm 3000 miles away and don't know
Looks to me the codes were there so there was no clean bill of health. Fuel trims like that also says no clean bill of health.

No idea, but it's so well known that I wouldn't get into why or how. (Turbulence maybe, but as I say I couldn't care less I just want my engine running properly.) You'll see avos has made comments and he's not the only one.
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:00 AM
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No, I meant date/timestamps in the ECU's datalog. How else could he say they were "old"?

You and I may now say that's not a clean bill of health but that's what the Jag dealer called it. Otherwise, I'd have had it resolved at the seller's expense. It's also not the only thing they missed.

Thanks again everyone for the input.
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:16 AM
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There's provision for something along those lines in OBD, but I don't think the S-Type's software supports it. Mine appears not to, but for all I know your newer car has different software ("calibration").

Ask them to substantiate their claim about the alleged oldness of the codes. I bet you find they can't!

If you tackled them about the air leak, showing their report implied it, they'd be in a pickle.
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 03:58 PM
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Well I checked for a loose hose clamp and neither of them moves at all. That big elbow piece is rather stiff plastic and not a nice rubber piece like on some of my other cars. I did notice that the center piece between the two intercoolers that is attached to the elbow wiggles around a bit.

Is that normal?

I'll let Jag sort this one out.

Bob S.
 
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Old 08-04-2010, 04:06 PM
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  #17  
Old 08-04-2010, 04:46 PM
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Absolutely! Thanks very much.

Have a look folks. Good stuff there.

I'll be sure to print off a copy and give it to the tech tomorrow.
That should set things off on a good note.

Bob S.


Originally Posted by Gus
 

Last edited by Staatsof; 08-05-2010 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 08-05-2010, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Staatsof
Well I checked for a loose hose clamp and neither of them moves at all. That big elbow piece is rather stiff plastic and not a nice rubber piece like on some of my other cars. I did notice that the center piece between the two intercoolers that is attached to the elbow wiggles around a bit.

Is that normal?

I'll let Jag sort this one out.

Bob S.
The big piece between the intercooler and the supercharger hat (the cast piece sitting on top of the supercharger) probably shouldn't move at all. After all, there's 4 bolts holding that thing in place. Thats where I think my leak is at.
 
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Old 08-05-2010, 01:34 PM
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Well I dropped it off this morning and I wanted to talk with the mechanic and see if I could slip in a few points from the nice diagnostic piece provided by GUS but it's way too formal a place. Wouldn't you know it, I couldn't get it to thow a code again on my 10 mile trip over there. I did give the stuff I jotted down (earlier in this thread) that I got from the Autozone reader.

I got a loaner though it wasn't a Jag R car... A Chrysler 300-Ashtray model. They have a deal setup with Enterprise Rent A Car for $5 a day. I'm just glad they offer it.

Bob S.
 
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Old 08-06-2010, 08:56 AM
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So they looked for a vacuum leak and couldn't find anything so we're going to try a new MAF and see over the next few days and see if that fixes things up. A new air filter is going in as well. I imagine it's 5 years old.

I did discuss the center piece/plenum above the supercharger seeming to move around a bit and he said it has a thick rubber mounting gasket and that this is intentional?

The plastic elbow hose and air filter box certainly seem very stiff so maybe that's Jaguar's idea for allowing flexibility for engine movement?

Bob S.
 

Last edited by Staatsof; 08-06-2010 at 09:02 AM.


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