p1000 please refer to vehicle manual
p0171 system too lean bank 1
p0174 " " """"""" 2
p0300 random/multiple misfire detected
p0301 cylinder 1 misfired detected
p0303 " 3 " "
p0305 " 5 " "
p0316 injector circuit / IDM codes detected
p0442 evaporative emission system leak (small leak)
p0456 " " " " (very small leak)

there maybe one more missing now car just cranks no start . maybe also spark plugs need to be replaced

 

Free download - workshop manual - has all those. With all known causes.

Existing posts as well.

Save you a lot of time to refer to it all.

 

If you go to this web site you can check the code, causes and cures to see if there is a common fracture between them all.
P0301 Jaguar Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com.

 

Sadly it gets quite a few codes wrong - whereas the jag stuff gets them right.

 

I'd suggest starting with these codes. Cylinders 1, 3, and 5 are all in the RH bank when looking forward. Or with US spec cars, on the passenger side.

The most likely culprit affecting all cylinders on one side is oil in the spark plug well. All 3 plugs sit in a common well. The fix is to clean out the plug well and replace the valve cover gasket.

While you're in there, replace the spark plugs. Don't bother cleaning them, just replace them. The ignition coils are likely to be damaged from oil, too. Technically you should replace them, but at the very least, swap them with the coils from the other side.

I'm not sure what access is like on later models, but the early models have that big swoopy intake plenum in the way of the RH bank. If yours is like mine, you don't want to pull that twice. That's why I'm suggesting replacing the RH coils, or at least swapping them with known good ones from the other side.

And while I'm on a roll, it's time for my famous MisfireSpeech(tm):

If the computer has set a misfire code, please be aware "misfire" wasn't the best terminology that could have been used. Misfire sounds like an ignition problem, at least to me, meaning the fuel and compression were there, but for whatever reason, the required spark was missing or weak. This might lead an aspiring mechanic to troubleshoot the daylights out of a perfectly good ignition system. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

In OBD-speak, misfire simply means one or more cylinders is putting out low power compared to the others. Pretty much anything affecting the output of a cylinder can set a misfire code. It can be low compression. It can be a valve not opening fully. It could be a clogged fuel injector. And yes, it could be an ignition problem, too, but don't overlook the other possibilities, too.

So let us know how the car behaves with 6 new spark plugs, and with those suspect coils swapped to the other side or replaced.

And for goodness sake, quit panicking. You have very good odds the car will be fine after fixing some common, well-known issues.

 

Jaimster, when I first read you were going to return the new battery, I was ready to say, "I'm done". We are all trying to help you. A marginal battery is a KNOWN pattern failure on these cars. It may not fix the rough running, but it is quite often the cause of messages like parking brake and restricted performance. Just humor us and keep the new battery.

I'm a professional electronics tech and to be honest, I don't fully understand how a marginal battery can cause such grief. I am willing to accept the findings of others, though. It's been proven over and over. There's more to it than just the measured voltage, but that's another story. If a $150 battery breaks your budget resurrecting an auction project car, a Jaguar may not have been a very good choice.

With the smoke, I'll repeat my earlier suggestion. Idling a long-dormant engine in your driveway is not going to help. Take care of the suspect spark plugs and coils causing the misfire codes as mentioned in my previous post. Then take the poor thing for a drive. Put a load on it and work the engine. As long as you don't hear any horrible noises or have a FLASHING check engine light, it's worth a try. The flashing light means the catalytic converters are overheating and getting damaged, so avoid driving like that.

With the radiator fan, one crisis at a time, please. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge and avoid letting the engine get too hot. We can come back to that issue after you investigate and fix the misfire problem.

 

dude ! you're so right ! I tend to assume the worst .. it may also be I'm going through a divorce.. DONT mean to bring personal life.. little bit of my state of mind and also car looks pretty nice .. I'm cant wait to get it running

I'm going to order new spark plugs , intake gaskets I need to remove intake plenum on right side .. and maybe coils at least the 3 on passenger side .. I'm looking at getting all that stuff from ebay may save some money there..

no! no!.. I don't have to return the battery I will keep it if u think it does help .. . I'm keeping the battery

 

Just charge the new battery because I was told by car mechanic that are normally only charged to 80%.

Be very careful when buying parts from ebay because it can be quite expensive in the end. I was sent the wrong parts for my car. They sent me parts. 2002 which will not fit the latter models.

If you buy coils get good ones from a good manufacturer because the cheap ones don't seem to last long.

 

worst fear confirmed !! this morning was checking out many test for blown gaskets on you tube .. I know couldn't stay away from my intuition ..

I remember yesterday when I had car idling had filled up more coolant taken cap off tank . notice lots of bubbles coming out .. this morning I just went out there to check the engine oil suprise suprise.. oil looks pretty milky brown took some oil samples back inside the house drop some oil on a hot plank on my stove .. oil was sizzling just like of the simplest test on u tube , it shows oil has coolant and coolant burns faster and hotter than just oil..

decision time /: what NOW should I try one of those head gasket sealants like " steel seal" like scotty kilmer recommends or should I try it my self removing the heads
I have done timing chains / belts replacements on several cars before or look for an indy shop what will something like this cost around here ??

 

The first thing to do is not start the car again it sounds like the gasket is getting worse and you dont want to risk a hydrologic lock.

The codes indicate that it may be only one head. So the best thing to do is read the manual and go by your own experience if you can repair your self.
If it is only a head gasket you are lucky as they are relatively cheap but if the head is warped, its not the end of the world because it is possible to have it skimmed when it is not too much.

heads for the 3.0 litre engines are not that expensive when you look on eBay.

I would first see what you need to do the job, price it up and consider if it is worth it for you personally.

 

I was just on phone looking at different sources from craigslist here dallas area,tx found a guy he says he's got experience doing this . he quoted me 900 total including parts , he mentioned resurfacing the heads too .. he says hell have the car up and running when he is done with it.. I might have to start the car again to get it inside the garage its parked in the driveway or a definite NOT to try GET IT STARTED AGAIN .??

 

Don't start it. If it fills the cylinders with water you will damage the crankshaft and conrods.

 

Sounds like good news for people who like bad news.

One caveat: I've done the sizzle test and have found the results iffy at best. Before committing yourself to a major job like replacing a head gasket, I'd want to run a cooling system pressure test. I know the bubbles point to a leak, but there's a slim chance that is left over from the lack of bleeding. Same with the murky oil, that could just be nasty old stuff not changed since who knows when, plus condensation from however long it sat.

I agree all current symptoms now point towards a combustion leak into the cooling system, likely from a bad head gasket, but I'd want to be triple sure before pulling a head.

If you've got a guy willing to guarantee the job for $900 total, that sounds like the best option. I don't know how much you'd spend doing it yourself, but you'd have to factor in the machine work, too.

 

yes good idea to do the pressure test first ! I will go to autozone see if I can rent a pressure test tool for it .
. since I'm not working right now I told the guy that I would help him along whatever I can do to get it right .. we talked about heads so I'm assuming will be both cylinder heads , rather have both of them - going through that kind of work might as well right! and yea that includes the machine work - he mentioned hell take the heads out to do surface grinding on them ... and get me the car up and running good

oh yea ! I looked for the job on the FSM workshop for job .. I can't seen to be able do a search on my computer program ??
any body knows around what page I could find the job cylinder heads removal 2005 s-type 3.0 v6

 

please do yourself a favour and down load a free copy of adobe reader dc and install. then press the magnify glass symbol
because you will have to go to different sections for full procedure.

The page 649 tells you how to remove the cylinder heads but that is all.

If you regrind one head then you will have to do the other as you will have different compression.

 

got it thanks a bunch Again ! Ducmon

 

decision time ! I want to take on the job of replacing the cylinder head gaskets .. soon as I remove the heads I will have them inspected . don't think it should too expensive to have a machine shop resurface them. I don't have job right now might as well save some money on this deal, I have been looking at the FSM and its something I feel comfortable taking on . any suggestions will be appreciated .. I will take pictures and post them if possible plan is to start in two weeks

Big Gracias to everybody who has helped on this project..

 

You need specialized tools and procedures in order to get this accomplished and is not recommended for a beginner or even an intermediate DIY'er.

$900 is a steal to get this done, so I would consider letting some one else do this.

 

little bit on my automotive experience : . 1997 z28 , dodge ram 1500, 1995 j30 , 2002 (audi a6 require special tools as cam locking tools, valve set timing tool )
timing belts, water pumps fuel injectors replaced , egr tubes replaced , fuel pumps
I would like to get this done ..

any way of getting list of tools I will need ?
any place where this can rented ? I know I did for my audi job

I can do this! unless the price these tools is just NOt worth the trouble !!

Gracias.

 

Good luck and search the forum for a list of jaguar tools needed to get the tensioners/chains removed.

Also get JTIS and follow all instructions to the letter.