I recently bought a 2000 3.0l S type knowing it wanted an engine.I have since took on the mammoth job of replacing the engine but now its allmost all back together the engine will not turn over.The crank is solid and will not turn although it was fine before i attached the auto transmission and starter,any advice before i start looking at removing the starter and autobox again,many thanks!

 

Welcome to the forum neilandt,

I've moved your post from General Tech Help section to the S-Type section where you'll get advice from members with the same model.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST section and post an intro about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice on posting to the forum.

Graham

 

I have not have the need to dissmantle our 3ltr just yet.

I have had many auto transmissions out over the years.

However the good description you have provided also leads me to:

1) Starter motor has jammed the ring gear, no idea why at the moment
2) Torgue convertor drive dog not fully engaged prior to installing, and subsequent tightening of the convertor bolts has jammed the works, and hopefully NOT damaged the convertor.
3) Convertor bolts are sitting proud of the flex plate, and jamming on the engine block.

Did it rotate at all. even a 1/2" or so, once mated to the trans, or was that the deciding factor, bolted the trans on, engine jammed???.

I would be removing the starter first, usually easier than a trans, and has to be removed for trans out anyways.

 

Thanks for your reply, I'll take the starter off tomorrow and see what happens , I think it will be something with the tranny though , the engine turned fine whilst the transmission was loose , then I tightened it up and refit the starter , that's when i noticed the engine would not turn.

 

Hello again,well i have removed the starter and that wasnt the problem,i slackened off the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine and the crank now turns,i wondered what your thoughts on that are?

 

JTIS procedure for refitting auto transmission begins:

The torque converter must remain at the correct installation depth throughout the whole installation procedure.

The torque converter hub must engage fully in the oil pump drive gear.

Check the installation depth between the transmission flange and the torque converter centering spigot for the correct clearance.



Any chance the torque converter is locking when you do the bolts up?

Graham

 

Hello Graham,
Thanks for your reply,yes the torque convertor locks up when the bolts are tightened up,im doing this job outside in the cold and wet on my back so im getting a little fed up! Will the tranny need to come off again?

 

Neil,

You haven't got the minimum 10 posts required to be able to download PDF's from the forum so I've put the JTIS transmission refitting procedure on my MediaFire account for you.

You can download it by following this link:

JTIS - S TYPE Transmission Installation 44 20 01.pdf

It covers both 3.0 and 4.0 litre models. The procedure is slightly different for the two as detailed in the text.

Sounds like an alignment issue. You should be able to undo it, align it properly and offer the transmission back up to the engine again without having to completely remove it.

Been there myself before with XJ6's. Don't envy you the job in this weather, especially if you're doing it alone.

Good luck.

Graham

 

Many thanks Graham for all your help and the link,i shall take a look at it now,i have just been under the car again and when i tighten up the transmission to the block it looks as though the flywheel is pressing up against the block thus causing the crank not to turn and when you slacken the bolts off again it becomes free,if this is the problem then i have no idea how i have got to that situation.Is there any chance the flywheel could be bolted on the wrong way? i hope not as i would feel an idiot!

 

Here's the Engine Backing Plate and Flywheel installation section:

Install the engine rear backing plate.



The flywheel will only locate in one position.
Install the flywheel.
Prevent the engine from rotating.
Tighten the retaining bolts working diagonally.



Things often look very different when you're hanging upside down beneath the car!



The flywheel appeards to have a definite "dish" in the centre which should be facing you when looking towards the rear of the engine.

Graham

 

Well i think i was rather hoping that the flywheel was fitted wrong but ive just checked and it is correct but the rain has set in now here so i will have to abandon the job for today and see what tomorrow brings.It looks like its off with the prop again and removal of the transmission.I cannot understand why the flywheel pulls up against the block though when i tighten the transmission bolts,no doubt things will be clearer with the transmission removed.I shall report back when the weather picks up!

 

You can also tow her to a shop and let them fit the trans.

 

No way , that's admitting defeat!

 

Well that's the transmission off again but everything looks as it should, torque convertor seems fine , flywheel correct , any advice please!?

 

There's three automatic transmissions listed for the 3.0 litre depending on VIN:

1. to L31320
2. from L313221 to L86901
3. from L86902

There's also a change of torque converter on the 3.0 litre at VIN M45254.

The 4.0 litre has an adaptor plate between torque convertor and flywheel which is not listed for the 3.0 litre.

Appears to be scope for mismatch here. Are you certain the replacement engine is correct for the transmission / torque converter combination?

Graham

 

Thanks once again for your help.
The engine was from a jag specialist who ensured it was the right one, I will double check with him though. Looking at the torque convertor compared to the diagrams it seems that it is not fully back into the housing although I don't know how it could have moved . I cannot seem to see way if pushing it back though so it's not as proud, any ideas on that please? I cannot seem to find any info on what the clearance from the centre spigot to edge of housing should be either .

 

Neil, I understand you don't want to be defeated...on the ground. You'll succeed with this swap whilst she is on a lift.

 

I've gone through the JTIS sections on this transmission and the measurement from spigot to housing is mentioned as critical but not actually given!



The procedure refers to "special tools 307-091" for installing the torque converter.



These look to be little more than screw in handles to facilitate manipulating the torque convertor.

Several references are made to "the torque converter hub must engage fully in the oil pump drive gear". Does rotating the torque converter as it's placed in the housing allow it to engage with the oil pump drive and go further into the housing?

Graham

 

I've managed to free the tc and have now reseated it and it seems to have gone approx 5ml further back and now the back of the tc is nearly touching the housing so I cannot see it going back any more , I've got the transmission back on the jacks to refit so I shall report back soon hopefully with good news !

 

Well that's it for another day, fading light and enthusiasm !
The box is part bolted to the engine, just struggling a bit lining up the tc bolts to the flywheel. Roll on Wednesday!