first off, many thanks to guys pointing right direction for diagnostic tools .. 2nd post here:

had the car for three days now, found the "L" shape cooling hose believe connected between pump and engine inlet , found hose tore real bad , filled coolant in tank coolant started pouring out of it, got hose replaced it . refilled coolant tank , removed bleeding screws, kept filling it could see lots of bubbles coming out for a while " finally got tired so I top it off placed cap on tank
also checked oil kind of low so added a quart 05/30 mobil 1 ,,

got car started , idling kind of rough , I can see some white smoke coming out of exhaust " NOT real bad but its there" got inside the car I heard something like a gargling noise coming from dashboard !! also the level of coolant has gone down may be an inch or two in the tank..

what is the proper way of bleeding the system ?

what is the gargling noise coming from dash ?

I got the check engine light on , abs fault also small yellow and red light at button not familiar what those indicate !

guess I might be looking at blown head gasket , this might be a project car now ! gracias--

 

Download a copy of JTIS see the first sticky and go to this web site for repair manuals including electronics. JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource. this will help you a lot with working on your car.

Also get a copy of JEPC to get the apart numbers.

 

I did .. still can't find instructions for on bleeding air out of cooling system ! and that noise it probably related to cooling/heating lines air in them ! its cold today 30s 40s now the car just cranks no start .. also I see no coolant in the tank NOW it was almost to top last night.. before I went to bed

 

Download this workshop manual http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...M-Workshop.pdf.

And do a search in the pdf using the function in the reader.

I found out how to bleed the cooler system there but repair the pipe first.

 

Step back from the ledge! No need to go into FullPanicMode™ yet.

The gurgling noise is perfectly normal when refilling after any loss of coolant. You've got the bad hose fixed now, right?

On my '02 V6, I had the upper radiator hose fail. After replacing that, I never bothered with the factory bleeding method. Somewhere buried in a training manual I found a note stating all that will happen if not bled is you'd get a gurgling noise from the heater core (in the dash) and the heater may be erratic. The air will work itself out of the system within a day or two, and then you'd have to top off the coolant level once or twice. The bleeding procedure is really only mandatory in a shop setting, where you don't want a customer bringing the car back with a complaint about noise and intermittent heater operation. You can still do the bleeding if you'd prefer, but it won't harm anything to skip it.

Hopefully I've caught you before removing the cylinder heads...

Also, please state the model year and engine type of your car. This will help get you the best answers.

 

A little more history on the car, please. You previously mentioned a rough idle. That could be many things, especially a vacuum line for which these cars are notorious.

But now that the car won't start, that's a change in symptoms. My first hunch is something was knocked loose or reconnected improperly when fixing the radiator hose. Can you doublecheck anything in the vicinity before digging the hole any deeper? If the car was previously running (even if roughly) and then suddenly won't run after doing some other work, it's probably something very simple.

 

oh yea hose replaced
that's funny ! I heard that twice now .. I was freaking out yesterday thinking the worst ..
NO I haven't taken any thing off yet .. it got cold last night out in driveway and this morning real cold too.

its a 2005 S-type v6 3.0 auto
bought it from car auction as is: pretty nice body and paint /interior decent I knew it was going to be project .. had it towed to my house at least the key transponder works ! yea

yesterday I went to autozone bought two large quarts of pentofrost sf mixed them with equal water amount - poured all of it into tank took me a while had the bleeding screw off while doing" saw lots of bubbles " anyway place screw back on .. got car started that's when all trouble started AGAIN

this morning I went outhere checked NO COOLANT in the tank !! I'm going to get a code scanner today I will post what I find also I will check may something came loose connections

I have ABS , Check engine light on, performance car disable or something like that .
yellow and red light above the mileage read out.


I just went out here , tried to get it started again JUST CRANKS NO START !
checked voltage on battery 12.3 though that was low I'm charging it again that might be reason why car wont start again

 

A project car from an auto auction? You are a brave soul.

Run, don't walk, to a parts store and get a new, high-quality battery. These cars are VERY sensitive to battery condition. The multiple warning lights and restricted performance are classic symptoms of a marginal battery. You can play around recharging the old one, but in the end you'll probably want to just spring for new. Your call if you want to go through all the intermediate aggravation first.

No guarantee a new battery will clear up those faults, but it is such a basic thing, you don't want to overlook it. Get a good scanner and read out any fault codes. Please post the actual code (Pxxxx). Some scanners automatically translate the code, but those translations aren't always accurate for Jaguar.

Make a list of fault codes before replacing the battery, because that will erase them. Keep in mind many of the codes present could be nuisance messages and require no corrective action, but do keep track and see which ones come back as legitimate faults.

Re: the current no-start condition - With a new (or at least fully charged) battery, it will be time for some basic troubleshooting. Get a pressure tester and check for proper fuel pressure at the injector rail. Test for spark at one of the plugs. Get a noid light and make sure the fuel injectors are getting a signal to open.

Another quick check is at the inertia switch. If that gets tripped, it shuts off the fuel supply for safety, but the starter still works. Open the front left door and you should see a large rubber plug on edge of the door opening, by the edge of the instrument panel. The inertia switch is behind that plug. Push down on the top to reset it.

 

I know ! I took a big chance on this one 5th car I have purchased like that I had good luck on other ones thought.
the battery its charged now 13.4 volts , I know ! I'm getting a NEW battery tomorrow . the car started LOTS of WHITE smoke coming out of exhaust ! no sweet smell thought. just smells bad .. I also have autel AL619 pulled lots of codes (13) and also from misfires to lean . so as I get the new battery I will post them.. I poured coolant
yesterday 2 quarts of pentos frot coolant mixed with water . now tank its low again
what do you think about the white smoke ? bad sign right !

 

Glad to hear you got it started. That's one less problem.

For the coolant level, it can take several days of driving for all the air to work out. Until then, just keep it topped off. The reservoir is fairly small so a minor fluctuation in system quantity can give a misleading indication.

Same goes for the white smoke. If all you're doing is test running in the driveway, that's not enough to clean out the exhaust system. The smoke could be from many possible sources. If the car sat immobile for months, it could be as simple as condensation collected in the muffler. Or maybe it's oil bypassing the piston rings that got stuck from sitting.

Most problems like that can be cleared up by logging a few dozen miles. I've got a '66 Corvair and a '48 Jeep that spend the winter in the garage. They both smoke like a banshee when first started up in the spring, and then run fine after a little drive. Hopefully you've got the same thing going on.

I wouldn't waste too much time worrying about something that may not even be a problem. If still worried about it, get a cooling system pressure tester. It has a hand pump to manually pressurize the cooling system. If there are any leaks, the pressure will drop off quickly.

You could also get a special combustion byproduct tester. It looks a big turkey baster. You draw in air from the cooling system reservoir. The tester contains a special chemical that changes color in the presence of exhaust, meaning you've got a leak from the combustion chamber into the cooling system.

Personally, though, I'd log some miles first and see what happens.

 

the car was probably siting in the tow yard for months , before they sold it on auction !
I'm KEEPING hope alive !!! keeping my fingers crossed you are right..

after I had it idling for a few minutes it was idling kind of rough .. I forgot to mentioned yesterday I checked the engine oil ..thought it was kind of low , so I added a quart
today I checked ,I think its kind of high! could that cause issues too?? I'm thinking about changing the oil to 05/w30 mobil 1 , may not be a bad idea to change it right ! who knows when it was last changed and also I will get new battery tomorrow for sure just checked battery again now its like 12.8 volts .. NO BUENO and also I wll get another quart of PENTOSOFT SF with destilled water to mix.. I'm also gonna look into either cooling system pressure tester or combustion byproduct tester as you mentioned..
I'm learning more and more about these cars ..

many gracias Kr98664-

 

You want the oil level between min & max, preferably not on min.

If the battery has been off or is low then the learned values will/can be lost and idle rough. A good battery is a fix, then let it idle for 5-10 mins so it relearns.

Full "drive cycle" info is in workshop manual (codes PDF) - free download but in most cases (not all) will kinda just happen with regular driving. In case you want to speed things up (maybe need to pass inspection) then follow the drive cycle (which is car & model-dependent).

It's well worth checking the fuel trims once you get a fairly happy car. Lots of posts about those.

 

More details here, courtesy of Gus:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Well, of Steve Perry.

Good but tough for a beginner and not what you can get by with.

 

I'm sorry I might have two dumb question ! where is the signature line? where do I find members control panel ?

 

Pan your screen to absolute top. Look for horizontal black main menu bar.
On far left, click on User CP - this is your control panel and all the options you seek are displayed vertically down once you click.

Cheers,

Ken

 

Uff da! I missed the credit at the end. My apologies to Mr. Perry.

On a different note, jaimster, what is your experience level with OBD II vehicles? I want to make sure we don't overexplain things you may already know. But on the other hand, we don't want to leave out details that would help.

 

my experience : I used obdII autel ms509 , just got AL609 got it cause able to rread ABS,ARS modules also Ive used audi vag.com obdii scanners and diagnostics NOT programming experience and bmw diagnostics INPA , key immobilizer programing ..
I m quick learner thought.

I'm getting a new battery and penfrost st coolant adding it later , possibly changing engine oil too. let u guys know how it goes..

gracias-

 

update : got new battery car pretty much sounds the same , Rough !! erratic idling .. old battery reads 12.6 volts new one 12.6 also . so guess battery still good I'm gonna take the new one back get my money back . also added more coolant ..
had the car idling for few minutes notice: lots of WHITE smoke coming out of exhaust almost vapor like when it stop there was water on the drive way underneath the exhaust pipes . the smell its nasty NOT sweet /syrup like more like burning oil !!

also temperature gauge got to little bit more than half way mark ! FAN DID NOT COME ON AT ALL ! shouldn't be on .. or at what temperature ..

 

Can you give us the codes please.

Then we can start advising you´to what the problems are.