Mine was running hot all the time.

I didn't do any testing as I'm not working at home just now, I just ordered a new valve and switched it out when I was back and checked / cleaned the sensors at the same time.

 

Sorry, It was Gus that had little heating, 2 posts under the same heading I can't multitask (male problem)

 

Well I pulled the plug on the DCCV and let me tell you it was not easy. At first the temp was 1° to 2° off with the A/C on “Hi”, when it was put on auto @ 85° I began to see a separation in the Driver and Passenger temperature about 5° then I turned off the A/C Auto and the separation was 10°. Question, is the A/C Control Module in operation with the DCCV removed? I see the A/C control module and 6 sensors still in the system with the DCCV removed. All in all I am seeing a 10° difference with or without the DCCV connected. I would change the valve today only the one I purchased a year ago is in storage with the rest of my tools. Could the temp sensors still be in the system and regulating? I will go at it again in the morning.

 

Nope, the temp sensors are immaterial to your issue at this point with the DCCV disconnected and still having the temp difference. The temp sensors are there to provide input so the system knows when it needs to turn the DCCV on or off, and when to change the air direction from floor to face vents, for instance. The ONLY heat regulation is the action of the DCCV; there are no temp blend doors or flaps in the climate case. All the flaps etc. only direct air, they have no bearing on temp.

So right now you need to concentrate on why there is a lower than normal flow of coolant through the matrix, as indicated by the temp loss.

Cheers,

 

Steve,

So for now I will go for the DCCV. It is either that or a flow restriction and that is not what I need to deal with right now. I checked the hoses and most all have been replaced and are presently in good condition and that only leaves the heater core.

If I recall correctly the Lincoln LS DCCV is interchangeable.

 

I honestly don't know about the Lincoln part, but I wouldn't be surprised. Press on with the valve and let us know.

Cheers,

 

Would you like to help? Thanks!

 

I looked into this. I had a small leak on a “T” fitting and replaced it about 4 weeks ago and had coolant added. I checked it and found it a little low so I added to it and opened the bleed valve to get the air out but no Joy. I pulled the plug on the valve and no Joy. I have a new valve ordered and will update when I get it in the car.

 

Here's a tip that works well for me........

Disconnect all the hoses that attach to the DCCV at their other ends. There are two fasteners holding the DCCV, remove the 10mm head bolt, but just loosen the nut a couple of turns. The valve will slide off the stud without removing the nut. Bring ALL the hoses [it's an octopus] out with the valve so they can be changed from old to new out where it's easy to work. Changing them down there in the car is a major pain. It's easier on your V6 than the V8 by far, but still a pain.

Good luck!

 

I was looking at how to approach this and that was the direction I was going towards. Not having all my tools I need to plan ahead. How much coolant drainage should I expect? I do not wish to upset the EPA.

 

SCR** THE EPA!!!

OOPs!, sorry, this is no place to get political, apologies for the slip.

You're going to spill a good bit, even if you utilize the radiator drain nipple. The octopus is going to be full when you take it out as well; you'll make a mess so wear old clothes.

Cheers,

 

and to think it pays more to do the later 03^ DCCV than his. and his is definitly alot harder.. no consistancy for shyt on times we get. Also Gus blow our with compressed air all heater pipes to firwall while you have the lines off, and dont loose the plastic spacers on the pipes or orings. slip then all onto the metal pipes for reassembly not in the hose parts or youll cut orings

 

Where is the engine air bleed located? It is supposed to be at the crossover pipe but I am unable to find it? I found the one for the tank.

 

How important to blow the line out? I can get a compressor but do not have one available right now, it is in storage. From what I can see I can get this all done from the top. Is that a good assumption?

 

I'm interested to see what happens with the new valve, since I'm having some issues with my 2002 S type. Mine is blowing cold air when the car is parked or at stoplights, then warm when moving. I haven't even looked under the hood for anything yet, just starting to search the forum for clues.

 

Gus dont use that bleeder unless you want to relace that upper rad hose assembly too. its the end of the small hose right in front of the reservoir pointed towards the shock mount.
its important to blow out the lines flushing the system doesnt do anything to clean the core if theres no flow. And a stuck closed DCCV leaves stagnant blocked cores all the time. every now and then I forget and have to remove the lines again to blow out and get flow again through the core.
javen you either have a partially blocked core and or aux coolant pump that inop on a V8 but you dont have your car listed V6 and 8 are differant

 

to me that sounds like low coolant?

 

I used a water hose to flush through mine in both directions, it flowed freely so I asumed that all was good.
If that hadn't work I might have had to think again.

 

I do have a hose. I need to talk to my builder and put a rush on the completion of my house.

Thanks!

 

Yep, javenlevi's sounds like low coolant to me also. He needs to have his expansion tank checked for fractures. That's usually what happens with his symptoms.

That's the bleed alright. It gets a turn 90 degrees counter-clockwise to open, then is pops up but stays in the pipe. Brutal has a point about using it, after a while it gets brittle and can break. That means replacing the entire hose/pipe assembly. Problem is, without using the bleed and trying to get coolant in and the air out, you risk overheating the motor in the process. It's a craps-shoot. I'd recommend spraying it with a silicone lubricant and let it set a while. Then gently rock it back and forth a little at a time, a little farther each time until you get the 90 degrees. If it doesn't start moving with reasonable force, don't push it, it's probably going to break.

I'm rootin' for ya!

Cheers,