I'm ready to order parts for changing all the coils on my 2000 3.0. I want to make sure I order everything upfront so I don't get stuck having to order more part in the middle of the repair.

Obviously, I'm going order 6 new coils and spark plugs. Are there gaskets or anything else that I should order as well?

In addition, I was reading the JTIS manual on the replacing the coils. It states for the right hand bank to remove the intake manifold (which then states to drain the coolant and remove the throttle body). I know the JTIS sometimes goes overboard on the prodcedures. I read that people were changing the coils in a matter of hours so removing the intake manifold seems like it might not be required.

So can someone please provide the quick and easy procedure on the changing coils?

Thank you!

 

See my New Member post. Inlet manifold removal essential and can take ages if things don't go your way! See FactoryJaguarTech post:
Intake Manifold Removal:

Disconnect the battery ground cable. I assume that actually means EARTH

Disconnect the EGR vacuum regulator (EVR) valve electrical connector.

Disconnect the vacuum hose connector from the EGR vacuum regulator valve.

Disconnect the IMT Valve connectors.

Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor electrical connector.

Disconnect the hoses from the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor.

Disconnect the inlet and outlet intake manifold coolant hoses, making note of the routing for reassembly. (You do not want to hook them up backwards) Now he tells me!

Detach the EGR valve.

Remove the intake manifold bracket securing bolts - 1 on front, 1 on right side.

Remove the intake manifold securing bolts noting location. At very back, 2 of the 8mm bolts are holding down a round metal bracket. Once removed throw that metal bracket in the garbage. It serves no purpose other than to chafe your wiring harness. Thanks, after removing it I remain puzzled as to what useful purpose it ever served!

Disconnect the engine breather hose,

Remove the intake manifold and dsicard gaskets. Replace with new.

THIS BIT YOU CAN IGNORE Next, remove the 4 bolts securing lower manifold to engine. Remove the 10mm bolt at front of engine holding the fuel line secure. Lift lower fuel rail manifold up and move to the side. Replace these gaskets also. You can now see the lower breather hose (fat L shape). Cut carefully with razor blade to remove. Lube new hose using suitable silicone spray and install. Also replace the hose above that one and the 90 degree that is above that.

While you are there, if the 3 ignition coils under the intake are green or yellow labels, you may want to replace them with new black label coils. Sucks to have to go back in there. Guess what colour mine are - GREEN

Reinstall is reverse of removal. Do not overtighten the bolts.

 

Thanks! I ordered the coils, plugs, and upper intake manifold gaskets so I'm all set for next weekend. I'm also going to be changing the dual climate control valve and coolant expansion tank.

 

make sure to mark the hoses for the coolant control valve specially if never done one before

 

Ah Heater Control Valve. That was on my to-do list as well, but I've chickened out for now.
This S-Type is the first car I've meddled with that doesn't have a rotor arm and distributor cap so there are lots of standard parts I don't recognise. One of them is the hose connections on that valve.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yUsYryxbyH8iN24jr8EM8w?feat=embedwebsite"><i mg src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_p2hFMH4eKzw/SXMxrDBPsmI/AAAAAAAAAfo/yErsmw9Swgo/s144/IMG_2154-1.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/robert.cosic/JaguarSTypeHeaterValve?feat=embedwebsite">Jagua r S-Type Heater Valve</a></td></tr></table>

It looks like one of those things that click together easily but.........how do they come apart? If it were more accessible I could envisage two screwdrivers to spring back the collar, but given its location?? Do I need to make up some kind of fork to spring it apart? Anyone know the demnsions of the slot I need to cut?

 

Ah that didn't work!
try looking here

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

 

Once again, PLEASE DO NOT THROW THE CRASH BRACKET AWAY!!!!!!!!!!! This bracket mounted at the rear of the manifold is there to protect the fuel rail in case of a front end collision. If someone actually paid attention to what they were doing they would see that this bracket is surrounding the fuel rail pressure sensor with heavy duty reinforced steel. Without this bracket a front end collision will cause a large FIRE that will kill you and any small children in a horrible inferno so that the only way to identify the bodies is through dental records. Get the picture!!!

PUT THE F*CKING BRACKET BACK WHERE IT WAS!!!

 

This is a bit of a rant, but why couldn't Jaguar design the intake manifold to allow access to both side ignition coils without having to remove it? The 4.0 and 4.2 V8 intake manifold allows access to the ignition coils and spark plugs without a whole lot of effort, so why design the V6 engines to be so difficult? When I had my two XJ6s, it took me about 10-15 minutes to replace spark plugs. Ignition coils for the 96 could be replaced in about 5 minutes per. However, to be fair, they were around $300 a pop, unlike the $60 per the 3.0 V6.

Rant off:

Mike

 

The design responsibilty for the V6 is on Ford. When developing the car(s), the V8 was done by Jag and the V6 was done by Ford. If you look under the hood of a Lincoln LS V6 you'll see that they are almost identical. Due to the higher price point of the Jag, the 3.0 in the S got variable valve timing and some other upgrades. Yet these aren't clones. While the main castings are the same, there are many unique parts that come from Jaguars supply chain vs Fords. That is why, despite the almost identical design, most of the replacement parts are not interchangeable.

 

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the update. Now I'll ping on Ford. It seems so long ago that you could actually work on your car with relative ease. I had a 1970 Datson 240Z which was a snap to work on for user level maintenance. If you had strong enough hands, you could remove the oil filter without a wrench. As mentioned in my earlier message the XJ6s were also fairly easy to work on.

Mike

 

I also miss working on my 1974 Datsun 260Z (except for trying to sync the twin Hitachi carburetors). But we all know that today's vehicles are far more computerized and are designed to frustrate the typical owner into taking it to the dealership for service for even the slightest problem. In this economy, dealers will have to rely on even more profit margins from service as opposed to sales....

I still enjoy working on my 1999 Dodge Ram 5.9-litre V8 1500-series pickup. Open the hood and you have plenty of room to get to all of the components - they aren't crammed in there like today's cars where you can't even get a wrench to what you need to work on, much less your hands. Sadly, I know that I'll never own another vehicle as easy to work on as my Ram is. And in the 8-plus years I've had it, my Ram has needed less work than any other vehicle I've ever owned in my nearly 40 years of driving. A catalytic converter replaced under warranty, a new serpentine belt which I put in last August, and a new water pump which I put in last November. Other than oil and filter changes, one new set of tires, and one new set of spark plugs, that's all it has ever needed. Admittedly, it only has 54,500 miles on the odometer....

 

Hi Jon,

I felt your pain dicking with the Hitachis I swear they were the Japanese revenge for losing WW2.

I have a neighbor with a Dodge Ram pickup (not sure of year), but he stands up in the engine compartment when working on it

Mike

 

Sorry to hi-jack, but I need to replace cylinder4 coil on my v8, same year. Where the hell do I access this coil? I have never done work on this motor myself. Thanks.