Wow Brutal, just reading this topic and I plan on changing the oil in the next week so. Should I put the 1 qt of auto Tranny atf to the oil and after about 100 miles remove the existing oil, do the flush you talk about on the topic and then put the new oil back in going with the 20 50? Up north so do have the cold seasons, use the 20 50? Thanks

 

I will give this a try. One other question please. When you first start the car there is a loud tapping sound, but when the temp gets up to normal it goes away. Could this also be the oil? or oil preasue ??

 

Thank You Brutal, I used 20 w 60 full racing oil by MOTUL and now my car is perfect I used 1 quart of tranny fluid like you said and just waited about 3 days later the car was perfect
Thank you so much for your help
Peche

 

Hi Guys,
I am a new member not a new Jaguar owner been a fan since I watched D Type,s being tested on the Flechemsted Hwy.
Any way I have a similar problem, Code P1385 would an engine flush be a good start?
Cheers,
xbrit.

 

Which engine and year?

Also... P1385? Not the P1386 of this thread?

 

2001 V8
cheers

 

and the code?

Put your car details in your profile to save everyone the hassle of keeping on asking.

 

Hey, my first post!
I've been sandbagging for a while, until I summed up enough courage to participate.

Peche3, was your engine running rough when the code P1386 appeared?
I am experiencing the same code but the closest dealer is over 5 hours away from me so I have nowhere to turn for advice. The local mechanics are seemingly clueless without the proper equipment to interpret these codes and have cost me big time chaing this code down to the source problem.

I have replaced all the plugs and coils, found a shirt in a wire and still my car runs rough at idle for about the first 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, it is very smooth although it sometimes hesitates slightly when I step on it hard.

With just a few months of Jaguar ownership, I am new this cars nuances and really appreciate any help this forum can bring. I in turn, will "pay it forward" as I gain more knowledge of these wonderful vehicle.

 

Next thing is to put your car details in your profile

Engine size, year (and if 2002/3 then whether it's the original or redesign), gearbox type (auto/manual).

And mention the mileage in your post.

Are you using premium fuel? Wrong octane is always bad news.

 

I swear that my car info is already noted in my profile.
2000 Jaguar S-type 3.0 automatic with 146,500km(91,500 Miles)

Always use premium fuel.

I am (this weekend) going to flush and change oil to 20w50 along with adding the tranny fluid as recommended earlier in this post.

If that doesn't work, I will may have my local mechanic focus on the vvt solenoid valve as per this item I found...
Turn ignition off. Disconnect left Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoid harness connector.
Measure resistance between VVT solenoid terminals. If resistance is 5-20 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is not 5-20 ohms, replace VVT solenoid and retest system.
Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and VVT Solenoid harness connector Green/White wire. If voltage is more than 10 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 10 volts or less, repair power supply circuit and retest system.
Disconnect PCM harness connectors. Check continuity of White/Pink wire between VVT solenoid harness connector and PCM harness connector PI-1 terminal. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in White/Pink wire and retest system.
Check continuity between ground and VVT solenoid harness connector White/Pink wire. If continuity exists, repair short to ground and retest system. If continuity does not exist, replace PCM and retest system.

 

That was probably Brutal's recommendation. He knows these motors well.

 

comeon, even though you did have to put your car info in your profile, it won't show up in your signature line, unless you do it yourself.

When the members have 50+ new threads a day, the more interesting (and easier) ones are often the ones that get the most attention. If the car model year, engine size, and tranny are not perfectly obvious (as s-types have the most variety it seems) those threads will get less replies. I see jagV8 do this all the time, moreso than I do in fact, but all that shows me is that he cares to at least take the time to ask for more info than just close the window and move onto another thread.

g'luck w/ your car.

 

Matt feeling alittle punchy today? Have a cup of coffee on me buddy



"We" couldn't agree more with this statement!

 

Hi how are you I basically had the same simtoms it was a rought shaking a tthe stop lights and it would even out a little while accelarating but it felt bad and had me really worried i tryed this and after the the engine flush and the oil change with 20w 60 racing oil and the trans fluid i removed the battery a few times and about 50 miles of driving the car was back to normal and the warning light was off

 

When I bought my S Type I had some issues the first one was to get the heater working which turned out to be a stuck water control valve. After persuading my local mechanic saying it was similar to a 4.0lt Lincon he performed the task of replacing it. Now when he had the vehicle on the hoist he noticed a wire that had become disconnected, when he reconnected the wire and tested the heater which now works the P1386 code went away. There is no engine check light on now, he did not say if he cleared the code status or not. It runs much better now.
PS.. the S Type is of a high mileage 145K last 100K at Jaguar main agent.

 

Just a quick follow up to my P1386 code...

After having changed my oil, including the quart of Ttansmission fluid, I ended up still having to replace the vvt solenoid.

It's all good now.

 

I did the oil change with the engine flush and the Trans fluid. Still having both codes Left & right banks over retarded.
Could both vvt's be bad ?? Or could it be a bad computer ?
Please advise.
Thanks
Jamie

 

Realistically you can count the PCM out (they're SO reliable). Yes it could easily be both VVTs.

 

Greetings! This is my first non-introductory post.

I have a 2000 S-type 3.0 which is displaying 1386 and 1388 codes.
I am taking it to a mechanic tomorrow (British-American Auto Care in Columbia, MD - feedback welcomed). I mentioned an engine flush and he said they don't do them, and normally would not recommend them. I will have them do some diagnostics and see what they come back with, but I would also like to try to flush/tranny fluid path.

Where is the best place to get flush products? I saw that Brutal mentioned MOC - what is this? The local auto places only have Gunk, which does not seem like a true flush. I even tried a local speed shop, but no luck.

Thanks in advance!
Tony

 

I think Brutal mentioned adding a litre (quart) ATF 500 miles before an oil change but Search to make sure

You've checked these are not false codes due to old software (in PCM)?