Hi, so I need a car and have an opportunity to fix a 2003 S-type V6 3.0L Jag. I originally was looking to buy a cheap used car, but my sister said if I want to fix this car I can have it. Now my problem is trying to figure out what exactly is wrong with the car, how much it will cost to fix it, and will this be a better investment than buying another used car for cheap (all I need/can afford) which will potentially come with its own problems.

So here is what the current problems with the car are:

1. The engine light is on, and the car shakes when in park. When lightly accelerating the shaking abates, but there seems to be ranges of rpm's where the shaking picks back up. If I accelerate too hard, usually surpassing 3,000 rpms, the car stops accelerating even though the engine sounds like it is accelerating normally, and the restricted performance light pops up. If I ease up on the gas just a little, I can then accelerate more, and after a little bit the restricted performance light turns off. The same thing usually happens after 35 mph, but if I accelerate very slowly it seems like i can get up there with no problems.

2. The coolant reservoir tank is leaking out of the hose on the top. This causes the low coolant light to come on after driving for a bit, and I must constantly refill it with antifreeze. I was curious if this could be causing the issues in #1, possibly due to the leak breaking the vacuum seal in the tube and not enough fluid getting in? I already ordered a new reservoir and will replace it as soon as it comes in, hopefully next week.

3. About 6 months ago the car wouldn't start and it was brought to the dealer. They got it started, and I don't have the report on me about what they fixed (will get it from my dad asap), but it didn't seem to have any problems. However, the car was barely driven in the 6th months since it was brought to the dealer so we didn't notice these problems.

4. Before we sucked it up and brought it to the dealer, we tried a local shop, who didn't really seem to know how to work on a Jag. However their report claimed they read these codes: check engine po1647 po 755 upstream o2 sensors. We declined to have them fix it, as the car was still running at the time, and when we brought it to the dealer they only focused on getting it started, so I believe they did not know about or fix the o2 sensors.

5. Lastly, the A/C doesn't work and the vent on the left side of the driver seat constantly blows out hot air.

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to try and include everything I knew so far. I only need the car for driving very short distances in town, and if I can get it into good shape for less than $1,000 I think it would be worth it. If anyone can help me it would be very very appreciated.

 

I should probably have said, but the car has 114k miles on it.

 

Also, after doing more research today i learned that the code po755 means a Shift Solenoid B Malfunction. It says the symptoms of this could be not properly shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. I do not know that much about cars, but could the experience i described in #1 be caused by improper shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear?

 

Sounds like a nightmare. How valuable is your time? #2 won't fix #1 at all, they are separate issues. It sounds like the transmission is slipping badly in #1, start with checking the fluid level and go from there; but with the accompanying trouble code and known problems with these vehicles, I would be prepared to replace the transmission. The shaking is probably a vacuum leak or misfire, but without having it checked out thoroughly it is hard to say. With the coolant going low all the time its possible the engine was overheated and the head gasket has blown. The A/C not working could be one of many things; start by checking the high and low side pressures and see if the compressor is kicking on or even getting power. The DCCV is also a known problem, it could be another reason why the A/C doesn't work. If a vent is blowing at all times during any setting, then the mode door or an actuator behind the dash is stuck open. $1k will very likely not even scratch the surface unless you can do all the work yourself and have a good source on parts.

 

Thank you very much for the response, been looking stuff up all day and waiting for someone to respond lol.

Hmm, well you have given me some great places to start. I will have to think about what you said though, because unfortunately I don't have much time to spend working on this car with school. It may be worth it if I can get away without having to replace the transmission, but if the costs will exceed $1,000 i'm not sure it would be worth it.

I really just need the car to drive to and from the train station (about 2 miles each) 4 days a week, plus sometimes errands in town. If I can get it in the bare minimum of shape to accomplish that it would be worth it, otherwise ill have to buy something used, and I only have about $1,700 to spend so it might end up having its fair share of problems too. If I do put money into fixing it, couldn't it pay off by being able to eventually sell it for some of the cost? Or at what point, if not already there, does it become a lost cause?

 

The tranny problems may be caused by the engine especially if there is a vacuum leak.


If you go on the cheap, you might have a couple of hundred in engine parts ie... plugs, IMT O-rings, all vacuum lines and I would go as far as lower intake seals and plenum seals. Don't forget the fuel filter as well.


I would do more reading here in the S Type "How To" section for more details on getting the job(s) done. DIY is not as bad as people would lead you to believe!

 

I think I may try and do a lot of these things first and see what problems I can confirm. I have always wanted to learn about cars anyway, and might as well do it now if it will end with me getting a working jag. Unfortunately free time is not something I have right now with school.

 

Shaking etc may well be one or more air leaks and they'll cause real trouble plus can annoy the trans so it then throws false errors.

Cheap OBD tool like elm327 will let you read codes but also fuel trims. With warmed-up engine, parked, look at idle & 2500rpm.

Keep an eye on the MIL - if it ever flashes then you have very bad misfires, damaging the cat(s).

 

I own the same model with similar milage and, originally, similar problems. Can I strongly suggest that this is not the car to learn on. Over the past years I have located and repaired two vacuum leaks and a dodgy MAF which has fixed the engine idle and 'Restricted Performance'. I have replaced the DCCV and resoldered the burnt strip in the CCM. This only highlighted a leaking A/C Compressor (my next job).

I did a full service, replacing IMT O-rings, oil pressure sender, fuel and air filter in addition to all the normal fluids and filters. I have a slight oil leak that is likely to be the pan seal (I hope).

I have replaced the transmission fluid, sleeve and pan.

I have replaced the battery and installed and CTek conditioner / charger.

I have replaced the rear suspension tie rod ends and have lots more suspension knocks to be identified and repaired. My CATS shock absorbers are weaping oil and will require replacing soon (lots of $$$).

To date I have spend over $1500 in parts (and specialist tools including clone Mongoose cable) and $0 in labour. At present I'm still not 100% trusting of the car and travel with a full tool kit and two laptops even for the 10 mile drive to work.

If you're still keen, get the JTIS, learn how to use it and make friends with the guys here... Everyone is willing to assist, very knowledgeable and experienced. I came into the frame with a sound mechanical knowledge and many years experience... But boy am I still learning!!!

The goal is that you will get to drive a vehicle that looks and drives better than just about anything else, turns heads and you get to tell everyone that you drive a Jaaaag!!

 

jotoro, I do not know where you are located in NJ, but fellow member George Androulakis (forum name androulakis) is very knowledgeable about these vehicles and has a shop somewhere in NJ. He is an honest and straight forward guy, I would reach out to him.


If you put say $1,500.00 into your new to you S Type, you would come out a winner in the long run!

 

Thank you everyone for the help so far, it is really making this easier to work out. I will come back with more information when I get it.

Also, joycesjag thanks for the suggestion, I looked up his shop and he is a little less than an hour away from me, so I will try and reach out to him.