After I was rear ended in the Jag on the freeway I cat was totalled. In shopping for a replacement I ended up with a 05 S-type 4.2 VDP. She is in great shape with low miles (68k). I have had it for a couple weeks now and every once in a while I thought I would notice a little strange shifting here and there but nothing i could really put my finger on. Not even really sure it was actually shifting strange, but maybe a little paranoid. Other than that she was tip top.

Tonight however suddenly she bagan running rough at idle and a couple times did show a what felt like a shifting problem but cant be sure. The check engine light came on and stayed on. The rough Idle smooths out after she has ran for a bit and while I can feel something going on with the vehicle I cant notice a huge difference in performance. When I got home I used the Instrament cluster to see the codes and decoded them, they are as follows, some I could find and some I dont:

On cluster decoded
9318 B1318 Low battery voltage
E200 U2200 Invalid data for Odometer
E197 U2197 Invalid data for Vehicle Speed
A879 B2879 Telematics/Overhead Console Button Stuck Failure

I just took it for a drive and made sure to get on it a little bit and I do feel some thing not quite right but I dont think its the tansmission as it seems to shift strong. I suspect its the battery becuause the car sat idle at the dealer for over 200 days before i bought it. also, on my drive this evening the batt voltage started at 14.3 but with all the lights on heater, heated seats etc. it dipped to 13.7 volts.

Anybody got any input here?

 

Get an OBD tool (so cheap it's not worth failing to have one) and read the PCM (engine) codes.

Probably just change the battery but you appear to have read it with engine running rather than say its low point 1st thing in the morning so you've just checked the alternator not the battery.

 

+1 on OBD tool - but sounds like your on the right track suspecting the battery.

 

I think you are on the right track. Replace the battery and then see if anything comes back.

Just a suggestion but you are at a perfect time and mileage to get the transmission fluid changed. Before you do there are several special things the ZF 6 speed requires. Look on this forum for good instructions and where to get the parts for a decent price.
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Pan and Filter complete: $102 (was $80)


21 Pan screws: $22 (C2C6726 x 21 screws = 1.05 x 21)
Jaguar Parts - Direct JPLV Porsche Parts.com

Connector sleeve: $7.50 (C2C9645)
Jaguar Parts - Direct JPLV Porsche Parts.com

8 quarts Mercon SP: $48 ($6 x 8 quarts)
Motorcraft MERCON SP - Transmission Fluid | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Knowing the work was done right by someone who cared about the car, you: Priceless

 

OBDII tool is a good idea, I seem to remember a sticky in the S-type section all about them and which ones are good and which are not. I will go back and re-read and buy one today.

JagV8, thats a great point you make about that is the alternator's voltage vs the battery if its running so I will check it again when the engine is off and see what it looks like. Although, with the voltage getting down to 13.7 when the engine is running and driving down the road, could my alternator also need attention? I thought the alternator was supposed to consistantly crank out 14.3-14.5 volts?

Clubairth, Yes I had just finished all the research on our transmissions and had the fluid changed just a few weeks before my car was wrecked, it did make a big difference. but with those prices that Heima sent I think I will need to do this one myself.

 

Ok so I picked up the Innova 3130c code scanner. It supports enhanced DTCs which is overkill since The jag does not use ehanced, but oh well.

So i ran a check of the codes and they were nothing related to what was coming up on the ETM displays. Going to have to see if there is a way to clear those codes as well so as to not get that confused again. Now here are the codes that came from the PCM. I have only recently began deep diving into issues like this and while it is much fun and satisfies my ADD brain, I am not sure what i am looking at here so i have attached the freeze frame data below. Let me know what you guys think.

P0300......Random Misfire detected
P0301......Cyl. 1 misfire detected
P0303......Cyl. 3 misfire detected
P0305......Cyl. 5 misfire detected
P1316......Misfire rate exceeds Emissions
P1111......System pass


Freeze frame Data
Results DTC for which Freeze Frame was StoredP0300Fuel System 1 StatusClosed LoopFuel System 2 StatusClosed LoopCalculated LOAD Value38.82 %Engine Coolant Temp190.40 °FShort Term Fuel Trim - Bank 14.69 %Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1-3.91 %Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 20.00 %Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2-3.91 %Fuel Rail Pressure54.82425 psiIntake Manifold Absolute Pressure20.13 inHgEngine RPM2,022.25 rpmVehicle Speed Sensor31.69 mphIgnition Timing Advance #1 Cylinder34.00 °Intake Air Temperature82.40 °FAir Flow Rate Mass Air Flow Sensor4.78 lb/minAbsolute Throttle Position14.51 %
Results DTC for which Freeze Frame was StoredP0300Fuel System 1 StatusClosed LoopFuel System 2 StatusClosed LoopCalculated LOAD Value38.82 %Engine Coolant Temp190.40 °FShort Term Fuel Trim - Bank 14.69 %Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1-3.91 %Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 20.00 %Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2-3.91 %Fuel Rail Pressure54.82425 psiIntake Manifold Absolute Pressure20.13 inHgEngine RPM2,022.25 rpmVehicle Speed Sensor31.69 mphIgnition Timing Advance #1 Cylinder34.00 °Intake Air Temperature82.40 °FAir Flow Rate Mass Air Flow Sensor4.78 lb/minAbsolute Throttle Position14.51 %
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored
P0300

Fuel System 1 Status
Closed Loop

Fuel System 2 Status
Closed Loop

Calculated LOAD Value
38.82 %

Engine Coolant Temp
190.40 °F

Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1
4.69 %

Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1
-3.91 %

Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2
0.00 %

Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2
-3.91 %

Fuel Rail Pressure
54.82425 psi

Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure
20.13 inHg

Engine RPM
2,022.25 rpm

Vehicle Speed Sensor
31.69 mph

Ignition Timing Advance #1 Cylinder
34.00 °

Intake Air Temperature
82.40 °F

Air Flow Rate Mass Air Flow Sensor
4.78 lb/min

Absolute Throttle Position
14.51 %

 

Unseasonably hot day in Bellevue, is it not? 82 degrees?

I take it your freeze frame data was a snapshot while driving, accelerating infact, or going up an incline?

Can you take a snapshot at just idling?

 

Cyls 1,3,5 are all on the same bank. Check fuel trims at idle...

It's not really overkill unless it also reads all the other modules.

 

Jagv8, are cyl. 1,3,5 on passenger side (U.S.)?

 

They're all bank 1 which is RH so yes. The Vehicle Specs PDF in stickies has pictures for all the cars and variants.

 

The misfire was a brief event and in fact, by the time I got home to to scan tool it had stopped and was running like nothing ever happened. I pulled the codes and freeze frame and wiped codes. Today it did it again twice and then just like that it was gone.

Tomorrow I am going to check the coils. My suspect is that i need to do the IMT-O rings, cam cover gasket and plugs. Perhaps coil pack while i am at it.

Althogh, I am kicking around the possibility of it being electrical. Perhaps a ground wire getting wet? Where that theory falls aprt for me is that i would think that if I had a ground wire getting wet I would see more symptoms, and at the very least, the misfire would be longer duration if not more servere.

 

Can't see why water on a ground would matter. I think it's another problem than that.

 

JagV8,
Do you think it is more likely that its the IMT-o rings/cam gasket and coils? Or were you thinking something totally different?

 

The 4.2 does not have IMT O-rings, only the 3.0s do.

I would pull the spark plugs and look down the sparkplug wells for oil. There would be oil on the COP boots as well.

 

^ what he said (could be water if not oil)

 

Cant you check alternator by disconnecting the positive cable from the battery after you start the car?

Then the vehicle is running on pure alternator, which is what cars should rely on anyway after its started, battery is just for starting only. The whole system runs off the alternator voltage while running, the generator inside the alternator, charges the battery while driving also.

Then you can maybe do some tests while running to diagnose, without the battery providing saved voltage to the mix.

On any other vehicle I have worked on, if alternator was bad, once I started vehicle, if I disconnected the positive, it would stall, thats because the alternator wasnt providing enough voltage to run system, eg. coils, computers, guages etc. Hence some of the errors your getting.

I you drive too much with bad alternator, the dependency for voltage starts to fall on the battery as well, constantly drawing it down to get its running voltage, which can lead to battery failure as well.

Not sure if Jag is any different , but makes sense to me.

 

I would not do that! If the battery is required you could fry the many modules.

 

I dont see how disconnecting battery could fry any modules. I battery is to start the car, thats it. The car is grounded in many areas also. I have never heard of this happening ever. A bad , dying , or dead battery would be frying modules all over the world...I do not believe this is true at all. Any body else have an opinion?

 

You are assuming the alternator can drive the car, which we know is not true, and that it will not go over voltage if there is no battery, which it may do. Why would anyone risk it unless certain?