Heating Problem
#21
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
Posts: 117,649
Received 6,336 Likes
on
5,521 Posts
#23
Well I pulled the plug on the DCCV and let me tell you it was not easy. At first the temp was 1° to 2° off with the A/C on “Hi”, when it was put on auto @ 85° I began to see a separation in the Driver and Passenger temperature about 5° then I turned off the A/C Auto and the separation was 10°. Question, is the A/C Control Module in operation with the DCCV removed? I see the A/C control module and 6 sensors still in the system with the DCCV removed. All in all I am seeing a 10° difference with or without the DCCV connected. I would change the valve today only the one I purchased a year ago is in storage with the rest of my tools. Could the temp sensors still be in the system and regulating? I will go at it again in the morning.
#24
Well I pulled the plug on the DCCV and let me tell you it was not easy. At first the temp was 1° to 2° off with the A/C on “Hi”, when it was put on auto @ 85° I began to see a separation in the Driver and Passenger temperature about 5° then I turned off the A/C Auto and the separation was 10°. Question, is the A/C Control Module in operation with the DCCV removed? I see the A/C control module and 6 sensors still in the system with the DCCV removed. All in all I am seeing a 10° difference with or without the DCCV connected. I would change the valve today only the one I purchased a year ago is in storage with the rest of my tools. Could the temp sensors still be in the system and regulating? I will go at it again in the morning.
So right now you need to concentrate on why there is a lower than normal flow of coolant through the matrix, as indicated by the temp loss.
Cheers,
#25
Steve,
So for now I will go for the DCCV. It is either that or a flow restriction and that is not what I need to deal with right now. I checked the hoses and most all have been replaced and are presently in good condition and that only leaves the heater core.
If I recall correctly the Lincoln LS DCCV is interchangeable.
So for now I will go for the DCCV. It is either that or a flow restriction and that is not what I need to deal with right now. I checked the hoses and most all have been replaced and are presently in good condition and that only leaves the heater core.
If I recall correctly the Lincoln LS DCCV is interchangeable.
#26
Steve,
So for now I will go for the DCCV. It is either that or a flow restriction and that is not what I need to deal with right now. I checked the hoses and most all have been replaced and are presently in good condition and that only leaves the heater core.
If I recall correctly the Lincoln LS DCCV is interchangeable.
So for now I will go for the DCCV. It is either that or a flow restriction and that is not what I need to deal with right now. I checked the hoses and most all have been replaced and are presently in good condition and that only leaves the heater core.
If I recall correctly the Lincoln LS DCCV is interchangeable.
Cheers,
#27
#28
I looked into this. I had a small leak on a “T” fitting and replaced it about 4 weeks ago and had coolant added. I checked it and found it a little low so I added to it and opened the bleed valve to get the air out but no Joy. I pulled the plug on the valve and no Joy. I have a new valve ordered and will update when I get it in the car.
#29
I looked into this. I had a small leak on a “T” fitting and replaced it about 4 weeks ago and had coolant added. I checked it and found it a little low so I added to it and opened the bleed valve to get the air out but no Joy. I pulled the plug on the valve and no Joy. I have a new valve ordered and will update when I get it in the car.
Disconnect all the hoses that attach to the DCCV at their other ends. There are two fasteners holding the DCCV, remove the 10mm head bolt, but just loosen the nut a couple of turns. The valve will slide off the stud without removing the nut. Bring ALL the hoses [it's an octopus] out with the valve so they can be changed from old to new out where it's easy to work. Changing them down there in the car is a major pain. It's easier on your V6 than the V8 by far, but still a pain.
Good luck!
The following users liked this post:
Gus (12-19-2011)
#30
#31
OOPs!, sorry, this is no place to get political, apologies for the slip.
You're going to spill a good bit, even if you utilize the radiator drain nipple. The octopus is going to be full when you take it out as well; you'll make a mess so wear old clothes.
Cheers,
The following users liked this post:
Gus (12-19-2011)
#32
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,193 Likes
on
1,359 Posts
Here's a tip that works well for me........
Disconnect all the hoses that attach to the DCCV at their other ends. There are two fasteners holding the DCCV, remove the 10mm head bolt, but just loosen the nut a couple of turns. The valve will slide off the stud without removing the nut. Bring ALL the hoses [it's an octopus] out with the valve so they can be changed from old to new out where it's easy to work. Changing them down there in the car is a major pain. It's easier on your V6 than the V8 by far, but still a pain.
Good luck!
Disconnect all the hoses that attach to the DCCV at their other ends. There are two fasteners holding the DCCV, remove the 10mm head bolt, but just loosen the nut a couple of turns. The valve will slide off the stud without removing the nut. Bring ALL the hoses [it's an octopus] out with the valve so they can be changed from old to new out where it's easy to work. Changing them down there in the car is a major pain. It's easier on your V6 than the V8 by far, but still a pain.
Good luck!
The following users liked this post:
Gus (12-19-2011)
#33
#34
#35
I'm interested to see what happens with the new valve, since I'm having some issues with my 2002 S type. Mine is blowing cold air when the car is parked or at stoplights, then warm when moving. I haven't even looked under the hood for anything yet, just starting to search the forum for clues.
#36
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,193 Likes
on
1,359 Posts
Gus dont use that bleeder unless you want to relace that upper rad hose assembly too. its the end of the small hose right in front of the reservoir pointed towards the shock mount.
its important to blow out the lines flushing the system doesnt do anything to clean the core if theres no flow. And a stuck closed DCCV leaves stagnant blocked cores all the time. every now and then I forget and have to remove the lines again to blow out and get flow again through the core.
javen you either have a partially blocked core and or aux coolant pump that inop on a V8 but you dont have your car listed V6 and 8 are differant
its important to blow out the lines flushing the system doesnt do anything to clean the core if theres no flow. And a stuck closed DCCV leaves stagnant blocked cores all the time. every now and then I forget and have to remove the lines again to blow out and get flow again through the core.
javen you either have a partially blocked core and or aux coolant pump that inop on a V8 but you dont have your car listed V6 and 8 are differant
The following users liked this post:
Gus (12-19-2011)
#37
to me that sounds like low coolant?
I'm interested to see what happens with the new valve, since I'm having some issues with my 2002 S type. Mine is blowing cold air when the car is parked or at stoplights, then warm when moving. I haven't even looked under the hood for anything yet, just starting to search the forum for clues.
The following users liked this post:
javenlevi (12-20-2011)
#38
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
Posts: 117,649
Received 6,336 Likes
on
5,521 Posts
The following users liked this post:
Gus (12-19-2011)
#39
I do have a hose. I need to talk to my builder and put a rush on the completion of my house.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#40
Yep, javenlevi's sounds like low coolant to me also. He needs to have his expansion tank checked for fractures. That's usually what happens with his symptoms.
That's the bleed alright. It gets a turn 90 degrees counter-clockwise to open, then is pops up but stays in the pipe. Brutal has a point about using it, after a while it gets brittle and can break. That means replacing the entire hose/pipe assembly. Problem is, without using the bleed and trying to get coolant in and the air out, you risk overheating the motor in the process. It's a craps-shoot. I'd recommend spraying it with a silicone lubricant and let it set a while. Then gently rock it back and forth a little at a time, a little farther each time until you get the 90 degrees. If it doesn't start moving with reasonable force, don't push it, it's probably going to break.
I'm rootin' for ya!
Cheers,
That's the bleed alright. It gets a turn 90 degrees counter-clockwise to open, then is pops up but stays in the pipe. Brutal has a point about using it, after a while it gets brittle and can break. That means replacing the entire hose/pipe assembly. Problem is, without using the bleed and trying to get coolant in and the air out, you risk overheating the motor in the process. It's a craps-shoot. I'd recommend spraying it with a silicone lubricant and let it set a while. Then gently rock it back and forth a little at a time, a little farther each time until you get the 90 degrees. If it doesn't start moving with reasonable force, don't push it, it's probably going to break.
I'm rootin' for ya!
Cheers,
The following users liked this post:
Gus (12-19-2011)