!Help! 2003 Jaguar S type boiling coolant back through expansion tank!!
#1
!Help! 2003 Jaguar S type boiling coolant back through expansion tank!!
Looking for help on a 2003 Jaguar S type v-8 not supercharged. Ok so Ive been working at this for a couple weekends now trying to help a family member out and can’t seem to make any headway. What’s happening is coolant is boiling back up and out the expansion tank and coming out the lid. The car is not over heating ( at least that’s what the gauge says) and the hose coming back out of the radiator to the thermost at is warm. The radiator is new only probably 6 months old and it was not boiling out after that was put in, this just started out of know where. While the car was running and boiling I felt across the radiator and it was boiling hot at the inlet and about half way across gets really cold. I did pull the radiator out and ran water through it and it went through it with no problems. The expansion tank has been replaced and I also have tried the new cap it came with and the old cap from the old expansion tank. The thermostat and housing was replaced not long ago, I even took the thermostat out completely to make sure it was not the cause of the problem still no luck. The water pump had a small leak at a bolt so I replaced the water pump with a new one as well still same problem. So I went ahead and did a pressure test on the system and it held something around 14psi for at least 5 min and couldn’t see any leaks anywhere. I then did a block test to test for combustion in radiator it also came back ok. The fan seems to be kicking on when it should I’m running out of ideas on what it could be, Heater is on when I burp the air out of system and gets hot so I don’t think anything there is the issue.
Sorry for the long post I think I put everything in here that I did, please any help would be awesome thank you...
Sorry for the long post I think I put everything in here that I did, please any help would be awesome thank you...
#2
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Don B (05-05-2018)
#3
It’s possible there is something blocking or slowing the flow in the block, the old water pump I pulled looked fine nothing missing was just a small leak, they did tell me that they had mixed antifreeze colors and I know there’s a possiblity of gelling but haven’t seen any signs of it, also they said they added stop leak at one point to so that’s still in my head. I do plan on trying to flush the system once I get everything back together but was trying to go through each piece again. When I replaced the thermostat I bought the whole housing as well, I do not have the thermostat in the housing right now cause I wanted to make sure that was not the issue still same result. I have had the car idling for 30 min or more wth the cap off and I can see coolant flowing in the expansion tank heater blows hot and no boiling, put the cap on take it for a quick drive and come back park with the car still idling and the water begins or is boiling and starts pushing back out the cap.
#4
It’s possible there is something blocking or slowing the flow in the block, the old water pump I pulled looked fine nothing missing was just a small leak, they did tell me that they had mixed antifreeze colors and I know there’s a possiblity of gelling but haven’t seen any signs of it, also they said they added stop leak at one point to so that’s still in my head. I do plan on trying to flush the system once I get everything back together but was trying to go through each piece again. When I replaced the thermostat I bought the whole housing as well, I do not have the thermostat in the housing right now cause I wanted to make sure that was not the issue still same result. I have had the car idling for 30 min or more wth the cap off and I can see coolant flowing in the expansion tank heater blows hot and no boiling, put the cap on take it for a quick drive and come back park with the car still idling and the water begins or is boiling and starts pushing back out the cap.
It is possible to buy a brand new and duff thermostat.
#5
That stuff is not good. Even as a temporary fix its better recovering the vehicle and not running it. My V6 DCCV valve was clogged up with it and it gets everywhere in the cooling system. Its like some kind of grey vermiculite and it expands with heat.
It is possible to buy a brand new and duff thermostat.
It is possible to buy a brand new and duff thermostat.
#6
#7
ya it’s a scary thing, I’m going to pull the dccv and aux water pump this weekend and all the hoses just to make sure everything is clear. Just wonder if it’s slight blockage through the block from that stuff. I’m still wondering about the radiator being really cold on one side as well, I understand how a radiators work and it is on the outlet side but seems to cold radiator guy said it sounds like it’s working so just wondering, Water flows through it great with the hose in it in the yard, pretty much as fast as it would go inAnd like I said it’s probably 6 months old but probably not the best quality radiator.
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#8
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...3/#post1693028
Can't guarantee a new thermostat is your fix, but this isn't like older vehicles that would run cooler without one. You need a thermostat installed. Before installing one, test it for accuracy. Here's my tale of work when the existing one failed, followed by a replacement that wasn't much better:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...rature-186873/
Here's another recent thread of a replacement bad from stock:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...estion-198446/
Both threads above have a link to details of the deliberately misleading dash gauge. Make sure to read up on that, too.
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Don B (05-05-2018)
#9
The S-type thermostat operates differently than the typical style. If removed, virtually all coolant will bypass the radiator, meaning no cooling will occur. A long-winded explanation in post #41 in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...3/#post1693028
Can't guarantee a new thermostat is your fix, but this isn't like older vehicles that would run cooler without one. You need a thermostat installed. Before installing one, test it for accuracy. Here's my tale of work when the existing one failed, followed by a replacement that wasn't much better:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...rature-186873/
Here's another recent thread of a replacement bad from stock:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...estion-198446/
Both threads above have a link to details of the deliberately misleading dash gauge. Make sure to read up on that, too.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...3/#post1693028
Can't guarantee a new thermostat is your fix, but this isn't like older vehicles that would run cooler without one. You need a thermostat installed. Before installing one, test it for accuracy. Here's my tale of work when the existing one failed, followed by a replacement that wasn't much better:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...rature-186873/
Here's another recent thread of a replacement bad from stock:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...estion-198446/
Both threads above have a link to details of the deliberately misleading dash gauge. Make sure to read up on that, too.
thank you
#10
Awesome thanks for sharing those threads that makes sense, wonder if the the thermostat that was in there was just starting to fail. I can only hope it will be that easy. I’m going to put everything back together Friday and I’m also going to check aux pump and dccv just to make sure they aren’t partially plugged or something as well as all the hoses. I’m planning on doing a system flush as well soon as I get it back together, and I’ll put a new thermostat in and give it a try. Any other thoughts or ideas are welcome please keep them coming.
thank you
#11
#12
yes I have tried 2 caps, if I leave the cap off from start up I can see fluid circulating and as the car heats up can see lots of steam coming out, and it will want to boil over after a while hot, I’m putting a new expansion tank on this afternoon cause I just broke the bleed screw. I just had it running for about an hour and that small hose from the top of thermostat to top of expansion tank starts rumbling like it’s boiling and fan starts to kick on so I loosened the bleed screw had a lot of steam and a little fluid and seemed like everything calmed down when I relived it,
#13
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Did you follow the correct procedure for bleeding the system as that appears to be the problem. Refer to the Workshop Manual for the correct method.
I personally have never had luck with using anything but an OE thermostat. The ones from the parts houses seem to cause the engine to run hotter than it should.
Use an application such as Torque Pro through the OBD port to determine the system coolant temperature. The gauge on the instrument cluster does not change its indication between 85C and 129C, which is a serious problem.
I personally have never had luck with using anything but an OE thermostat. The ones from the parts houses seem to cause the engine to run hotter than it should.
Use an application such as Torque Pro through the OBD port to determine the system coolant temperature. The gauge on the instrument cluster does not change its indication between 85C and 129C, which is a serious problem.
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Don B (05-05-2018)
#14
Also note I had a hard time getting my infrared thermometer to give a precise value for the coolant. I think the fan blows too much heat from the radiator onto the front of the engine. Under different scenarios, my scanner was showing a wide range of internal temperatures, but my infrared thermometer kept showing a fairly constant value on the external hoses. I think heat blown back from the radiator was the culprit.
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