HID Kit.
#1
#2
My right hand HID low-beam stopped working couple of days ago. So I swamped the igniters and nothing happened. Then I tried to do the same with the bulbs and nothing again... So not only am I frustrated, but now neither side will work... How do I know if it is the bulb, the igniter or the ballast?
JG
JG
#4
Take care,
George
#5
#6
Worth the trouble, absolutely, the lighting is night and day compared to the old halogens. I just got done putting another DDM kit in my 500sl, but there is no way to make the foglight hid on that car.
I have the 35w setup, but the 55w is just a bit bigger ballast, that's all. My ballasts are on the ABS controller on the driver side, and by the strut tower on the drivers side. The bulbs clipped right in. You have to drill the back of the headlight cover to get that rubber grommet with the wires in there, but other than that its really easy. there is enough room once you take the plastic piece that covers the headlights off so you don't have to take the headlights off.
George
#7
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#8
Sad part is, brutal posted a fix of sticking a bolt in them that may have cost .50 cents a side at most at any hardware store.
#9
Installed the DDM HID's last week. They work great. Had a little trouble with the %$(..ing bulb retaining clip. I needed to take some of the aggressiveness out of it with a pair of vice grips, but I finally got it in and the bulbs are nice and tight and bright. I'm ready to try this to the fogs next. Anyone try upgrading to HID for the fogs?
#10
Installed the DDM HID's last week. They work great. Had a little trouble with the %$(..ing bulb retaining clip. I needed to take some of the aggressiveness out of it with a pair of vice grips, but I finally got it in and the bulbs are nice and tight and bright. I'm ready to try this to the fogs next. Anyone try upgrading to HID for the fogs?
My Jag has 6000k in this pic - both head and fogs. My brother's suburban has 12k headlights, 3k yellow fogs.
George
#11
Installed the DDM HID's last week. They work great. Had a little trouble with the %$(..ing bulb retaining clip. I needed to take some of the aggressiveness out of it with a pair of vice grips, but I finally got it in and the bulbs are nice and tight and bright. I'm ready to try this to the fogs next. Anyone try upgrading to HID for the fogs?
Last edited by jag79; 10-31-2010 at 10:28 AM.
#12
By the way I learned the hard way thinking they were H3 bulbs for the fog lights but in fact they are H1 for the STR's
#13
George where did you place the slim ballast for the S type down behind the fog lights or did you run up from the engine compartment down to the fog lights? I don't want to get the ballast wet so Im debating where to put them in a safe spot. I was thinking putting velcro strips behind the ballast and attaching it somewhere behind the fog lights assembly on the corner walls
By the way I learned the hard way thinking they were H3 bulbs for the fog lights but in fact they are H1 for the STR's
By the way I learned the hard way thinking they were H3 bulbs for the fog lights but in fact they are H1 for the STR's
It depends on the year R I thought, but as long as you have the right bulbs for your car, there is plenty of room for the ballasts. Oh and don't use velcro. It's not up to the task of keeping them there. Between the heat cold cycles and the vibration from driving over bumps etc, it will come apart. Get some good zip ties and call it a day.
George
#14
I didn't use the slim ballasts, I have the full size ones. I prefer them because the slim ones tend to get a bit hot. SO... That being said, mine are zip tied to the inner bumper supports. Once you have the front of the belly pan off, you'll see two metal bars that the bumper inner structure attaches to. I needed to thread two zip ties together to accomplish this, but they work fine.
It depends on the year R I thought, but as long as you have the right bulbs for your car, there is plenty of room for the ballasts. Oh and don't use velcro. It's not up to the task of keeping them there. Between the heat cold cycles and the vibration from driving over bumps etc, it will come apart. Get some good zip ties and call it a day.
George
It depends on the year R I thought, but as long as you have the right bulbs for your car, there is plenty of room for the ballasts. Oh and don't use velcro. It's not up to the task of keeping them there. Between the heat cold cycles and the vibration from driving over bumps etc, it will come apart. Get some good zip ties and call it a day.
George
Thanks George for the advice on the placements of the ballast. Are you talking about the Apexcone Raptor HiD kit? http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Ap...Raptor-HID-Kit
Thats the only full size ballast I see other than the Slim ballast I kinda visualize what you are saying about zip tie the ballast to the two metal bars that the bumper inner structure attaches to(any chance you have a pic of it? ). Only thing confuses me is the part of threading 2 zip ties together?
Last edited by jag79; 10-31-2010 at 11:16 AM.
#15
Thanks George for the advice on the placements of the ballast. Are you talking about the Apexcone Raptor HiD kit? http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Ap...Raptor-HID-Kit
Thats the only full size ballast I see other than the Slim ballast I kinda visualize what you are saying about zip tie the ballast to the two metal bars that the bumper inner structure attaches to. Only thing confuses me is the part of threading 2 zip ties together?
Thats the only full size ballast I see other than the Slim ballast I kinda visualize what you are saying about zip tie the ballast to the two metal bars that the bumper inner structure attaches to. Only thing confuses me is the part of threading 2 zip ties together?
As far as threading two zip ties together. - Basically I didn't have a zip tie long enough to go around the ballast and the metal bar, so I used an old trick. Take two zip ties, put the male end into the female end of the other. - Instead of looping the zip tie around. Then loop the second one around, and tighten both. Gives you extra length and strength isn't compromised.
George
#16
I guess they would be the equivalent. At the time a year ago when I ordered them, there were DDM full size and slim kits.
As far as threading two zip ties together. - Basically I didn't have a zip tie long enough to go around the ballast and the metal bar, so I used an old trick. Take two zip ties, put the male end into the female end of the other. - Instead of looping the zip tie around. Then loop the second one around, and tighten both. Gives you extra length and strength isn't compromised.
George
As far as threading two zip ties together. - Basically I didn't have a zip tie long enough to go around the ballast and the metal bar, so I used an old trick. Take two zip ties, put the male end into the female end of the other. - Instead of looping the zip tie around. Then loop the second one around, and tighten both. Gives you extra length and strength isn't compromised.
George
Last edited by jag79; 10-31-2010 at 11:56 AM.
#17
#18
Aahhhhhh, ok I got it now You basically made a bigger size zip tie to go around the metal bar. Also you got me little thinking about the small ballast getting hot, I might cut out a small card board piece putting it between the zip tie and ballast, so that the ballast wont melt or weaken the zip tie but then again there is a possibility of it catching on fire
My reasoning for not feeling the slimmer ballasts is that when you put electronics in a smaller casing heat builds and potentially shortens their life. It wasn't about dangerous heat to the outside. Plus, the "slim' kits have an external igniter box on them, where it's all built in to a regular sized ballast.
George
#19
Uh yeah... No need for cardboard. The ballast would burst into flames before it got hot enough to melt or compromise a zip tie.
My reasoning for not feeling the slimmer ballasts is that when you put electronics in a smaller casing heat builds and potentially shortens their life. It wasn't about dangerous heat to the outside. Plus, the "slim' kits have an external igniter box on them, where it's all built in to a regular sized ballast.
George
My reasoning for not feeling the slimmer ballasts is that when you put electronics in a smaller casing heat builds and potentially shortens their life. It wasn't about dangerous heat to the outside. Plus, the "slim' kits have an external igniter box on them, where it's all built in to a regular sized ballast.
George
#20
George