Help with 2002 S-Type! Im COLD!
#21
I've got the 2000 4.0. It looks like it is the DCCV, only I can't find the part by this name when looking online other than DIYs. I'm getting warm air on the passenger side and cold or freezing air on the driver's side. Would this be the right part if it is the DCCV? Thanks.
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...365+4294952375
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...365+4294952375
Should be cheaper.
#23
Did a little more fact finding before I just ordered a part. I'm not so sure it is DCCV unless someone can explain it to me. I've heard people say that one side might be hot while the other is cool even if they are both on the same setting. The A/C works just fine. The heat only works on the passenger side upper vents. With all vents on and on HI with the fan maxed out not using auto, the two upper passenger vents are hot. All other vents including the passenger side floor and rear vents are cold. I thought DCCV just did left and right? Would there be another vent valve in the dash somewhere I am missing? I didn't get a chance to actually get to the DCCV and test it as it is dark right now and I'm not looking to get that far into it tonight. Maybe I'm going completely in the wrong direction as I no nothing about climate control systems and I'm still learning, but maybe someone will have a good idea. Thanks.
#24
I don't think you are missing anything. The DCCV is a wear item and I would change it and the thermostat as well as swapping in new correct coolant. Flush the cooling system thoroughly. I am a bit picky about this and flush mine several times and drive around for a day or two with just water to make sure I have removed as much of the old coolant as possible.
I would not waste my time checking the DCCV, just change it. The only other possibility (since you have the old Gen I S Type) is wire harness rubbing of the wires leading to the DCCV. This is not seen in the Gen II (2003 and up) S Type cars. So a check of the electrical plug going to the DCCV to make sure the proper power and signals are getting to the DCCV might be done when changing the DCCV. It has been reported that the wire harness problem is in the bumper cover area where the harness is routed in a bundle.
Now you might have multiple troubles. So change the DCCV and other items first. Your car is old and if the DCCV is not bad now it is most likely failing. Remember the DCCV does not always fail the same way or stay in the same position. You can exercise the valves by running the temperature all the way up to 90 F. and then all the way back down to 60 F. This sends control signals to the DCCV and can sometimes free up the valves. Some people have used this little trick to avoid changing the DCCV. But it will only work for so long.
Yes there are several temperature sensors that can be bad or dirty. Especially the one above the ignition key switch which draws air in from the cabin. If the car has been smoked in this will have some buildup but how much is always unknown. You also have a AUX coolant pump that can cause lack of heat at idle or other low engine speed conditions. Your symptoms do not sound like this but just keep it in mind.
Also a more remote possibility is the bad/failing DCCV will take out the climate control module. This is more likely the longer you drive the car with a bad DCCV. See other threads about this.
But do the easiest and most likely thing first. Then use the car and see how it acts. You have a very common problem that many people have fixed. That is the good part!!
.
.
.
I would not waste my time checking the DCCV, just change it. The only other possibility (since you have the old Gen I S Type) is wire harness rubbing of the wires leading to the DCCV. This is not seen in the Gen II (2003 and up) S Type cars. So a check of the electrical plug going to the DCCV to make sure the proper power and signals are getting to the DCCV might be done when changing the DCCV. It has been reported that the wire harness problem is in the bumper cover area where the harness is routed in a bundle.
Now you might have multiple troubles. So change the DCCV and other items first. Your car is old and if the DCCV is not bad now it is most likely failing. Remember the DCCV does not always fail the same way or stay in the same position. You can exercise the valves by running the temperature all the way up to 90 F. and then all the way back down to 60 F. This sends control signals to the DCCV and can sometimes free up the valves. Some people have used this little trick to avoid changing the DCCV. But it will only work for so long.
Yes there are several temperature sensors that can be bad or dirty. Especially the one above the ignition key switch which draws air in from the cabin. If the car has been smoked in this will have some buildup but how much is always unknown. You also have a AUX coolant pump that can cause lack of heat at idle or other low engine speed conditions. Your symptoms do not sound like this but just keep it in mind.
Also a more remote possibility is the bad/failing DCCV will take out the climate control module. This is more likely the longer you drive the car with a bad DCCV. See other threads about this.
But do the easiest and most likely thing first. Then use the car and see how it acts. You have a very common problem that many people have fixed. That is the good part!!
.
.
.
The following users liked this post:
abonano (11-15-2016)
#27
Well I ordered the DCCV as it looks like the only the passenger side valve is responding. I've set it for next day air so I can fix it this weekend and I'm only out $158. I'll then go from there if I have any remaining issues. After checking it again, auto works perfectly, but as with HI heat setting, only on the pass side vents. Thanks everyone.
#28
Any tips on swapping this thing? I was going to do it today, but I'm finding that it might be easiest to completely drain the coolant and remove the upper radiator hose completely and I should be able to get to it. What coolant do these use factory? I can tell the coolant is clean and has been recently replaced, but it appears to be purple in color.
#29
Purple? Oh. It should be the orange OAT Dexcool-type stuff.
If you're lucky, either someone flushed incredibly thoroughly OR it's the correct type but purple (I understand Ford have one). If unlucky, it'll have reacted badly with the proper coolant and created gunge that's blocking some or lots of the coolant paths. Be afraid
Anyone know how to tell?
If you're lucky, either someone flushed incredibly thoroughly OR it's the correct type but purple (I understand Ford have one). If unlucky, it'll have reacted badly with the proper coolant and created gunge that's blocking some or lots of the coolant paths. Be afraid
Anyone know how to tell?
#30
I'll just completely drain and flush it then. That actually would make it easier for me as I always keep Dex-cool around since my other car is a GTO. I thought it was Dex-cool when I first looked in the coolant resevoir, but I drained a bit to check it out and it looks like it had a tinge of purple. Makes me think someone topped off with the Ford stuff once. I know Dex-cool has a tendency to make sludge when mixed with others.
#31
#37
Do you have the V6 or V8? The V8 has an auxiliary coolant pump that improves heater performance at low RPM. If inop, that could cause your symptoms.
On my '02 V6, if the.coolant level drops, the heater stops working at low RPM. Rev it up and all is good. So maybe right off the bat, check your coolant level, regardless of which engine you have.
LOTS more details here, specifically posts #2 and #6 for your situation:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PlatinumJag
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
20
10-02-2020 03:23 PM
Dicque
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade or Buy Classifieds
2
09-19-2015 01:53 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)