Heater control valve took out a/c module
#2
Sadly, this is very common on 2003+ models.
Details here, in post #2:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/
To repair, replace the valve. Make sure to get a quality name brand, not some knock-off on eBay, etc.
For the control module, get in touch with this guy:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/
He can repair your existing module at a reasonable cost, and that includes an upgrade to prevent future damage.
#5
Agreed with Karl on purchasing a good DCCV. As far as the AC module. Look at the model number on yours, you must get same model number, there are a couple diffetent ones. Although they look the same they won't work correctly!!! Purchase eBay or off Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
Again get same part number as what yours is!
Again get same part number as what yours is!
#7
Some details here:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
Reading between the lines, with a DCCV in good condition, each internal solenoid draws about 0.6 - 0.9 amps. That same current is also flowing through the circuit board inside the control module.
As a DCCV ages, coolant tends to leak internally and short out the solenoid coils. This increases the current flow. Per the example shown at the link above, one side of a defective DCCV was drawing over 6 amps (!), which is way too much for the circuit board to handle.
The 10A fuse for the DCCV also powers the control module, AC clutch coil, and the aux coolant pump (V8 only). This was a huge oversight by the designers, as a damaged DCCV will overload the control module circuit board well before the fuse will blow.
If you send your control module to be repaired, he will add overcurrent protection within the module. I'm not sure of the exact details, but it must be some sort of fuse or auto reset circuit breaker.
This mostly affects 2003+ cars. The earlier models don't seem to have this problem.
I've thought of making a harness extension to fit between the DCCV and the vehicle connector. It would have an inline fuse for each valve, maybe 3 amps or so.
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
Reading between the lines, with a DCCV in good condition, each internal solenoid draws about 0.6 - 0.9 amps. That same current is also flowing through the circuit board inside the control module.
As a DCCV ages, coolant tends to leak internally and short out the solenoid coils. This increases the current flow. Per the example shown at the link above, one side of a defective DCCV was drawing over 6 amps (!), which is way too much for the circuit board to handle.
The 10A fuse for the DCCV also powers the control module, AC clutch coil, and the aux coolant pump (V8 only). This was a huge oversight by the designers, as a damaged DCCV will overload the control module circuit board well before the fuse will blow.
If you send your control module to be repaired, he will add overcurrent protection within the module. I'm not sure of the exact details, but it must be some sort of fuse or auto reset circuit breaker.
This mostly affects 2003+ cars. The earlier models don't seem to have this problem.
I've thought of making a harness extension to fit between the DCCV and the vehicle connector. It would have an inline fuse for each valve, maybe 3 amps or so.
The following 2 users liked this post by kr98664:
Aarcuda (07-16-2019),
S-Type Owner (10-08-2023)
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#10
seems like over current protection is needed. I need to look into this.
Thanks!!
#12
Also found this!!
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
#13
#14
#15
#16
Followup to this thread - fusing the individual coil wires
We just had the coolant valves (shorted) and the control module (blown up) replaced. Second time in 4 years. Has anyone done the fusing for the individual coil wires to save the control module? What value fuses did you use? Did it work?
Alternately, does anyone have details as to what circuit modifications can be made to the control module board?
I am guessing that a 1 amp fuse per line should be good, but as an electronic technician, I am concerned that the reverse EMF generated upon solenoid de-energize might cause nuisance fuse blowing. Doubtful, but I thought I should ask.
I can't afford another $1500 a few years down the road!
Alternately, does anyone have details as to what circuit modifications can be made to the control module board?
I am guessing that a 1 amp fuse per line should be good, but as an electronic technician, I am concerned that the reverse EMF generated upon solenoid de-energize might cause nuisance fuse blowing. Doubtful, but I thought I should ask.
I can't afford another $1500 a few years down the road!
#18
We've talked about it on the forum, but I'm not familiar with anybody actually adding fuses to the harness. Several guys have modified the control module with resettable fuses, or this outfit will modify it for you:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com
Not sure about later models, but on my '02, the DCCV harness is routed above the radiator fan shroud. That would be a fairly easy spot to tap into the existing harness:
If you'd rather put fuses in a more protected spot, I noticed some of the pictures here show DCCV wiring to the left of the instrument panel, behind a panel near the door jamb. You might be able to tap into the harness here instead:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/dia...test-procedure
Normal amp draw for each coil is 600-900ma. I measured 853ma in this picture:
A 1A fuse might be cutting it a little close. You could always try it and if it keeps blowing, step it up a little to 1.5 or 2A. I doubt the reverse EMF is going to be much of a factor.
#19
I had a burned track on module PCBA.
Soldered 2 pieces of wire to both ends of the burned track krimped on two 90 degrees fast-ons and stuck a regular size 1Amp fuse on the fastons.
Quite crude but couldn't find a 1 Amp mini fuse for the fuseholder I bought and wintercold convinced me quick action was needed.
This was 4 months ago, no issues since, knock on wood...
(I did also replace the DCCV and checked wiring in the front)
Soldered 2 pieces of wire to both ends of the burned track krimped on two 90 degrees fast-ons and stuck a regular size 1Amp fuse on the fastons.
Quite crude but couldn't find a 1 Amp mini fuse for the fuseholder I bought and wintercold convinced me quick action was needed.
This was 4 months ago, no issues since, knock on wood...
(I did also replace the DCCV and checked wiring in the front)
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